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Diesel power...the D24TIC 940 rolling restoration project

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Old Feb 19th, 2021, 20:47   #31
griston64
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https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Stahlbus-...wAAOSw629fmSUm

This is pricey but looks very good. Can anyone confirm the correct size for a 940 ?
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Old Feb 19th, 2021, 20:48   #32
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Originally Posted by AllHailKingVolvo View Post
Well, I tapped the sump plug hole (in the horrible weather!) And fitted the 20mm plug, with new copper washer of course.

All seems okay, got all the swarf out (not that there was much left in there...I slathered the tap with thick grease which caught almost all of it), but there is an irritating minor, yet persistent, drip of oil from the plug area. I've tightened it as much as I dare, but I don't want to risk stripping the thread...I've asked the garage who are doing the cambelt on Monday to look it over and see if they can stop the leak, as I've had just about as much time laying under a car in the wind and rain as I can stand for one weekend!

I've put a small bowl under the car to see how much it drips overnight, I doubt very much it's losing enough for it to be a concern, but I'm determined to get it sorted. Once it's sealed I'll leave it be and extract oil by pump via the dipstick tube in the future methinks.
Try one of these (M20 size) next time Phil :

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Metric-Se...4/371115407476

You can buy 10 for about £7 ish, the "skirt" inside will screw down the thread and then it's like an "O" ring inside the bonding to the steel washer. They work well to take up discrepancies in the surface/angles and seal very tightly against pressure as well.

Every time i do my 760 i keep forgetting to check the size on it but i'm fairly sure i have the right size in my stash (i keep M14 for my other beast, both engine and gearbox use the same sump plug thread size on that and OE spec is Dowty seals/washers) so i will be upgrading mine to a Dowty soon.

They are reusable but good practice is to renew when disturbed.
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Old Feb 22nd, 2021, 12:31   #33
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Thanks Dave-I never thought of using a Dowty! I use M6/M8 Dowtys all the time when building kart engines-we rely on crankcase pulse pressure to power the fuel pumps, so always fit the breakout banjo bolts with Dowtys after drilling out the crankcase to eliminate oil seepage. It never occurred to me to fit a big one, I've ordered one from the Bay for future use. Thankyou!

I dropped the car off at Kings Motor Services in Westbury this morning for the cambelt to be done, and they are going to sort the sump leak and install the glowplugs for me whilst the car is with them. I was planning on fitting them myself, but have come down with a chest infection and don't fancy any more spanner spinning in the cold weather! My immune system took a bit of a battering when I was unwell at the end of last year, so I have to be a little careful for the time being. I chickened out, in other words!!
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Old Feb 22nd, 2021, 13:49   #34
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Thanks Dave-I never thought of using a Dowty! I use M6/M8 Dowtys all the time when building kart engines-we rely on crankcase pulse pressure to power the fuel pumps, so always fit the breakout banjo bolts with Dowtys after drilling out the crankcase to eliminate oil seepage. It never occurred to me to fit a big one, I've ordered one from the Bay for future use. Thankyou!

I dropped the car off at Kings Motor Services in Westbury this morning for the cambelt to be done, and they are going to sort the sump leak and install the glowplugs for me whilst the car is with them. I was planning on fitting them myself, but have come down with a chest infection and don't fancy any more spanner spinning in the cold weather! My immune system took a bit of a battering when I was unwell at the end of last year, so I have to be a little careful for the time being. I chickened out, in other words!!
You're welcome Phil, Dowty washers are a much under-used commodity IMHO although Saab use them in place of the copper washers on the same fuel filter that most 7/9xx models use.

Somewhere i have a spare fuel filter that was supplied for Saab fitting with the Dowtys when i ordered a Volvo one which took longer to arrive than it should have done.

As such i bought one locally as the filter needed changing and there was a leak close by so killed two birds with one stone buying the local one and i now have a spare filter for next time too.

Good move on getting the garage to fit the glow plugs while they are doing the timing belt and hopefully sorting the sump-plug leak. Don't blame you "chickening out" - it's surprising what can lurk dormant in your system even when you feel fit and well until you get a mild infection after your immune system has taken a hammering. Only needs that little trigger, getting too cold or breathing damp air or whatever it may be and suddenly you're laid up for weeks feeling like a high-functioning zombie.
Thanks to contracting Staph A after having the flu vaccine 6 years ago and a compromised immune system due to other medical conditions, i'm now extra careful about doing anything outside in the cold/damp weather so i totally understand where you're coming from - better to chicken out for now so you're well enough to do other things come the better weather!
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Old Feb 27th, 2021, 12:35   #35
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The garage got back to me today (incidentally I cannot fault the customer service and communication, these guys are brilliant!), They have sorted the sump plug issue, changed the cambelt and all ancillaries, and fitted the glowplugs. They tested them and confirmed that the plugs for No. 5 and 6 were both U/S, and had in fact never been changed since the car was new! All replaced with nice fresh Bosch Duratherm units now. It needed a couple of other bits such as a new rocker cover gasket as the old one was leaking, but all was done extremely reasonably.

