Engine 850: B5234T/2.3/20v/T5: What to look for? should I?

Hi all,

New in town and looking for help already

i`m hoping to join the volvo club, and have seen a volvo 850 2.3T5 saloon, 1995N with 129k on the dials.

maybe swapping for my vectra SRI 1998R, but not looked at the car yet. he wants £950 just for car, or deal with mine. upon lookin at the car, is there anything i should check for??

i know the standard stuff, oil,water, electrics(working), and new parts like radiator(poss problems), turbo smoke on lift off ect..

but wondered if you tek heads could point anything else out, as it seems cheap i think!!

read through alot of threads here so far, and seems to more knolledge than i could shake a stick at over several months, so if you could share a little i`d be a happy camper!!

cheers in advance all

[ShadeTek]

Have a look at the steering rack gators and see if they are leaking. If they are, look at a few hundred quid to sort out.

[Jod T5]

hi goose....
here is a full buyers guide for t5 models....
Volvo 850 and 70 series T5, T5R, 850R and R (Up until 2002) Buyers Guide
This guide is intended for use as a base reference source only, you should
conduct usual car checks/inspections for general roadworthiness and perform a
HPI to confirm legibility.

850 and 70 series overview
A little bit about how the 854/855 came to be, and later on the updated v/s/c70
series.

Models & Technical Specifications
850 T5 (1993 – 1996)
850 T5-R estate and saloon (circa 1995 - 1996)
850 R estate and saloon (circa 1996 - 1997), only model to feature an LSD
S/V70 T5 (1996 - 2001)
C70 T5 (1997 - 2002)
S70R - FWD only (1997 – 2001)
V70R - which came in FWD and AWD versions (1997 – 2001)

Model, Engine code, Turbo, BHP
850 T5 1994-1995 - B5234T 225hp/B5234T5 240hp - 15G - conic outlet from turbine
850 T5 1996 - B5234T 225hp/B5234T5 240hp - 15G straight outlet from turbine
850R man - B5234T4 - 16T straight outlet from turbine - 250hp
S/V/C70 T5 1997-1998 - B5234T3 - 16T straight outlet from turbine - 240hp
S/V/C70 T5 1999-2000 - B5234T3 - 16T angled outlet from turbine - 240hp
S/V70R man FWD/AWD 1997-1998 - B5234T4 - 18T straight outlet from turbine –
250hp
V70R auto AWD 1999 - B5234RT - 18T angled outlet form turbine - 250hp
V70R auto AWD 2000 - B5244RT - 19T angled outlet form turbine - 265hp

Suspension
Suspension design remained the same on all models except for the rear struts. As
Volvos are renowned as being load luggers, Volvo introduced a ‘Self Leveling’
(Nivomats) system for the rear suspension, which aids in carrying heavy loads
and/or towing. They are most commonly found on estates, but not all estates have
them, they have also been found on saloons, but very rarely. The ‘R’s are lower
than a stock T5 by about 30mm.

Brakes
There are two disc sizes available for the 850/70 series cars. Up until 1998,
all front discs were 280mm, later models used a 302mm disc, members generally
upgrade to the 302mm disc as it offers better braking performance. The change
from the 280mm you will need larger carriers and longer brake hoses (might as
well go braided), and of course the larger disc. Caliper and pads remain the
same. Of course there are upgraded discs and pads available.

Alloys
850 T5 - Columba
850 T5-R - Titan
850 R - Volan
C70 T5 - Canisto OR BBS Split Rim OR Comet
S/V70 T5 - Perfo
S/V70R - Comet

850R & T5-R Specs
Rs should have lower suspension, the R lip front splitter, 17inch rims and the
trade mark 1/2 leather 1/2 suede interior. 850Rs (1996-97) have the suede on the
inserts and leather on the bolsters of the seat. There should be electric memory
seats on both driver and front passenger. 850 T5-Rs (1995-96) have it the other
way around - leather inserts and suede bolsters. They should all have climate
control and CD multichangers. There are a few that dont but generally they all
have very high specs.

70 series ‘R’ Specs
The ‘R’ spec is all about the trim, the toys and the styling tweaks (e.g alloys,
internal trim, front splitter). Just as a starting point make sure the car has R
wheels (comets = 5 spoke) an R front bumper which is basically a lip on the
bottom of the bumper. The R seats have a slightly patterned alcantara in the
middle and leather on the sides. The dash has aluminium inserts plus the dials
are blue. It should have both front electric seats along with heated front &
rear seats.

Buyers Guide

Introduction

This guide shows the key points that you should be aware of when looking over a
T5/R, if any of these points fail in your inspection/test drive, they are a very
good bargaining point, but bare in mind that they could prove to be very
expensive to fix later on in your ownership.

FSH
A high mileage Volvo is nothing to worry about, these engines if looked after
and are well maintained can go on for 200k+ miles without any major problems.
The service book should be stamped and up to date and performed every 10k miles
by either a reputable Volvo Specialist or Volvo Dealers. However, do not be put
off with cars that have been personally looked after by their owners, these cars
are often looked after at a higher standard than with the Dealer networks, they
will have folders full of receipts and spreadsheets of the parts that have been
changed.

Dash warning lights
Check that all the warning lights that should be on when the ignition is first turned on work. It is not unknown for unscrupulous persons to remove the bulb from warning lights such as the Lambda light to mask an expensive fault. Compare with the user manual - it will tell you what to look for.
Check for ABS/TRACS light coming on when driving. Probably dry joints in the ABS ECU,which can be repaired via a forum member.


