|
PV, 120 (Amazon), 1800 General Forum for the Volvo PV, 120 and 1800 cars |
Information |
|
12v regulatorViews : 679 Replies : 9Users Viewing This Thread : |
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
Jan 29th, 2020, 09:45 | #1 |
arcturus
Last Online: Today 07:31
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Sagres Portugal
|
12v regulator
As part of my preparations to convert the PV to 12v I have been given this regulator. Possibly from an Amazon or late PV? Any body recognize it.There seems to be a ground wire coming off the fixing plate. To battery? Also converting light bulbs. ie Instrument lights 2 watt. Same wattage?
Still waiting for carb' parts so I can on with PV.
__________________
life's too short to drink bad wine Last edited by arcturus; Jan 29th, 2020 at 10:16. |
Jan 29th, 2020, 15:36 | #2 |
Premier Member
Last Online: Yesterday 23:59
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Connecticut, USA
|
Arcturus;
V Reg does look like the typical 12V Bosch (relay) type used in Amazons (or 544), however...I recommend against using it without verifying PN which I expect/hope can be found either on assembly or that yellow tag. "...ground wire coming off the fixing plate. To battery?" ...negative return, yes to Battery (is quite important for V and I sensing) and is made through chassis mount in 122 installation (I would expect the same in 544, but don't know this for certain)...so this VReg may have come from another donor vehicle where a wire was used in factory installation, OR wire was added by a PO (paralleling up Bat negative connection can never hurt, but it is really NOT necessary and often a workaround for poor stock connections elsewhere...it's absolutely better and recommended to have clean and tight stock connections everywhere!!). When changing V of system from 6V to 12V, general rule is to install lamps intended for the 12V service and keep Wattages of lamps the same. See also: https://www.sw-em.com/Vintage_Volvo_...conversion.htm Cheers |
Jan 29th, 2020, 16:36 | #3 |
arcturus
Last Online: Today 07:31
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Sagres Portugal
|
Thanks Ron. As soon as I get the PV up and running I intend to carry out the conversion. Didn't want to do it at this time in case I had issues with rebuild and didn't want to confuse the issue as to whether re build or re wire. Any way How would you say was the best way to connect up the DR's. I know that it should be in series to the wipers but that the two DRs used should be connected together in parallel. It's the physical connection of the two I'm interested in (connections will be soldered) between switch and wiper. Should they be wired that way after the switch or before it? I will be using two also for the blower motor.I purchased six. Are they to strong for the fuel gauge? Save me hunting for single 80ohm resistor.Don't really want to spend a day and drive 100k each way to look for a ten cent resistor
__________________
life's too short to drink bad wine Last edited by arcturus; Jan 29th, 2020 at 18:10. |
Jan 29th, 2020, 18:28 | #4 |
Premier Member
Last Online: Yesterday 23:59
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Connecticut, USA
|
arcturus;
That certainly (still) looks like a VReg for Bosch Generator equipped Chg Sys, but others might verify that PN (or verify it in a parts or replacement parts list). DRs can be wired anywhere in the current path to decrease Voltage on Load, the longer item is powered, the longer they produce heat, the hotter they get...so observe temperature safety and mount to a surface which can dissipate heat which they will produce... DRs are not necessary for fuel gauge...but an 80Ohm resistor will fit nicely and almost flat into a letter envelope...I suggest you have someone send you one with a Birthday card! Cheers |
Jan 29th, 2020, 18:53 | #5 |
arcturus
Last Online: Today 07:31
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Sagres Portugal
|
Could you please post a quick sketch of circuit from switch through two DRls in parallel. Don't want to screw up.
__________________
life's too short to drink bad wine |
Jan 29th, 2020, 19:00 | #6 |
Premier Member
Last Online: Yesterday 23:59
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Connecticut, USA
|
|
Jan 29th, 2020, 20:19 | #7 |
arcturus
Last Online: Today 07:31
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Sagres Portugal
|
Thanks I have this but nor sure of the best way to include the second DLR.
__________________
life's too short to drink bad wine |
Jan 29th, 2020, 20:47 | #8 |
Premier Member
Last Online: Yesterday 23:59
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Connecticut, USA
|
A;
Resistors in Series > Resistance value is higher (values add, use this configuration if you need further decrease in motor speed/further voltage on load reduction). R in Parallel > Resistance of two equal Rs in Par is half value of one. Use this if voltage drop with a single is too much (motor speed too low, etc)...three equal Rs in Par, one third...if R values are mixed Rtot = 1/R1 + 1/R2 + 1/R3 etc. Cheers |
Jan 30th, 2020, 19:46 | #9 |
arcturus
Last Online: Today 07:31
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Sagres Portugal
|
Re fuel gauge i have the offer of a 100 ohm resister from a local friend. Do you think that it will be OK?
__________________
life's too short to drink bad wine |
Jan 30th, 2020, 20:08 | #10 |
Premier Member
Last Online: Yesterday 23:59
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Connecticut, USA
|
a;
Sure...it's OK to try that value...as my tests found, the gauges are very tolerant of supply voltage variation, so I function will be fine...worst case, calibration might be off a bit, but nothing one wouldn't get used to, as you keep you eyes open for an 80 Ohm R... Correction: Please note in my last posting, term on left side of equals sign must be 1/Rtot! Cheers |
The Following User Says Thank You to Ron Kwas For This Useful Post: |
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests) | |
|
|