Engine: 2.3 F/Inj B23E/B230F: Waterpump gasket on 940

[Clan]

Originally Posted by Volvo940GL

Thanks for your reply. I’ll let you know how it goes. But one more question. Does it needs to be compressed with sheer power?

NO not at all ! use a screwdriver against the alternator to lever the waterpump up , you will see the rubber compress as the water pump goes upwards and allows the screws to be fitted .

[Ian21401]

I understand your frustration. The job is supposed to be so straightforward.
I had great difficulty with the replacement pump I fitted on my 940. (I had had the old pump off previously when I had the cylinder head off to have a spark plug hole re threaded and had had no problem replacing it with new seals and obtaining a watertight seal.) The new pump is a genuine Volvo part from my dealer and the only Volvo part that I have ever bought which had “made in UK” on it. A smear of silicone grease on the O ring on the end of the rigid steel pipe which fits into the back of the pump and another smear on the outer side of the cone shaped seal on the top of the pump. Offer up the pump to the block and fit the two bolts through the oval holes (two I think) on the body of the pump. Nip them up gently just to hold the pump in place. Then as, Clan suggested, lever the pump of towards the cylinder head so that the round holes (three I think) line up with the holes in the block then insert those bolts. In theory that should force the upper seal into the cylinder head and form a seal. Then tighten the steel pipe into the back of the pump being careful not to distort the O ring.
BUT, when I did mine I couldn’t lever the pump up far enough for the three round holes to line up with the holes in the block. I tried several times then removed the new pump to compare it with the old one. I found the following:
From the top seal flange to the upper edge of the lowest bolt hole: old pump =111.0 mms. new pump = 112.5 mms.
I refitted the old pump (minus the top seal) : gap between the pump flange and cylinder head: old pump = 1.35 mms. I refitted the new pump (minus the top seal): gap was 1.25 mms.
The old seal was 1.0 mms thick. The new seal 3.0 mms thick.
Eventually I decided that it was impossible to fit the new pump with the new seal so in desperation I decided to fit the new pump with the old top seal. I levered the pump up and bolted it up. No leaks. That was eight years and 56,000 miles ago.

[Volvo940GL]

Originally Posted by Ian21401

I understand your frustration. The job is supposed to be so straightforward.
I had great difficulty with the replacement pump I fitted on my 940. (I had had the old pump off previously when I had the cylinder head off to have a spark plug hole re threaded and had had no problem replacing it with new seals and obtaining a watertight seal.) The new pump is a genuine Volvo part from my dealer and the only Volvo part that I have ever bought which had “made in UK” on it. A smear of silicone grease on the O ring on the end of the rigid steel pipe which fits into the back of the pump and another smear on the outer side of the cone shaped seal on the top of the pump. Offer up the pump to the block and fit the two bolts through the oval holes (two I think) on the body of the pump. Nip them up gently just to hold the pump in place. Then as, Clan suggested, lever the pump of towards the cylinder head so that the round holes (three I think) line up with the holes in the block then insert those bolts. In theory that should force the upper seal into the cylinder head and form a seal. Then tighten the steel pipe into the back of the pump being careful not to distort the O ring.
BUT, when I did mine I couldn’t lever the pump up far enough for the three round holes to line up with the holes in the block. I tried several times then removed the new pump to compare it with the old one. I found the following:
From the top seal flange to the upper edge of the lowest bolt hole: old pump =111.0 mms. new pump = 112.5 mms.
I refitted the old pump (minus the top seal) : gap between the pump flange and cylinder head: old pump = 1.35 mms. I refitted the new pump (minus the top seal): gap was 1.25 mms.
The old seal was 1.0 mms thick. The new seal 3.0 mms thick.
Eventually I decided that it was impossible to fit the new pump with the new seal so in desperation I decided to fit the new pump with the old top seal. I levered the pump up and bolted it up. No leaks. That was eight years and 56,000 miles ago.

Thanks for your reply.

So you’re saying that the oem part seal is smaller than aftermarket. May that be the problem why it leaks? Since I’m using aftermarket. And not originalvolvo. Those oval holes are for compressing the pump upwards? If so, that may be my problem since it leaks from the big seal.

On google images there varieties of gaskets and seals. Some pumps have three gaskets? Mine have two seals? anyways I can try my old pump seal and see how it goes

[Clan]

Originally Posted by Ian21401

I understand your frustration. The job is supposed to be so straightforward.
I had great difficulty with the replacement pump I fitted on my 940. (I had had the old pump off previously when I had the cylinder head off to have a spark plug hole re threaded and had had no problem replacing it with new seals and obtaining a watertight seal.) The new pump is a genuine Volvo part from my dealer and the only Volvo part that I have ever bought which had “made in UK” on it. A smear of silicone grease on the O ring on the end of the rigid steel pipe which fits into the back of the pump and another smear on the outer side of the cone shaped seal on the top of the pump. Offer up the pump to the block and fit the two bolts through the oval holes (two I think) on the body of the pump. Nip them up gently just to hold the pump in place. Then as, Clan suggested, lever the pump of towards the cylinder head so that the round holes (three I think) line up with the holes in the block then insert those bolts. In theory that should force the upper seal into the cylinder head and form a seal. Then tighten the steel pipe into the back of the pump being careful not to distort the O ring.
BUT, when I did mine I couldn’t lever the pump up far enough for the three round holes to line up with the holes in the block. I tried several times then removed the new pump to compare it with the old one. I found the following:
From the top seal flange to the upper edge of the lowest bolt hole: old pump =111.0 mms. new pump = 112.5 mms.
I refitted the old pump (minus the top seal) : gap between the pump flange and cylinder head: old pump = 1.35 mms. I refitted the new pump (minus the top seal): gap was 1.25 mms.
The old seal was 1.0 mms thick. The new seal 3.0 mms thick.
Eventually I decided that it was impossible to fit the new pump with the new seal so in desperation I decided to fit the new pump with the old top seal. I levered the pump up and bolted it up. No leaks. That was eight years and 56,000 miles ago.

The genuine volvo pump ceased production many years ago now , Volvo did / do supply a UK sourced pump to satisfy the tiny demand , Quinton Hazel i believe who were probably overstocked . I would think Volvo still sell the rubber rings though .

Back in those days a lot of parts were made for volvo in the UK , in the late 70's the UK were supplying Volvo Sweden with £50,000,000 worth a year .