CV Boot/ CV Joint Qs

Nick45 · Feb 22nd, 2021, 22:12

Hi All,

Had the car ('98 V70XC B5254T) up on ramps today changing the oil and noticed that the passenger side front CV boot is badly ripped.

So questions...
How do I know whether its just the boot that needs replacing or whether the joint is now damaged?

If I replace the joint and boot, is there any way to identify the correct part? Prices online seem to vary hugely and some indicate one part fits all variants while others suggest model specific differences. My hope is that they're all the same for the phase 1 V70 petrols but can I be that lucky?!

I will probably take the car to a local garage for the work as I have no experience of this and don't want the car on stands for a week but would like to supply the parts so I have some control of budget.

Any advice gratefully received. Cheers, Nick

DaveNP · Feb 22nd, 2021, 23:26

I don't believe they are all the same, some have a threaded shaft that protrudes through the hub and is fixed with a large nut, others have a threaded hole in the end of the shaft which is fixed with a bolt with a small hex head with a large thick washer.

The usual check for the joint (short of stripping it down, cleaning and inspecting) is any sideways play and any noise or roughness when turning the wheel. If the boot has been badly damaged for any time there's a significant risk that dirt and water will have got into the joint which will cause extra wear so the joint will need rebuilding with fresh grease or replacing.

I replaced the boot on my offside CV joint recently using one of the stretchy type replacements, the damage to the boot was tiny and I didn't fancy taking the joint and shaft apart, as I was replacing the wishbone I could undo the bolt in the end of the shaft and swing the hub away, using the proper cone tool for the stretch boot it went on quite easily.

Talk nicely to your garage before you buy the parts, a lot of them don't like fitting parts they don't supply as they become responsible for the job including problems with those parts, and they can also make a profit on parts they buy in at trade price.

Luxobarge · Feb 23rd, 2021, 08:52

As above, drive slowly at full lock in both directions and if it's all quiet and smooth then the joint is probably OK, but if you get clicking or graunching sounds then it's on its way out. If you keep the original joint, i'd recommend re-packing it with grease though.

ASt85 · Feb 23rd, 2021, 10:26

If it does need replacing give J&R Ltd (https://www.jandrcvjoints.co.uk/ ) on 0121 770 5636 - their prices are highly competitive for excellent quality CV joint and drive shafts.
Their price for new drive shaft and CV joint was only slightly more than our local car parts shed wanted to charge for a CV joint for my previous P2. I doubt whether their pricing would be much different for a P1.

Nick45 · Feb 23rd, 2021, 11:24

This is all really helpful folks, thank you.

For the record, I've just done the full lock test recommended by Luxobarge and I have a bad graunch at full right lock so looks like the passenger side/ nearside joint is goosed as well as the boot.

This is a bit annoying, as looking through the history I see the nearside was replaced last year - unless the offside is doing the graunching and it's just the nearside boot that's gone - didn't get much mileage out of that!

I'll let folks know how I get on.

Feb 22nd, 2021, 22:12	#1
Nick45 Member Last Online: Apr 23rd, 2024 21:07 Join Date: Apr 2014 Location: Huddersfield	CV Boot/ CV Joint Qs Hi All, Had the car ('98 V70XC B5254T) up on ramps today changing the oil and noticed that the passenger side front CV boot is badly ripped. So questions... How do I know whether its just the boot that needs replacing or whether the joint is now damaged? If I replace the joint and boot, is there any way to identify the correct part? Prices online seem to vary hugely and some indicate one part fits all variants while others suggest model specific differences. My hope is that they're all the same for the phase 1 V70 petrols but can I be that lucky?! I will probably take the car to a local garage for the work as I have no experience of this and don't want the car on stands for a week but would like to supply the parts so I have some control of budget. Any advice gratefully received. Cheers, Nick

Feb 22nd, 2021, 23:26	#2
DaveNP Non VOC Member Last Online: Yesterday 21:52 Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: Milton Keynes	I don't believe they are all the same, some have a threaded shaft that protrudes through the hub and is fixed with a large nut, others have a threaded hole in the end of the shaft which is fixed with a bolt with a small hex head with a large thick washer. The usual check for the joint (short of stripping it down, cleaning and inspecting) is any sideways play and any noise or roughness when turning the wheel. If the boot has been badly damaged for any time there's a significant risk that dirt and water will have got into the joint which will cause extra wear so the joint will need rebuilding with fresh grease or replacing. I replaced the boot on my offside CV joint recently using one of the stretchy type replacements, the damage to the boot was tiny and I didn't fancy taking the joint and shaft apart, as I was replacing the wishbone I could undo the bolt in the end of the shaft and swing the hub away, using the proper cone tool for the stretch boot it went on quite easily. Talk nicely to your garage before you buy the parts, a lot of them don't like fitting parts they don't supply as they become responsible for the job including problems with those parts, and they can also make a profit on parts they buy in at trade price. __________________ David V70 2.5 10v Torslanda Manual 98 Sreg

Feb 23rd, 2021, 08:52	#3
Luxobarge Premier Member Last Online: Yesterday 22:43 Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Horne (Nr. Horley)	As above, drive slowly at full lock in both directions and if it's all quiet and smooth then the joint is probably OK, but if you get clicking or graunching sounds then it's on its way out. If you keep the original joint, i'd recommend re-packing it with grease though. __________________ Some people are like Slinkies, they serve no useful purpose but they still bring a smile to your face when you push them downstairs.

Feb 23rd, 2021, 10:26	#4
ASt85 Premier Member Last Online: Yesterday 14:31 Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: Walderslade....Kent	If it does need replacing give J&R Ltd (https://www.jandrcvjoints.co.uk/ ) on 0121 770 5636 - their prices are highly competitive for excellent quality CV joint and drive shafts. Their price for new drive shaft and CV joint was only slightly more than our local car parts shed wanted to charge for a CV joint for my previous P2. I doubt whether their pricing would be much different for a P1. __________________ The saddest moment is when the one who gave you the best memories....becomes a MEMORY V70 SE 2004 2.3L T5 Geartronic, C70 2005 2.0T Automatic, Sold 2.4l 20 Valve Automatic Torslander Sold 854 GLT 20v Auto

Feb 23rd, 2021, 11:24	#5
Nick45 Member Last Online: Apr 23rd, 2024 21:07 Join Date: Apr 2014 Location: Huddersfield	This is all really helpful folks, thank you. For the record, I've just done the full lock test recommended by Luxobarge and I have a bad graunch at full right lock so looks like the passenger side/ nearside joint is goosed as well as the boot. This is a bit annoying, as looking through the history I see the nearside was replaced last year - unless the offside is doing the graunching and it's just the nearside boot that's gone - didn't get much mileage out of that! I'll let folks know how I get on.

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