ATF change AW70 - best way and is there a filter?

[rusty244]

AW70 (3 sp with lockup 4th - the one with PRND21 and o/d button on side)

Finally got some time to work on the 240 and think an ATF change is at the top of the list of things that need doing (of the things I can manage myself anyway) as it's been quite a while since I last changed the fluid.

Last time I undid the drain bolt underneath, a few litres came out and I just refilled with the same amount that came out. I know this is only changing about half the fluid as the other half is sitting in the torque converter.

So:
1) Is there a better way to do this so you can renew all the fluid? I'm thinking along the lines of disconnecting one of the transmission cooler lines that go into the rad, shifting to "D" and allowing the fluid to pump out whilst simultaneously adding new fluid. Or is it just best to do as I did changing the amount of fluid that drains off, running the car then doing the same again (appreciate there will still be some old left doing this but less risky).

2) Is there any sort of renewable filter in the transmission. Haynes doesn't make any mention of it.

Appreciate any pointers!!

[mikealder]

Dump the contents of the autobox sump then refill with fresh fluid then release one of the oil cooler lines from the radiator and run the engine until approx. 2,0L has pumped out (doesn't need to be in D for this) but catch the oil in a measuring jug so you can tell how much has come out, shut down engine and top up with the same amount of fluid as has been pumped out. Keep repeating the engine start, remove 2,0L until the fluid coming out is clean.
I use two identical 2,0L measuring jugs, one for dirty fluid the other for fresh fluid, this way you can put them side by side to see the oil level is the same ensuring you put back in the exact same amount of oil as has been pumped out.
Take the car for a spin 20 Miles or so then check the level of the autobox fluid using the hot side of the dipstick, top up as required - Mike

[rusty244]

Thanks for the speedy response Mike, that sounds like a great way to proceed.

Does it matter which of the cooler lines you disconnect - ie does the fluid pump round in a particular direction?

[minesa240x3]

Good write up but beware the two pipes that go into the radiator are prone to seizing as they screw onto aluminium threads which corrode. They can easily snap clean off the radiator.

When I got my blue 240 it was being sold as it didn't drive any longer?
One of the pipes had sheared off by the radiator and the owner hadn't realised?
Needless to say the small amount of oil left was thinner than water and black. After sourcing a second hand rad and pipes from a breakers I fitted two inline connectors just by the rad. This means I can split the oil lines without the worry of shearing the original threaded bit.

The car is now fine and still plodding along fine. I did once investigate if there was a filter but after removing the gearbox sump and finding the fine gauze mesh I couldn't get all of the bolts in the securing plate out as there were steel pipes in the way.
Regards Brian.

[DW42]

The filter shouldn't need cleaning. After getting an unaffordable quote from an auto trans specialist shop to flush the system, my approach to this job was to use my Pela oil extractor to suck the ATF out of the dipstick tube, then refill with fresh fluid. I repeated this twice, at roughly two week intervals. The ATF is now nice and pink and clear, and has stayed that way for almost a year. From memory, I was able to get about 3 litres out at a time this way, so with repeats of the operation most of the original ATF has been replaced.

[Volvodrivingbiker]

it does say in the auto data book to remove the return pipe and fill gear box with oil run motor and flush old oil through , then reconect and set oil levels again

[tannachyallen]

Originally Posted by DW42

The filter shouldn't need cleaning. After getting an unaffordable quote from an auto trans specialist shop to flush the system, my approach to this job was to use my Pela oil extractor to suck the ATF out of the dipstick tube, then refill with fresh fluid. I repeated this twice, at roughly two week intervals. The ATF is now nice and pink and clear, and has stayed that way for almost a year. From memory, I was able to get about 3 litres out at a time this way, so with repeats of the operation most of the original ATF has been replaced.

I also did the above method. Works really well, the Pela pumps are brilliant. Get the ATF warm (not hot) and you get more out. Buy the ATF in bulk from an manufacturer, not from a motor factors, much cheaper. I got a 20ltr drum from Smith&Allan in Darlington via EBay.

Dave A.

[rusty244]

Thanks for all the advice folks.

The bolts for the ATF lines were disconnected around 6 months ago when I had to have the rad out to have the front crossmember welded so they should undo without too much trouble but will be super careful.

Now need to defer until weekend after next due to a work trip, annoying!

Will post back on progress.

[rusty244]

In fact, something else I have just thought about.

About 10 years ago when I had the radiator replaced, bolt in the rad must have been jammed as section of pipe was cut out and a plastic section of around an inch or two was inserted to rejoin the existing pipework to a new bolt.

Not ideal, but this has been absolutely fine since. Ideally though I would replace the entire length of ATF cooler line. Anyone happen to know if Volvo will retail these?