The garage kindly wrote up a "to do" list of bits around the car which I'll work through in the coming weeks. Most of it is fairly standard minor stuff such as the rear brake pad roll pins and spreader plates being corroded, a binding NSF brake, a couple of exhaust clamps and hanger bushes etc, there are a couple of bigger jobs which I have to take care of such as the driveshaft centre support bearing and mount, gearbox mount and the retainer mounts for both, all of which are in a bit of state, but I'm sure I can cope with those.

I'm collecting on Monday, can't wait to get the car back and crack on with it!
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Old Feb 27th, 2021, 19:18   #36
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My d24 is rapidly becoming a rolling resto too haha

Gods speed bud
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Old Feb 27th, 2021, 21:14   #37
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Hi phil im well impressed with the work kings have carried out for you they must have a old school technician at there workshop familiar with these engines im guessing .we would be interested in the cost of such a thorough service as some of us have paid well over for poor work on our beloved 900s hopefully you will let us know
Regards jim
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Old Mar 1st, 2021, 22:25   #38
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Good news...I picked up the car today and it's much improved-with all six glowplugs now replaced it starts smoothly with no smoke and no lumpy running as it warms up, and with the injection timing set and the idle dialled in correctly (it always idled a little high, but now sits at 950 or just over when cold, dropping to just below 800 when warm) it is much smoother and more driveable. Power is now more progressive, with less sense of turbo lag than before, and the engine feels and sounds very sweet.

In other good news, the driveshaft centre support bearing is fine-it's the rubber mount that has seen better days. The retainer plate mounts that were mentioned in the healthcheck are the split rubber washers that the bolts for the CSB mount plate go through before bolting up to the captive nuts in the chassis rails, presumably for vibration isolation and noise reduction. I seem unable to find them anywhere so have ordered rubber penny washers to replace them. My old 245 didn't have any isolation between the CSB plate and the chassis, so I'm sure these will do!

Jim, in answer to your question, the entire job (supply and fit cambelt, tensioner, idler, injection pump belt, all other ancillary belts, all associated bolts/nuts etc, rocker cover gasket, helicoil kit for sump plug, new sump plug and crush washer, fit glowplugs as supplied by myself and carry out full health check and itemised written "to do list" style report) came out at £732.

The entire job cost me less than I was quoted anywhere else for just the cambelt, and Kings sourced the parts direct from Volvo's Classic Parts Warehouse, so all are genuine Volvo with the exception of one of the V-belts as I recall.

I really can't fault their customer service one iota, I'm not easily impressed (my dad was in the motor trade for 30yrs!) but Kings will have all of my business in the future for jobs too big for me to tackle. They look after two other D24TIC cars other than mine, one of which has done 300k and the other just over 500k, and are genuinely enthusiastic about all varieties of these cars.

The to-do list made for similar reading to the MOT advisories, but they spotted some critical stuff (lower rad hose nearly worn through from chafing on the air con compressor) that wasn't picked up by the MOT and could have killed the car if not addressed, along with some relatively minor bits such as the rear caliper roll pins and spreader plates being knackered and some exhaust rubbers and clamps being either missing or at end-stage of deterioration.

By the time I've done the gearbox and CSB mounts, rad hose, exhaust bits and the minor brake work, the car will only be a gearbox and diff oil change away from being signed off mechanically. From there on in, it's just cosmetic work (roof and bonnet respray) and some tidying of the interior, then we're ready for the summer!
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Old Mar 3rd, 2021, 18:28   #39
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More work done today...changed the bottom radiator hose that had been chafing against the air con compressor for a nice new Gates unit. Perfect fit as expected, I've had great results with Gates kit over the years and this is no different.

I think I caught it just in time as the old one was SO close to being holed. With my crocked temp gauge, if the car had lost its coolant I wouldn't have known until it was too late. Glad to have dodged that bullet!

I lost about 3.5L of coolant in the process of changing the hose of course, but much less than when I changed the thermostat previously and the block disgorged itself of all coolant contents! I filled it back up, let the car warm up with the heater on full and kept topping it up until it was settled.

One question remains...do I need to bleed the system after changing a bottom rad hose? It seems fine as is (heater is hot, coolant level is stable) but obviously if it does need bleeding I'm keen to take care of it asap.
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Old Mar 3rd, 2021, 19:25   #40
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hi phil you have had a very good deal and service from kings , only job while every thing was off the water pump could have been changed if you have no record of last time it was changed but lets stay positive ,i changed my bottom and top hose a few years back due to age .a small tip in the volvo manuel on air in system is to fill up and run engine but disconnect the uppermost hose from the cold start device put a vessel under it and this will avoid air locks coolant will eventually run out so then no air in system , i do it every time i renew coolant about every 3 years genuine 50/50 and its cheap and keeps a healthy engine im told .
regards jim
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