|
400 Series General Forum for the Volvo 440, 460 and 480 cars |
Information |
|
Stall on decelerationViews : 4811 Replies : 49Users Viewing This Thread : |
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
Mar 22nd, 2007, 13:39 | #11 |
Guest
Location:
|
stall on deceleration
Hi my first post and new member.
Your problem sounds like a loose electrical connection. When braking or slowing down, also jolts to the vehicle,these seem to cause your symtoms. As you know, the engine moves slightly whilst braking and excelerating, so it could be pulling on a cable someware in the engine compartment, dont forget to check the main battery cables also. Failing this, try looking under the bonnet in the dark, and get a mate to start the car, and have a look for any signs of sparking. Hope my feeble attempts help you & good fault finding |
Mar 23rd, 2007, 21:39 | #12 |
New Member
Last Online: Jun 15th, 2012 16:43
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: birmingham
|
dont know if this helps but the same thing happend to my 440 1.8i. cough and die when turning right or down hill then restart fine (live on a hill, work on a hill = bit of a bugger) it turned out to be the fuel pump, as the pumps bottom bearing failed so any jolt or side ways force would cause the impeller to jam, engine and electric feed stops, impeller frees and then engine would restart. If you feel brave you can remove the pump via an opening under the rear seat(but remove the battery, any jewellery, open all the doors and have an extinguisher handy when you do) and test it with a simple 12v feed from another battery, making sure to tilt or jolt the thing and to use a small amount of petrol in a bucket, also run it for aslong as possible as they can run for a short time with out trouble.
|
Mar 23rd, 2007, 21:57 | #13 |
New Member
Last Online: Jun 15th, 2012 16:43
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: birmingham
|
my 440 1.8 i did the same thing becuse the fuel pump lower bearing was knackered but mine died on right hand turns or going down hills . any jolts or side ways force to caused the impeller to jam in the housing thus stopping the engines electrical feed, the pump stopped, the impeller freed itself and the engine restarted. if you feel brave you can remove it resonable easily through then opening under the rear seat but if you do remove the battery, any jewellery, open all the doors and have fire extiguisher handy, then use small amount of petrol in bucket and a 12v feed from another battery to power it, then jolt and tilt it to test it. its a last resort but if all else fails...
|
Mar 26th, 2007, 00:16 | #14 |
Master Member
Last Online: May 30th, 2015 05:21
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Wicklow
|
Thanks all!
Some really interesting and useful suggestions there ... thanks a lot for taking the time and trouble to share. Interestingly, the car seems to throw a wobbler as per the descriptions given ... or at least in a certain pattern. For example, a three - point turn or reversing into a parking spot nearly always causes a stall ... but re-starting is never a problem.
Second gear ( gearing down to ) is usually accompanied by a shudder and / or the car stalling. Not usually from 5th. to 4th. or 4th. to 3rd. though. Perhaps being higher up the rev range, the car doesn't experience as much adverse movement as it would at lower speeds. Come to think of it, the mention of angle is very interesting indeed. I can't recall the car having fit going uphill ... a downward incline seems to do it. I'll be starting with the electrics, and then straight on to the Fuel pump if that doesn't sort it. Will be reporting back, and thanks again! |
Mar 30th, 2007, 03:43 | #15 |
Master Member
Last Online: May 30th, 2015 05:21
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Wicklow
|
Sorted ???
Hi all,
Okay, procrastination was overcome and I went at my 440 with a wire brush. Or rather, I managed to unbolt the earthing strap from the battery / inner wing and cleaned it with brush. Did same to offside earth, and cleaned the half tub of Vaseline off the Battery terminals + refitted. Car seems to be running perfectly now, It's either that a/ so much gunk was on the terminals that the connection to the battery was bad ( though they were secure ) b/ The earths were bad ( bit fluffy, they were ) or c/ the leak ( which a new windscreen sorted ) was the cause of the problem. Oh, I forgot 'D': Possibly none of the above and it'll start its' nonsense again tomorrow ... Regards, Anthony. |
Apr 6th, 2007, 19:28 | #16 |
Master Member
Last Online: May 30th, 2015 05:21
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Wicklow
|
Back to old ways
Hi all,
Well, the blasted car did it again last night. Driving down a hill, slowing and turning left into a supermarket it lost power .... dangerous. I really brought home to me how little braking / steering there is when the engine cuts out. Came off the clutch sharpish and it restarted, but I'll have to get this done or I'll end up tailgating someone. The fuel pump suggestions look good. Thinking of Ebaying on this one ... just replace the entire pump altogether? Regards, Anthony. |
Apr 8th, 2007, 16:11 | #17 |
Junior Member
Last Online: Jun 17th, 2007 09:42
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Wrexham
|
Have you checked out your air hoses? They may be pulling air especially when engine rocks forward on deceleration. Could then run very lean. I had something like that a while ago but a diesel.
__________________
Black 340 Redline - missed |
Apr 8th, 2007, 17:37 | #18 |
Junior Member
Last Online: Feb 18th, 2023 16:06
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Aberdeenshire
|
"Well, the blasted car did it again last night. Driving down a hill, slowing and turning left into a supermarket it lost power .... dangerous. I really brought home to me how little braking / steering there is when the engine cuts out."
Anthony, have you tried cleaning/replacing the flywheel sensor?? Regards Malky |
Apr 9th, 2007, 23:42 | #19 |
New Member
Last Online: Sep 16th, 2007 19:31
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Poole
|
440
Could be idle stabilisation. My Mk2 Golf used to do the same. Start fine but cut out when revs dropped when depressing clutch whilst driving. Ticked over quite lumpy and needle 'hunted', seemed to be worse when cold too. Had a new idle stabilisation valve and ran fine. I don't know what Volvo prices are like but these can be expensive so make sure it is that before you buy one.
|
Apr 10th, 2007, 01:33 | #20 |
Master Member
Last Online: May 30th, 2015 05:21
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Wicklow
|
Good thought!
Hi there,
Thanks a million. That was a bit like fortune telling there ... it's EXACTLY what's happening with my car. Everything you describe is spot on. Now all I need is to find a decent mechanic who can diagnose a car properly ... thin on the ground, sadly, in these parts! Thanks again. Regards, Anthony. |
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests) | |
|
|