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XC90 '02–'15 General Forum for the P2-platform XC90 model |
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Exhaust flange repair?Views : 1497 Replies : 8Users Viewing This Thread : |
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Nov 9th, 2020, 21:20 | #1 |
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Exhaust flange repair?
Hi, I noticed our 2005 D5 was sounding a bit louder than usual. I had a look underneath, and indeed I could see fumes escaping at the join between the front and back sections of the exhaust, sort of underneath the centre console.
I got underneath, and one of the two flange bolts has failed (see photo). Searching about, it seems the normal repair is to cut off both ends, and fit a new sleeve and flange to both ends, and bolt them together again. I'm not quite that brave to try that myself, but I was thinking about buying a couple of split flanges to go either side of the existing ones, and then bolting them together to try and pull the surfaces of the original flanges together. The sort of thing I'm look at is this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Exhaust-F...t/313045930120 If the link doesn't work, try searching for "split exhaust flange" But they all seem to be in China, and in 2.5" (63mm) or 3.0" (76mm) diameter, which don't quite match up with my measurements (which could easily be a few mm out). Has anyone tried a repair like this before? Or can anyone suggest a UK supplier that might have something similar? Thanks, Neil |
Nov 11th, 2020, 10:00 | #2 |
Me ? Surely Not!
Last Online: Apr 5th, 2024 16:23
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Location: 2007 Volvo XC90 D5 Geartronic. South of Hadrians Wall.
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I've use this type on a few vehicles before and they have been very effective.
They are available in various diameters if you search on ebay and are simply slid over the existing pipe once the old flange has been cut off and then secured with a U exhaust clamp. Check these out. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/57mm-2-25...QAAOSwBLlVIS55
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Nov 12th, 2020, 16:04 | #3 | |
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Quote:
Thanks. |
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Nov 16th, 2020, 19:59 | #4 |
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So here's the result of my repair over the weekend.
Tightened it up again (used thread lock on the nut) and left it over night. So far, so good. I don't imagine it will take too much punishment, but it will buy me a bit of time. Neil The larger washer was there to try and bridge the gap where the perished bolt hole was. |
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Nov 16th, 2020, 20:45 | #5 |
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Hi
You could always put a jubilee clip around the pipe and the bolt to stop the bolt and washer bending away from the pipe. Will certainly strengthen the repair. Iain |
Nov 17th, 2020, 09:21 | #6 |
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If you feel the rest of the exhaust will last long enough, why not bring it to a shop and ask them the weld the flange together. At worst you will have to cut it open in the future. They won't be able to weld it properly at the top (could still fill that gap with paste), but that will certainly reduce the noise and fumes by a good amount.
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Several Volvo Repair Videos https://www.youtube.com/playlist?lis...ECTts0FSVSOT_c Last edited by oragex; Nov 17th, 2020 at 09:23. |
Nov 17th, 2020, 20:01 | #7 | |
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Quote:
If that doesn't last, then perhaps welding as oragex suggests, or the cut off the flanges and fit new sleeves option. The rest of the exhaust does seem pretty solid, apart from the hanger towards the rear. I've a replacement for that on order. Neil |
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Sep 24th, 2021, 20:58 | #8 |
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My 2005 went through the MOT today and I got an advisory on the centre exhaust connection (the bit under the centre console). Exactly the same as the OP with photos. I thought it would be an advisory as it was only a small leak and true to the MOT guy it did only come out with that single advisory.
It has 178k on the clock and not been on the road for 18 months so not surprising the exhaust is rotten in that place. Now the dilema is this; Do I cut out the flanges and slide a flexi piece in there or do I slide in a rigid section of pipe ? The more costly option is a new exhaust but I would rather not splash the cash just yet until I get to know the car more and live with it. Thoughts please.
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Oct 4th, 2021, 13:45 | #9 |
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Quick update:
I cut off the old flanges front and rear with an angle grinder and slid a 200mm rigid connecting piece of pipe in there. Having done that the exhaust was still a bit droppy (if thats a word) in that position and the rear section would eventually rattle down onto the cross brace. I thought the best fix for this would be to splint / brace the joint which has certainly made the whole length more rigid. Now that I have done the job I can understand why that flange joint would break so easily as the length of pipe from the rear axle to the flexipipe just under the engine doesnt have a single exhaust hanger on it; It really needs one just to take the weight off the flange joint. The rear section of exhaust looked a bit rusty but when I cut it off with the angle grinder there was still plenty of thickness to the metal.
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Current Volvo XC90 2.4 (2005) Automatic in bronze Current Toyota Yaris 1.4 (2014) Manual in silver Previous cars - Ssangyongs, Volvo 960, Citroens, Avensis, Fiesta & Escorts, Minis, Beetle & Passat, Cavalier, Acclaim, Mini & Maestro |
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