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My CV Gaitor has split!!

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Old Sep 2nd, 2007, 06:39   #1
Georgey dee
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Default My CV Gaitor has split!!

Dear all.

After 105,000 my nearside cv gaitor has split spraying grease everywhere
I have a few questions before I attempt to fix.

Is there any special tools required?
Is it best to do the pair? (nearside/offside)
Should I put on Volvo or will Motor factor stuff do?
Has there been a how to do posted? Coz I can't find one.

I have misplaced my haynes at the mo, (typical!!!!!). I don't want to go into the job blind and I know there's some very experienced people out there.

I have had 4 volvos now over 9 years and I've never had to replace one so I guess I've been lucky up to now.

Any Tips welcome

Thanks Guys and Girls
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Old Sep 2nd, 2007, 08:25   #2
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you haven't been lucky you have been unlucky ! they usualy last a lot longer than that maybe the clip wasnt on properly of something got caught around teh boot and damaged it at some point . Anyway the shaft will have to come off and the Volvo kit contains both the inner and outer boot, clips ,circlips hub nut and grease . you will need to get 2 lower strut bolts though , they are "use once only" stretch bolts . Best to go for the genuine if you want a lasting job , the cheap plastic ones wont last 100,000 miles :-)
No need to do the other side as long as it looks sound ... The only tricky bit is expanding the circlip on the outer joint shaft and knocking off the CV joint at the same time whilst the runny grease flows everywhere .
Dont take the inner joint off just slide the new boot down from the outer end !
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Old Sep 2nd, 2007, 09:38   #3
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Wink

Looky here first.

http://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showth...light=bailcast
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Old Sep 3rd, 2007, 12:48   #4
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Do you have to take all the brake caliper and disc off or will unbolting the strut be enough.

If it's best to remove the ball joint, is it easy with basic tools or do I need a special tool?

I'm even thinking of putting it into the Volvo Garage for this,,, I hate suspension jobs!!!!!!!!!!

This is very unlike me and I hope someone will be able to talk me out of it.
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Old Sep 3rd, 2007, 12:53   #5
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you can leave the disc and caliper on . It's probably easier to remove the two strut bolts rather than the lower ball joint bolt , but remember you must change the bolts and torque and angle torque the new boilts up properly .
You don't need a special tool you should be able to pop the driveshaft out of the gearbox with a large heavy screwdriver but dont force it going back in , keep turning it and gentle taps and the spring ring should click back in ..
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Old Sep 3rd, 2007, 16:17   #6
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Forgive me for my ignorance but if I take the drive shaft out of the auto box will I loose gearbox oil??
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Old Sep 3rd, 2007, 16:19   #7
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No , the level is just up to the bottom of the driveshaft hole so you should be ok as long as the box isnt tilted towards you ! .
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Old Sep 4th, 2007, 09:18   #8
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Thanks, just what I wanted to hear
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Old Sep 7th, 2007, 13:05   #9
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Sorry,,,,,one more question.

Is the hub nut screw thread normal on both sides? What I mean is, is it still left to loosen and right to tighten on both sides? I know some of the older cars used to have left and right hand threads on the same car.

I'm doing the left hub nut so I asume it's left to loosen. Is this right?


Thanks all, once I have the info I'll make a start.
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