Aircon/Climate Control
Ensure that the air conditioning is functioning as it should. If it isn't it could just be it needs re-gassing but there are other more expensive reasons why it may not get as cold as it should. Check the aircon compressor cuts in and stays in. If it short cycles gas is low. Could be a condenser (approx £100) as they are prone to holing. If it is the evaporator it is a full dash out which will cost approx £500.

Heated Seats
There was a recall on the heated seats effecting 1996 models. If appropriate, ask if the Heated Seats recall has been actioned, this is FOC action by Volvo dealer so it should have been. If the owner plays dumb it might be a bargaining point. Remember it won't cost you anything to get it done if it hasn't been actioned.

Checking the oil
When checking the oil via the dipstick, do not be alarmed if you see creamy gunk at the end of it, it is a trait of most T5 engines to have some condensation inside, this can be easily confused with a head gasket failure, they can look very similar. If the car has been used frequently for short journeys then no doubt you will see creamy gunk when you check the oil dipstick. Check the oil
filler cap for signs of ‘baileys’, if you see it here then suspect either a head gasket failure or a split in the radiator/oil cooler. Make sure the oil level is correct.

PCV System
When the PCV system becomes blocked it leads to an increase in crankcase pressure, this can be seen when the engine is running, take the dipstick out, if you see smoke puffing out then this system will need to be replaced, if it isn’t it will eventually lead to a rear main oil seal failure.

RMS, Clutch & Oil Leaks
Rear main oil seal is a weakness due to the PCV system, to check if this seal is leaking get underneath the engine bay and check for oil residues between the engine and gearbox. If it is leaking then unfortunately the gearbox has to come off which has a 6.25hr labour charge. This makes it an ideal time and makes financial sense to also replace the clutch, as the gearbox will only have to come off again later down the road.

If you find an oil leak further up the back of the engine then a common place for oil to leak from is the oil return line from turbo that goes into the back of the engine. Not a big worry and fairly inexpensive to fix, but always a bargaining point.

Cambelt
Cambelts are due every 70-80k miles or 6years, depending on year. Costs for a cambelt change are £100+. Check there aren’t any unusual noises coming from the cambelt side of the engine, also visually check the condition of the serpentine belt. If appropriate, make sure that a Cambelt change has been documented in the
service history.

Auto Gearbox
If it is an auto check the fluid for level and colour. Should be red and clear and not smell burnt. If not walk away as there could be expensive problems ahead. This must be changed regularly and should have been part of the dealer service schedule.

Rods
The main weakness of the T5 engine are the rods, these can bend and will make a horrific clanging noise. However, they will only bend if the engine has been running very high peak boost pressures (overboost). The main reasons for this is a failed ‘Boost Control Solenoid’ (BCS) or when someone has incorrectly fitted/adjusted a ‘Bleed Valve/Boost Controller’.

Tyres
Check the condition and tread depth of the tyres, T5’s are known for rapid front tyre wear, they are a good indication of how the car has previously been driven and looked after.

Exhaust
The only part of the system that will rust is the rear hangers near the back bumper. Easy fix but a good bargaining point.

ETM post ‘98
In 1998 the 70 series changed from a throttle cable to an ETM (Electronic Throttle Module), the ETM has a high fail rate resulting in a stuttering engine and a low power output By the way if your etm light comes on it's 99% it needs a new module, don't be encourage by a Volvo dealer to fall for the 'we'll try and clean it for it's usually just dirt on the butterefly' they are just wasting money that your going to need for a module and CEM reload. Check by reving the engine to about 4k and watch the needle fall - it should be smooth and steady and so should the idle.

Test Drive
See if the engine is completely cold before starting her up. Expect some slight
condensation/white smoke, this is fine as long as it isn’t excessive. Blue smoke
can occur on start up form cold that is related to valve seals. Idle should be
approx 900 rpm and be steady.

When driving, check in the rear view mirror that there isn’t any smoke coming
from the exhaust when on boost and on the over-run. On a standard tune 850, the
turbo should come in at about 2.5k rpm and reach full boost at 3k rpm, the boost
gauge should get into the white approx 3/4 of the way on full boost, 70 series
do not have a boost gauge as standard. Once you’ve finished all your normal
checks and returned from the drive keep the car running and leave it idle for at
least 5-10mins, keep an eye on engine temperatures and the exhaust again for
blue smoke.

If you see any blue smoke at any time during the test drive then it points at
either a worn turbo, turbo oil seals, valve seals or piston rings.
(courtesy of blackbeast)

i think this will give you plenty to be going on...lol...
cheers
jod

cheers, wow, plenty to look at

[thetroublemaker]

I wholeheartedly concur with the bit about the auto box.

If there is any judder under full boost under 4000rpm which stops at 4000rpm, this is almost certainly drivetrain related.

Be warned - i have big bills cos of this

[Ari]

Thanks jod t5

good info there and plenty to look for when buying a T5

[dwc70]

I am looking at high mileage C70 140k, only it's a 2.4t 1999, is that the same as a T5 in things i should check for, i'm wondering which engine is the most reliable.

[Chris_Rogers]

A '99 2.4T will have an electronic throttle module (ETM).

Make sure this has ben replaced and no warning lights or rough running is evident, budget around £300 for a replacement.