Ignition Switch Part 2...progress...kinda

[DaWhole9]

OK. So I thought my ignition Lock Cylinder was bad. Removed it to put in a new one and realized its not the Lock Cylinder. I lubed the ignition switch with the lock cylinder removed and got the switch to go to all the positions, except when it goes to the start position, it gets stuck there, and a bit of force is needed to get it back to the other three positions. You can hear a definite "click" when you turn it to the start position. The other three positions of the ignition switch work freely. I have a push button switch installed and its not even needed to go to the starting position, except if you go there by accident, it will get stuck. Is this a common fault of the ignition? Should I look for a replacement switch and coil? Should I continue to try and work the switch and see if some use will free it up some more. It seems to be working better with a little lube and some use, but I dont wanna push it and break it completely. Here is a video...any and all advice is welcome!! Thanks!!

+ YouTube Video

[blueosprey90]

I have a push button switch installed and its not even needed to go to the starting position, except if you go there by accident, it will get stuck. Is this a common fault of the ignition?

I'm a newbie too, but apparently "yes".

Should I look for a replacement switch and coil?

If you can figure out what switch to use, let me know.

Should I continue to try and work the switch and see if some use will free it up some more.

Won't help. Just risk getting key stuck when you least expect it.

[DaWhole9]

Originally Posted by blueosprey90

I have a push button switch installed and its not even needed to go to the starting position, except if you go there by accident, it will get stuck. Is this a common fault of the ignition?

I'm a newbie too, but apparently "yes".

Should I look for a replacement switch and coil?

If you can figure out what switch to use, let me know.

Should I continue to try and work the switch and see if some use will free it up some more.

Won't help. Just risk getting key stuck when you least expect it.

My plan would be to get a stock replacement switch and coil thats in working order. I have a push button switch installed already...just want to make it as reliable and easy as possible.

[Ron Kwas]

DW9;

"I have a push button switch installed and its not even needed to go to the starting position, " ...I don't quite understand...why would it??...Start Pushbutton and Ign Sw are separate switches! Starting procedure is to place Ign Sw in Pos 3, then push start button until engine fires.

"a bit of force is needed to get it back to the other three positions. You can hear a definite "click" when you turn it to the start position." Pos 1-3 should be detented and you should feel this, but Pos 4 should not, as Gorilla Spring is supposed to return it to Pos 3, rotating part should never remain there...this would keep Starter engaged, which would be a pretty big problem!

I would say Ign Sw has a mechanical issue and needs to be replaced. Whether you do this as a part of the Ign Coil/Armored cable/ Ign Sw, is obviously up to you. This is not a common failure mode...actually, first time I've heard of it...

Cheers

[Derek UK]

It's very likely that you can use an MGB Ignition switch if you are certain that yours is useless. The are not expensive. You would need to make a small backing plate for a little extra support if you are using the same hole. There is only one wire in the armoured cable so if you cut the cable from the switch body you can still use this as your live lead to the coil. You may need to extend it a few inches. Doing that means that everything visible under the hood looks normal. You can still wire in a push button for starting.

[DaWhole9]

Originally Posted by Derek UK

It's very likely that you can use an MGB Ignition switch if you are certain that yours is useless. The are not expensive. You would need to make a small backing plate for a little extra support if you are using the same hole. There is only one wire in the armoured cable so if you cut the cable from the switch body you can still use this as your live lead to the coil. You may need to extend it a few inches. Doing that means that everything visible under the hood looks normal. You can still wire in a push button for starting.

Ok...so if I don’t care about having a Volvo key, an MGB ignition (Lucas) from the 60s that’s a 4 position switch, right? Or basically any 4 position 12v automotive ignition switch that will fit should work, right? So the armored cable once cut just has a standard copper cable in it? I can solder on a spade connector and connect it to the switch as well as the other wires from the old switch and it’s done right? Seems too easy lol. Anything special to look out for?

[DaWhole9]

Ok. Here is a MGB switch...look like it will work?

88ACC721-1A99-44BE-AE70-12140E504244.jpg

Here is the diagram...so post 3 is where I attach the wire from the armored cable?

E4D94185-CC72-4E73-BA3C-30169B1BF953.jpg