S60 Brakes: Handbrake actuator sleeve stuck.

[LucasSilver]

Hi folks.

I hope I named the part correctly. It's the part on the brakes backplate that pulls the expander when you pull on the handbrake. As such I can't put brake shoes on as I'm unable to pull the sleeve out. Is there a trick to it or is it seized perhaps? I tried using penetrating oil for a bit and wiggling it around, pulling on it but it seems stuck as if handbrake was engaged while it isn't.

I've read in haynes manual about replacing the cables but I'm unsure about a few things. As I understand the whole system is mechanical and very basic but I'm not sure what should I replace if anything. Maybe I'm doing something wrong this far. My problem started a few months ago at the end of December with one side of the parking brake sticking. At first I thought it was delamination but shoes were fine. It seems that one side of the cable pulling system is either stuck or i did something wrong while taking the shoes off. I don't think you can do much wrong doing that and I saw on tutorial videos that the actuator sleeve stays out and it's easy to remove the actuator.

Could the cable rust inside the tubing and be seized up or my understanding is wrong? If they are, will I have to replace the cables and the protection tubes as well?

Thank you kindly for any tips.

[stuart bowes]

are you talking about where the plastic part joins the back side of the hub? theres no bolt or anything it just comes out. i persuaded mine with a few side-on taps with a rubber mallet. but then I didnt care about the old ones because I was replacing them

the A1 auto lady has done a very comprehensive video which shows you all the parts, I watched that and didnt have any queries from then on

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FTLZuz70nEk

[cheshired5]

Originally Posted by LucasSilver

I don't think you can do much wrong doing that and I saw on tutorial videos that the actuator sleeve stays out and it's easy to remove the actuator.

Could the cable rust inside the tubing and be seized up or my understanding is wrong? If they are, will I have to replace the cables and the protection tubes as well?

I cover that area at around 23 minutes in my video here.
I would always recommend replacing cables if you're going that deep into the job.
Do it right once then forget about it.

[LucasSilver]

Originally Posted by stuart bowes

are you talking about where the plastic part joins the back side of the hub? theres no bolt or anything it just comes out. i persuaded mine with a few side-on taps with a rubber mallet. but then I didnt care about the old ones because I was replacing them

the A1 auto lady has done a very comprehensive video which shows you all the parts, I watched that and didnt have any queries from then on

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FTLZuz70nEk

Thank you for prompt response mate. Excellent stuff.

[LucasSilver]

Originally Posted by cheshired5

I cover that area at around 23 minutes in my video here.
I would always recommend replacing cables if you're going that deep into the job.
Do it right once then forget about it.

I literally had your video in recommended. Damn and blessed Google. I have just watched your video twice without seeing your post here. Very informative.

I just have one question. The bar that keeps front part of brake shoes in place. Where can I buy it? Did I name it correctly? I can't find any for sale. I threw out the original one with old brake shoes mistakenly although I kept the actuator. Just being a noob.

Thank you for your help everyone, I love this forums.

[stuart bowes]

IMHO (at the risk of others calling it a bodge) if you want to replace the spacer bar (i think I know the bit you mean) then you may as well get the adjusters.

a> they wont cost you much more if at all different
b> they're probably easier to get hold of
c> you can leave them at minimum setting which is the same as the old part
d> you get the option if you want to make the handrake tighter at the drum end and save yourself more room for movement at the easy handle end adjuster later on when they wear down

up to you obviously like I say others have voiced their opinons on this in the past but I didnt really see what the fuss was about to be honest, what's wrong with having more adjustment

bosh

or if you prefer this option

bear in mind i found the cheaper expanders required a little fettling to get them to operate smoothly and clamp tightly but with some small amount of effort theres no reason they can't work perfectly

you might prefer to pay a little more and get 'decent' ones

I would say it's definitely worth having some spare springs because they can get stretched out (in my case when I got a bit angry and yanked it. my bad. dont do that just go a get a tea and have 10mins break lol)

one caveat I found the cheap shoe retaining springs to be total cr@p and bought volvo ones in the end, they were just a tighter fit and didnt stretch out when fiddling around with them especially if like me you put them on and take them of a couple of times because you're pedantic about getting a perfect fit

[LucasSilver]

Originally Posted by stuart bowes

IMHO (at the risk of others calling it a bodge) if you want to replace the spacer bar (i think I know the bit you mean) then you may as well get the adjusters.

Thank you man. I thought I won't be able to find that part at all.

[stuart bowes]

no worries. the spiky bit goes at the top end, just make sure you can see it through one of the bolt holes in the hub

wind it all the way in to start with

later on if you do want to adjust it, turn the drum/disc slowly (handbrake off obviously) until you see the spiky bit through one of the holes
use a screwdriver to slowly turn that spiky bit which will wind it out.
keep testing that the shoes aren't rubbing by turning the drum/disc by hand and checking it doesn't make a rubbing sound.
as soon as it does rub, turn it back a notch until the noise stops.
done