body valve

[Anubisxc70]

200 XC70 D5 awd.

Hello everyone. Body valve, i guess this is the matter no one likes to talk because we are all scared to face it.
Well my gearbox is not that bad but i have been thinking about it.

Is it hard to do it , replce or even repair the one in the gearbox?

Do we need special tools?

HOw high the car needs to be? Can we do it on ramps, even holding the subframe with a jack, how much clearence we need to open the gearbox?
DO we need to take any parts form the engine? LIke cooloing su«ystem parts?

Once body valve is out will all de oil came out or just the one in the body valve?

Are there outside repair kits?

We need to do adaptation with vida, is it hard?

THis are some of the questions i have , but please if any of you had the experience or anything that might help, Thnak you

Many Thanks

[oragex]

Depending how bad it shifts (assuming the fluid is at least half fresh already), you may want to rather go with solenoids only. Much easier and cheaper.

The tricky part is dropping the subframe as one must be careful with several attached parts. I talk about all details in this video, including the adaptation process. I would also recommend checking the replacement solenoids have the same adjustment as the original ones

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2RJyYRQxbZA

.

[Anubisxc70]

I wonder if rising the engine one foot is not easier and safer ?
Or is not possible?

[oragex]

I put a comment on the video as well, I think it's some extra work, but if someone's about to work on the engine and has to lift it anyway (and has an engine lift), it may be a good moment to give the transmission a refresh. If it's to lift the engine only for the transmission work, it will need to be lifted only a few inches (3-5") in order to clear the two mid bolts of the cover and also to clear the cover itself.

[Anubisxc70]

Ty for your input.
Bare with me this is my opinion, i might be missing some info....

So before lifting we do the 2 lower bolts on the cover and then we lift the engine 3 to 5 inches and we undo the rest of the bolts and cover is off.In your video the cover is removed from the top... Is it possible then to remove the entire body valve?

Besides the engine can be lifted from underneath...after both torque mounts are off and the top nuts of the engine mounts. leaving just the right mount on, that will hold the engine wile it pivots......

In the video we see engine slides to left (if we are facing the car) almost hitting the fuel and power steering pipes because the engine mount was damage already.

If we see the engine pipes, coolant and inter cooler, and the heat pipes they all loop down meaning they can be lifted. My only thing is ...the exhaust because it is connected the turbo to the flexible part of the exhaust maybe it has to be disconnected even so i dont know if it is 3 to 5 clearance to move. maybe it has. the wheels will lower around 7 to 9 inches when the car is raised in the air. meaning transmission will move enough to clear the bolts without taking the driveshaft.

Lowering the sub frame, like in the video only the front bolts were removed so the frame twisted forward...i guess that twist makes more damage than a lifting of the engine.


i just found this....its another video from papermint.... Like the one is mentioned here , please read the comment of awsomeman1987.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Gyp0kbmkobQ

Many Thanks

[jgjones095]

I changed the solenoids on my xc70 a few years ago. Pretty much the same prep as a valvebody swap, it would hace only been a few more bolts and the valve body would have been out.

The engine raised up and subframe lowered slightly.
There is a good written guide here

https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&so...WJGj5Jnazv0Irc

You will also need some O rings and other bits and bobs.

One thing to note is what version your valve body is vs the replacement.
Early models, no casting marks or A have different wiring and solenoid positioning to the later B versions.

Out of intrest where are you getting your valve body from?

[oragex]

As above, the whole valve body will come out just the way the cover did. At 49:55 the valve body is also cleared to move out if needed https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2RJyYRQxbZA

[Anubisxc70]

Ty very much. Jones

Mine is a 2004 XC70

I hope i can learn most of it with your experience.
WHat were the sympthoms on yours? Did they went away after replacement?
IS it worth it?

Mine sometimes does things that the people with knowledge like you guys say its the selenoids.

I am starting now to learn how can i do this. SOme advise just to do the selenoids so i need to know what and where to get them.
I have vida so that will help me to

I will need all the input i can, i have learned alot, since i got my XC one year ago, i love it so i will try my best.

Many Thanks

[jgjones095]

I guess my question would be what does your do?

After I bought my ebay xc70 nearly 5 years ago I collected it from the other side of the country.
Sat on the 2nd day of ownership with the car running for over 30min whilst I read the owners book, I pulled away and the gearbox went clunk and got stuck in 3rd and Limp Mode.
Long story short the box would flare going from 2 to 3 & 3 to 4 and downshifting too. Discovered I had to lift of throttle to change.
I had geartronic so could select and it would be better. She was fine crushing in 5th but any prolonged driving and getting gearbox was an instant Limp Mode and transmission serving required.

I've done:
Gearbox fluid change. And flush with gibbons method. It got better briefly.
Inline tranny oil filter fitted
B4 solenoid cover change... no real difference.
3 big solenoid change. Far better.

It's still no perfect. It drops oil from the pan cover
I dump the sump and replace twice a year.
I recon my levels ain't perfect.
She still flares occasionaly and after a good a/b road journey still goes into Limp Mode occasionally but it's drivable.
I covered over 1k in a week upto, back and round the lake district.

Next plan would be a valve body change bit I can only get a B version.

Plus now my engines leaking slowly from the crank side between engine and box I'm thinking it's time to upgrade the volvo soon......

[oragex]

@ Jones, was the adaptation reset in Vida and then properly relearned with the driving procedure (with the yellow triangle light) afterwards? It is important to perform this step when new solenoids and or valve body (used or new) are installed. The adaptation procedure must also be done during summer days as the fluid must be at temperature (>60C) for the adaptations to be learned (a 'fluid warmed up' message is displayed before the box starts learning the new steps and flashing the yellow triangle).