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700/900 Series General Forum for the Volvo 740, 760, 780, 940, 960 & S/V90 cars |
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Slightly annoying idle speed 1000rpmViews : 1044 Replies : 19Users Viewing This Thread : |
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Feb 18th, 2021, 13:07 | #1 |
Junior Member
Last Online: Mar 21st, 2024 14:32
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: kernow
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Slightly annoying idle speed 1000rpm
When I clutch in at speed the rpms drop slowly to about 1100-1200 then after stopping they normally drop to 1000rpm rather than 800rpm, so i would assume there must be a signal change recieved from the speedo to the ecu. I measured 13vdc at idle on ecu pin 34, I dont know what it should read at idle. I have on two occasions started a warm engine and it initially has idled at 800rpm, once driven the idle increased to 1000rpm. Also interestingly my afr at idle with a warm engine drops to low 13s at times. Mid 14s is what I see most of the time at idle.
I've grounded pins 14, 15 and 30 at the ecu. I'm fairly sure the car is increasing idle speed intentionally. I've set the base idle to 500rpm, tested the throttle switch resistance and it works perfectly, set throttle switch position ok, swapped to a spare iacv, swapped a spare maf, sprayed easy start all around the mani for air leaks (although I did notice that when I pull the vac hose from the fpr and introduce an air leak there is no noticable change in rpm) I assume this is the ecu adjusting the iacv to compensate. I hadn't mentioned already but the car is not standard. Here are the mods that could effect idle but I dont believe they are. AC removed, Vxr injectors, chipped ecu ezk, breather is VTA, V cam, ttv flywheel. Any more insight as to where to look next would be appreciated. |
Feb 18th, 2021, 13:20 | #2 |
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Last Online: Mar 21st, 2024 14:32
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: kernow
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Also have fitted a new bosch coolant temp sensor.
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Feb 18th, 2021, 14:47 | #3 |
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Last Online: Apr 9th, 2024 21:44
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Holywood
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Have you read the codes?
My initial thought is temperature sensor, it thinks its a bit cold. Note there are 2 sensors, one for the gauge and one for the fuel ECU. If you are seeing a decrease when stopping then sounds like the speed sensing is working. Normally this comes from the rear ABS/diff sensor and is a pulsed signal so DC measurement will not indicate much. You need as scope, but the speedo is a perfecly good detector for most issues. If you use full power without speed pulses appearing the fuel ECU will create a limp mode and raise the idle to about 1800rpm. I have seen linkage adjustment and dirty throttle body causing problems, so make sure its clean and maybe pop off the linkage to eliminate adjustment, but sounds like you have ensured it is properly adjusted. |
Feb 18th, 2021, 15:23 | #4 |
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Last Online: Today 01:27
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Location: Lakenheath
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Assuming your AFR is to be believed, it's running a bit rich at idle. What's the current mileage and when was the Lambda sensor last changed, if at all?
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Cheers Dave Next Door to Top-Gun with a Honda CR-V & S Type Jag Volvo gone but not forgotten........ |
Feb 18th, 2021, 22:10 | #5 |
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Last Online: Mar 21st, 2024 14:32
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Location: kernow
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I will need to buy a code reader, i think sombody on the forum sells them.
TB is clean as a whistle. There is ample slack in the linkage that its not possible to get hung up off the throttle stop. The temp sensor is new but i could try the old one to see if its different. The AFRs from cold start and driving are ok. Its only when the engines hot and im idling for a bit that it becomes richer. I swapped a spare lambda sensor in earlier and went for a drive, idle speed is the same though. Need to monitor AFRs. I need to replace my steering rack and pump as the rack leaks and the pump complains, still perfectly drivable but they are not quite right. Is it possible the ps pump could be loading the engine and causing the ecu to compensate? Or am I clutching at straws. |
Feb 19th, 2021, 00:04 | #6 | |
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Last Online: Today 01:27
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Location: Lakenheath
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Quote:
It's possible the PAS system is loading the engine unnecessarily, especially if your rack isn't properly centred in the straight ahead position before wheel alignment took place. That will cause the pump to boil the fluid and eject it from the system, out of the filler cap breather hole if you have an integral pump/reservoir like mine. Also boiling the fluid will cause air pockets and hence cavitation within the pump, not good for the pump, rack or anything else.
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Cheers Dave Next Door to Top-Gun with a Honda CR-V & S Type Jag Volvo gone but not forgotten........ |
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