Tailgate close button not working - Page 3

wookiest · Jul 24th, 2015, 18:01

I have a semi-similar issue with my 2009 V70. I had to take apart the tailgate interior panels to repair the tailgate handle. When I re-assembled the panels, I found that the close door button no longer worked.

However, I discovered that if I unplug the grey license plate lighting connector (just to the left/driver side of the wiper motor) and plug it back in again, it causes what sounds like a cycling of tailgate door lock, and magically the close door button starts working again. Problem is that when I attempt to re-assemble the panels again, the close door button once again stops working. Also of note, the power tailgate lift stops working at the same time.

With the tailgate off, I've tried jiggling the wiring harness in the various locations which might come into contact with the tailgate panels to see if this is the cause, but stop button works fine.

I'm hoping that someone has some ideas for me to investigate.

pierremcalpine · Jul 24th, 2015, 19:05

Very interesting...

Well, as you've seen in my previous posts I did end up caving and went to the dealership for help. When I brought it in to them the button did not work. However, I had mucked around prior to bringing it in and my findings were similar to yours: I had taken the side paneling out and removed the POT module altogether and when I plugged it back in and put everything back together, the dumb close button started working for a period of time. Anyhow the dealer suspected it had something to do with the way in which the mechanism is grounded. He explained that the motor, the dome light and the hatch lock all share the same ground (I was also having some issues with my dome light burning out so I think they were on to something). Their suggestion was to 1) replace the motor and see if that made any different, 2) replace the pinch strip along one side (mine was loose), and if 1 then 2 did not work then to 3) replace the lock actuator motor.

I took their advice on #1 and got a new POT, put it in and had them load up the software. When I got home, the button still did not work. HOWEVER, I then hooked up VIDA and tried to open the hatch using VIDA (or maybe I tried closing it, can't remember). Anyhow, that's when I heard the same noise that I think you described (the click). After that it started working and has worked fine since. In and around that same time I had unplugged the lock actuator motor and sprayed some electric circuit cleaner on the plug-in connectors...not sure if that helped or not.

So, I still suspect a shady ground connection which I believe is routed through the lock motor itself. If my symptoms come back, I may look to switch that out as well. Not cheap all in all.

Not sure if any of the above helps.

EDIT: just re-read the entire thread. I think that "Volvo for ever" provided all the background on the ground connection, not the dealership. Thanks goes to "Volvo for ever" as I think he was correct in the end.

wookiest · Jul 24th, 2015, 22:14

Thanks for the suggestions. If the Vida Vice unit did the trick for you, that sounds like the easiest place to start. Unfortunately, I only have the VIDA software and not the VIDA VICE hardware. I do have a generic AutoLink car computer, so I'll see if I can achieve the same ends with it. I'll post back after I have an update.

Kevin

pierremcalpine · Jul 25th, 2015, 15:08

There may be a member nearby who could hook you up. Lots of members with Dice in the V40 forum for instance.

wookiest · Sep 15th, 2015, 19:36

I wasn't able to locate anyone with a VICE unit near where I live, so went ahead an ordered a VICE unit from China. It finally arrived last week and it took a little bit of tweaking to get it working properly with VIDA.

I navigated to the power-operated tailgate module (POT) in VIDA diagnostics and it's reporting that the tailgate handle is "jammed in the open position". I wasn't able to access the VIDA "activations" tab to manually open/close the tailgate, presumably because of this error. I was however able to access activations in other modules (e.g. pop-open the fuel door and turn on the seat heaters).

This problem started when I replaced a rusty hinge pin in the tailgate door handle. So, I'll need to investigate further why the door sensor is reporting incorrectly. I won't have time to dig into this for another couple of weeks, but I'll report back my results when I do.

RogerTo · Feb 7th, 2016, 00:41

Hi
I've a sticking tailgate handle (leading to being unable to open the tailgate without pushing the handle forwards again - won't even open with the keyfob) with a badly corroded hinge pin, was thinking about replacing the pin, but having read these posts I was wondering if anyone could give advice about how to do this without banjaxing the close button.

Cheers

wreck42321 · Dec 19th, 2018, 16:20

Had same problem. Qucik fix. Behind the internal trim you will see the lock at the bottom and to the left a few inchs higher there is a winding mechanism that pulls a cable that releases the locking claw.
Simply unscrew the three screws . Pull it out and disconnect the cable. Pull said cable. Its open....
Now i simply refitted the winder without the cable attached.
Fixed!....

Not sure what the winder is therefore though. But hey...

