940 LPT 2.3 problems starting in damp

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by LPTJoe

Can't believe no-ones suggested this yet but here we go...

Take the dizzy cap off, clean the inside and have a spray round the insides with WD40

The next time the problem occurs try this process and if it works then you can be certain that water/moisture is getting into your dizzy cap and causing the issues.

Originally Posted by haymitch

My 940 has had problems this week starting up in damp weather (I'm assuming that damp is a factor as I've not had problems otherwise). I was advised to change the spark plugs, wires and distributor would resolve the issues, but two days later I've had the same problem.

It's open to interpretation Joe but he kind of says he's put a new cap on in the first post.

Could be the non-return T-valve for the screenwash jets is leaking onto the dizzy cap of course..........

[haymitch]

Yes, I had the dizzy cap replaced last week, along with spark plugs and leads. I didn't keep any of the old parts I'm afraid. Sorry for any confusion in my initial description - I spent the whole of yesterday worrying about the car which probably affected ability to type clearly!

The no start issue was present before these parts were replaced, which would suggest the fault lies elsewhere unless I'm wrong?

There's no misfiring under heavy acceleration unless the car is trying to accelerate heavily past 90 (so I've been told ). There's no problem under heavy acceleration within legal speed limits (which is where I tend to drive tbh).

I'm going to try adding meths to the tank if the garage can't successfully diagnose the problem. Would having the fuel tank emptied at the garage also get rid of condensation / water in the tank? Albeit at a much greater cost...

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by haymitch

Would having the fuel tank emptied at the garage also get rid of condensation / water in the tank? Albeit at a much greater cost...

Yes it would but they'd need to take the tank out - a lot of work and you'd need a new seal for the in-tank pump/sender unit (about £11 from Volvo) and that's assuming nothing goes wrong with the job!

I'd try the meths, much quicker, easier and cheaper!

[haymitch]

Ouch, fair enough! I can see why the meths is the better option

[Dirty Rooster]

Originally Posted by haymitch

Yes, I had the dizzy cap replaced last week, along with spark plugs and leads. I didn't keep any of the old parts I'm afraid
...
The no start issue was present before these parts were replaced, which would suggest the fault lies elsewhere...

Yes. *strokes beard*

I would swap in a coil, which I have lying around.
For those who get rid of all old parts that might be more expensive,
but how about a new coil?

I had a leaky screenwash joint right over the distributor too!!

Are your battery and alternator tested and powerful?

[haymitch]

The battery *should* be good as it's only 1 year and half old. That said, I haven't checked. The alternator is powering all the electronic equipment in the car, but I haven't checked that either. Will check the battery once I get the car back with a multimeter - not sure how to check the alternator any further. I'll also quiz the garage whether they've checked these on Monday.

I've had a look on Google (dangerous I know) and come across Wynn's Dry Fuel which has good reviews. It's probably pretty much identical to meths but I was thinking of using this instead because then I'd be able to use it on a full tank according to the instructions. The tank is 2/3 full at the moment and the full gauge is slightly iffy (goes straight from a half tank to almost empty) which will make it hard to judge a 1/4 tank. Any thoughts? I'm wondering whether this could be easier if slightly more expensive?

Will try to keep old parts in future. The silly thing is that I keep my old computer bits all the time as they coming in handy for diagnosing IT problems so I should know better!

[Dirty Rooster]

I mentioned the alternator & battery because I once had starting problems which eventually turned out (after some wasted searching) to be a very poorly battery which I changed for a brand new Yuasa one, plus a far-too-weak alternator which had caused the battery to fail, swapped in for a very old used one from a forum member.
Solved the problem.
(Probably not your problem but worth a check)
At the garage they have a battery tester thing - I think they run it overnight so not an instant check... and the alternator check takes just a few seconds with the engine running and the right tool : therefore probably free

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by haymitch

I've had a look on Google (dangerous I know) and come across Wynn's Dry Fuel which has good reviews. It's probably pretty much identical to meths but I was thinking of using this instead because then I'd be able to use it on a full tank according to the instructions.

Very dangerous, Google is!

Wynns Dry Fuel is not just pretty much identical to meths, it IS meths!

I know this because i looked into it, downloading the COSHH Safety Data Sheet to find out what was in it. Aside from about a total of 1% of colourants etc to make it look unlike meths and not smell the same, it is 99% pure methylated spirits.

Also it's not suitable for what you need, it is a prevention rather than a cure and is meant to be added on a regular basis, to keep the condensation down in the first place.

If you're having trouble judging 1/4 tank but have about 2/3 of a tank, it's not quite mathematically "spot-on" but if you add 4L of meths (Toolstation is the cheapest, 2L = £6-7 so 4L will be double)

https://www.toolstation.com/shop/Pai...+Spirit/p99550

Bear in mind you'll pay £3-4 for Wynns Dry Fuel in a tub smaller than the doctor gives you for a wee sample the Dry Fuel works out incredibly expensive by comparison.

If this garage can't find a problem, it's worth it IMHO chucking £14 at it in the form of meths from Toolstation to see if it cures it. If it does, well and good, if it doesn't then it's still got rid of any condensation that was in the tank and fuel system.

[haymitch]

An update - the garage thinks they've found the problem - a bad coolant temperature sensor. They kept it overnight and it started up in the cold this morning. I don't think they are completely sure it is the problem though, so...

I'm going to put in some meths later today and try that as well - will let you know how I get on I mentioned the water problem to the garage and they said it wouldn't be a problem unless tank was a 1/4 empty as the fuel is taken from the top of the tank. I think with these cars the fuel is taken from the bottom though?

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by haymitch

I'm going to put in some meths later today and try that as well - will let you know how I get on I mentioned the water problem to the garage and they said it wouldn't be a problem unless tank was a 1/4 empty as the fuel is taken from the top of the tank. I think with these cars the fuel is taken from the bottom though?

The fuel is most definitely drawn from the bottom of the tank! Among other things, it's common sense - no matter what the fuel level is in the tank, there will always be fuel in the bottom of the tank. Therefore there is only one logical place to place the fuel pick up. Even if the pipe comes out the top of the tank, the pick up is in the bottom.

It's possible the CTS has gone belly up and would potentially give cold starting problems but also running problems - fuel consumption would be heavy, throttle response lack-lustre (sometimes intermittently) and general drivability suffers.

See what happens when they've changed the sensor. Either way, good call on adding the meths!