2.5 Tdi Auto bad vibration at standstill.

[DieselDoNicely]

I have a 1997 Tdi auto. at idle and standstill the car has a very unpleasant vibration that appeared 18 months ago. If I select drive it gets worse. Volvo dont know whats wrong with it and the car has been looked at by a Volvo technician.

When the car is rolling there is no problem, although it did get louder after the problem appeared.

Anyone had this problem before?

[eddie69]

I do some mechanics but dont claim to be brilliant, have you checked all the engine mountings including the top one which is attached the the bulkhead, i am just going from experiene but no doubt someone will have experienced this and know exactly what it is.

Eddie
850 T5

[warthog]

It sounds like you have a resonance. Old engine mounts can cause this to become a problem. When was the last time your injection timing was checked? As the drive belts wear the timing moves and needs to be regularly monitored. It's one of the items that should be checked at the service.

[DieselDoNicely]

Had the timing belt and all the pulleys changed at at the 80K service point. I was wondering if its some problem with the torque converter in the gear box. Nothing shows up on the Volvo plug in diagnostics computer.

Engine mountings could be it. The car only gets Volvo parts, no motor factor stuff.

[icurnow]

Replaced engine top mount on Friday to try and solve this problem, its made no difference at all. My car is TDI V70 99 with 120K and manual box. Problem is very specific in that it only occures when stationary with foot on foot brake, put handbrake and come of footbrake and resonance instantly goes. My best description of the noise is;

chug chug chug, footbrake, CHUG CHUG CHUG -

no change in pitch or frequency simply by applying brake significant increase in volume. Cam pullies etc have all been done recently, oil changes Saturday - smoother but still giving this problem. Any suggestions will be appreciated, it seem to have come on quiet slowley - any other TDI owners expereincing this?

Ian Curnow

----------------------------
V70 99 TDI

[sholtby]

Ian,

I'm not familiar with your diesel engine but does it have a belt driven vacume pump that provides brake assistance to the master cylinder? I'd check any hoses connected with this system for leaks and the condition of the pump.


With the automatic car, from experience with a non Volvo car. A check you maybe able to make, if there is an inspection panel that can be removed is to check the condition of the flexplate and that all the flexplate to torqueconverter bolts are OK. The flex plate is fitted where you would have a flywheel on a manual car but is far less substantial. Because of this they can crack.
I've had torque converters fail on previous cars and what has happened is that the slip increases. On one car I was doing like 5K revs to get the car to crawl along at 20 mpg as I limped back home. Not too far luckily.

Simon

[DieselDoNicely]

>
>With the automatic car, from experience with a non Volvo car.
>A check you maybe able to make, if there is an inspection
>panel that can be removed is to check the condition of the
>flexplate and that all the flexplate to torqueconverter bolts
>are OK.

Ill see if that can be checked, Im going to start with the engine mountings hopefully this weekend. Would a flexi plate last 30K miles in this condition. Thats how long its been like this.

Derek

[Andy Mcl]

Hi all,
I have a similar problem when queing in traffic at idle - apply brakes and it effectively mis fires - car runs rough. (Car is manual)
It is very intermittent and seems to be worse in warmer weather.
But I've been thinking that this problem is related to the anti stall system that cuts in if you try and brake and accelerate at the same time.
Anti stall as it says that it will prevent the engine from stalling when you apply the brakes while driving forwards.
First thing to check ALL the vacuum pipes - by now they will have hardened and will be degrading (to check this - rub your fingers over the pipes - if they come up black - pipes are foobar)
Recommend you change them for silicon tubing. only a few qiud for a couple of metres - you'll need nearly all that - usually obtainable from good auto stores - or m/sport specialists.
This is the first thing to check then you can start tracing things further back.
Problem on my car is not that bad so you can live with it.
Hope this is of help
Cheers