Jul 24th, 2015, 19:05	#22
pierremcalpine Premier Member Last Online: Jan 3rd, 2024 14:43 Join Date: Feb 2012 Location: Toronto Canada	Very interesting... Well, as you've seen in my previous posts I did end up caving and went to the dealership for help. When I brought it in to them the button did not work. However, I had mucked around prior to bringing it in and my findings were similar to yours: I had taken the side paneling out and removed the POT module altogether and when I plugged it back in and put everything back together, the dumb close button started working for a period of time. Anyhow the dealer suspected it had something to do with the way in which the mechanism is grounded. He explained that the motor, the dome light and the hatch lock all share the same ground (I was also having some issues with my dome light burning out so I think they were on to something). Their suggestion was to 1) replace the motor and see if that made any different, 2) replace the pinch strip along one side (mine was loose), and if 1 then 2 did not work then to 3) replace the lock actuator motor. I took their advice on #1 and got a new POT, put it in and had them load up the software. When I got home, the button still did not work. HOWEVER, I then hooked up VIDA and tried to open the hatch using VIDA (or maybe I tried closing it, can't remember). Anyhow, that's when I heard the same noise that I think you described (the click). After that it started working and has worked fine since. In and around that same time I had unplugged the lock actuator motor and sprayed some electric circuit cleaner on the plug-in connectors...not sure if that helped or not. So, I still suspect a shady ground connection which I believe is routed through the lock motor itself. If my symptoms come back, I may look to switch that out as well. Not cheap all in all. Not sure if any of the above helps. EDIT: just re-read the entire thread. I think that "Volvo for ever" provided all the background on the ground connection, not the dealership. Thanks goes to "Volvo for ever" as I think he was correct in the end. __________________ 2003 V40 1.9T B4204T4, 197,000miles (sold but alive!), 2004 S60 2.5T, 160,000miles, 2010 V70 3.2, 125,000miles, 2002 V70XC 2.4, 175,000miles Click here for my x40 and V70 P3 repair guides Last edited by pierremcalpine; Jul 24th, 2015 at 21:13.

Jul 25th, 2015, 15:08	#24
pierremcalpine Premier Member Last Online: Jan 3rd, 2024 14:43 Join Date: Feb 2012 Location: Toronto Canada	There may be a member nearby who could hook you up. Lots of members with Dice in the V40 forum for instance. __________________ 2003 V40 1.9T B4204T4, 197,000miles (sold but alive!), 2004 S60 2.5T, 160,000miles, 2010 V70 3.2, 125,000miles, 2002 V70XC 2.4, 175,000miles Click here for my x40 and V70 P3 repair guides

Feb 7th, 2016, 00:41	#26
RogerTo Junior Member Last Online: Oct 27th, 2023 00:40 Join Date: Jan 2015 Location: Central Scotland	Hi I've a sticking tailgate handle (leading to being unable to open the tailgate without pushing the handle forwards again - won't even open with the keyfob) with a badly corroded hinge pin, was thinking about replacing the pin, but having read these posts I was wondering if anyone could give advice about how to do this without banjaxing the close button. Cheers __________________ XC70 D5 SE Sport 2008

Dec 19th, 2018, 16:20	#27
wreck42321 New Member Last Online: Dec 22nd, 2018 17:47 Join Date: Aug 2018 Location: Anglesey	powered tailgate xc70 will not open Had same problem. Qucik fix. Behind the internal trim you will see the lock at the bottom and to the left a few inchs higher there is a winding mechanism that pulls a cable that releases the locking claw. Simply unscrew the three screws . Pull it out and disconnect the cable. Pull said cable. Its open.... Now i simply refitted the winder without the cable attached. Fixed!.... Not sure what the winder is therefore though. But hey... Last edited by wreck42321; Dec 19th, 2018 at 16:22.

Jul 24th, 2015, 18:01	#21
wookiest New Member Last Online: Sep 15th, 2015 19:36 Join Date: Jul 2015 Location: Waterloo	I have a semi-similar issue with my 2009 V70. I had to take apart the tailgate interior panels to repair the tailgate handle. When I re-assembled the panels, I found that the close door button no longer worked. However, I discovered that if I unplug the grey license plate lighting connector (just to the left/driver side of the wiper motor) and plug it back in again, it causes what sounds like a cycling of tailgate door lock, and magically the close door button starts working again. Problem is that when I attempt to re-assemble the panels again, the close door button once again stops working. Also of note, the power tailgate lift stops working at the same time. With the tailgate off, I've tried jiggling the wiring harness in the various locations which might come into contact with the tailgate panels to see if this is the cause, but stop button works fine. I'm hoping that someone has some ideas for me to investigate.

Jul 24th, 2015, 22:14	#23
wookiest New Member Last Online: Sep 15th, 2015 19:36 Join Date: Jul 2015 Location: Waterloo	Thanks for the suggestions. If the Vida Vice unit did the trick for you, that sounds like the easiest place to start. Unfortunately, I only have the VIDA software and not the VIDA VICE hardware. I do have a generic AutoLink car computer, so I'll see if I can achieve the same ends with it. I'll post back after I have an update. Kevin

Sep 15th, 2015, 19:36	#25
wookiest New Member Last Online: Sep 15th, 2015 19:36 Join Date: Jul 2015 Location: Waterloo	I wasn't able to locate anyone with a VICE unit near where I live, so went ahead an ordered a VICE unit from China. It finally arrived last week and it took a little bit of tweaking to get it working properly with VIDA. I navigated to the power-operated tailgate module (POT) in VIDA diagnostics and it's reporting that the tailgate handle is "jammed in the open position". I wasn't able to access the VIDA "activations" tab to manually open/close the tailgate, presumably because of this error. I was however able to access activations in other modules (e.g. pop-open the fuel door and turn on the seat heaters). This problem started when I replaced a rusty hinge pin in the tailgate door handle. So, I'll need to investigate further why the door sensor is reporting incorrectly. I won't have time to dig into this for another couple of weeks, but I'll report back my results when I do.

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