960 / V90 parking brake cable R&R

[tosoutherncars]

Hi all,

Well, the DPO of my '96 960 cut the cables for the parking brake when they seized (probably due to lack of use).

I need working p-brakes for my safety check (MOT), so it's a must-fix.

The stealership quoted me approx. $500 (~250 pounds) for just the parts; I'm guessing it would have been more than twice that for labour.

So, having peered into the depths of my wallet, I decided to do the job myself. I used tascaparts.com - for those of you in NA, these guys are fantastic. All OE Volvo-branded parts, and cheapest around. They had everything I needed, shipped to me, in four days. Total cost, ~$150 for all three cables, assorted hardware bits & bobs, new rear pads and p-brake drums.

I have just started on the repair; I'll dig out my camera and try to take some snaps as I go.

[tosoutherncars]

PREP

1) Loosen all rear lug nuts

2) Chock front wheels

3) Jack up car (I suggest under rear A-arms) and use axle stands (I suggest under rear suspension assembly / cross-member). Get it as high as you can.

4) Remove rear wheels.

5) Give all fittings (caliper bolts, p-brake cable ends) a shot of penetrant. Don't use WD40; PB Blaster is my potion of choice.

6) Go inside. Make tea; start a repair thread.

More to follow.

[tosoutherncars]

OK, here we go...

DISASSEMBLY



For the interior bits, you'll need torx screwdrivers (T15, 20, 25), a small flathead screwdriver (for prying up trim), and sockets (13mm?) for the rear seat brackets.

1) Remove the centre console. See instructions here: http://atthetipwebs.com/technologyin...ock_repair.htm

See also: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...960shifter.jpg (thanks to Tech on volvoforums)

The screws directly under the pbrake handle are easy to spot. The ones under the ashtray will want to drop; careful! And when you think you've taken everything out, but the front still won't move...



I lifted up the 'insert' first; pushed through all the switches, and then disconnected them from above. Some of this may not strictly be necessary, but some of my dash & accessory bulbs have burned out, and I view this as a good opportunity to change them all.



With everything undone, the whole console can be lifted out of the way, and the pbrake mechanism is exposed.

[tosoutherncars]

DISSASEMBLY (CONT'D)

2) Remove the lower cushions of the rear seats. This is done by folding them upward (as though to fold down the seat backs), and then giving a sharp tug straight up. (I had no idea this could be done! Very cool.)

3) We need to access the hole in the bulkhead, through which the pbrake cable passes. So, loosen (or remove) all three lower cushion brackets, and peel back the carpet (and reinstall brackets so they don't get lost).



Here is a view from the front seat facing backward. You can see the pbrake assembly, and the hole and rubber grommet are just visible.



4) Disengage the pbrake cable from the handle (there is a small metal tab that is folded up to allow the cable end to disengage).



5) Unthread the plastic nut from the metal housing, then push the female portion through to disengage the cable from the housing altogether.

6) Starting in the back seat area, pull the brake cable backward under the carpet until it is all exposed at the bulkhead area.

[tosoutherncars]

DISSASSEMBLY (CONT'D) - BRAKES

As previously mentioned, I have the car up high, on jackstands.





1) The rotors are held on by the locator pin (seen at six o'clock here), which is removed using a 10mm deep socket.



2) Each caliper is held on by two bolts, from behind. Mine were 15mm (p/side) and one 15mm, one 16mm (driver's side). Very odd; yours may be different. In any case; unbolt, and hang the caliper off a loop of the rear spring (wire coathangers work well here).



3) The pbrake drum assembly (retaining clip, spring, drums and spacer) can now be disassembled. I won't post photos here for bandwidth reasons, but they are in my album. I think it should be available to everyone; http://s10.photobucket.com/user/toso...?sort=6&page=1

4) Remove the retaining clip (behind the dust shield) and remove the outboard end of the parking brake cable (sheath and inner portion).



5) Remove the muffler (to allow access to the inner portion of the cable assembly) as follows. Loosening the exhaust clamp above the rear axle, p/side (a tight squeeze; 15mm, I think). unhook the muffler hangers (I chose to unhook the outboard rubber mount, and unbolt the inboard hanger assembly, 2x14mm nuts. The muffler should drop somewhat, and can now be wiggled from side to side until loose.

Hint: I found it necessary to jack up the exhaust slightly, just in front of the axle (i.e. behind the resonator) to allow more room to drop the muffler.

The inner workings of the pbrake cable assembly can now be accessed somewhat.

View from outboard;



View from inboard;



That's where I left it for the night; dosed everything with a shot of PB Blaster and put everything away. Back at it tomorrow.

[OvlovS70]

Hello,
Fantastic write up
Cheers