s60 d5 wishbones

ovlov850 · Jan 30th, 2014, 20:53

Hi guys and gals,

Im looking for a pair of wishbones for my 54 plate s60 d5.
Mot is coming up and the volvo specialist have just quoted me 280 quid including vat and labour....bit steep for my liking and I should be able to fit them myself.

Will consider anything that will make it pass the mot.

Thanks

cheshired5 · Jan 30th, 2014, 21:10

If you're ok with removal and refit, have you considered just rebushing the ones you have?
I'm assuming it's just a bush issue.

ovlov850 · Jan 31st, 2014, 07:21

It had crossed my mind, but with no access to a press I figured it might be difficult.

Add to that the hassle of trying to get the old ones out and I don't know if I won't just be wasting hours of my life just attempting it!

martinrpeachey · Jan 31st, 2014, 07:24

This is a how-to I did on another forum...

If, like me, your Volvo is your only means of transport, and your missus is dead against performance upgrades, When you find that your shocks are shot, the excuse "it's done the bushes in too" could lead you to the following phrase..."It's £160 for a pair of wishbones but I can get a set of polybushes for £33 and they last forever!" I'll start with the bushes because I found doing it all in one go leads to the hub flapping about while you're trying to do something.

So, here goes...

Firstly, tools...

With the wheel off, give everything you're planning to undo, a dam good going over with some Plus-Gas...

Let it soak for a few minutes. The bolts are on the other side of the subframe. On the drivers side (as you see here) These are a pig to undo as there's no room to get a socket on so I used a 17mm ring spanner and a rubber mallet.

Have a jack under the wishbone, just to hold it steady.

Pull the assembly toward you and use something to wedge between the wishbone and the subframe. Giving you access to the bush. You can see how bad this bush is as I can push the rod over to one side with my thumb.

With a 4mm drill, destroy some of the rubber to weaken it a bit...

Grab the rod with a couple of adjustable spanners and turn it in one direction until you hear a crunch. then keep turning and eventually POP, out it comes!

Burn the old rubber off the rod.

So as not to get the rod too hot, burn it for a few minutes then let it cool. Wipe it with a rag and repeat 4 or 5 times until you end up with a clean rod...

In the intervals between burnings, grab a hacksaw and remove the blade. Thread it through the hole in the wishbone and re-attach the handle. Find the square cut out in the remains of the bush-outer and cut through into it. Be careful not to cut the steel sleeve press-fitted into the wishbone.

Now hammer a blunt screwdriver between the bush-outer and the steel sleeve, next to where you cut and twist.

Keep prying the bush into itself and after a while, it will just pull out.

Now, off to the shed with the rod and the new polybush. You can push the rod in part of the way by hand (plenty of copperslip required)

Now put it in a vice and press it about half way, until the bit of the rod that's inside the bush reaches the vice jaw.

Now, with a socket or anything to keep the rod away from the vice jaw (I used 2 little dumbell weights, taped together), press the rod all the way in. You should hear a "pop"

martinrpeachey · Jan 31st, 2014, 07:25

Now, back to the car!
coat the inside of the wishbone hole with good ol' copperslip

Using your socket (dumbell weights) the same way as before, use a G-clamp to push the bush into the hole in the wishbone. It WILL try to go sideways so force the clamp square. You'll see that about half of the lip round the end of the bush goes into the hole. The rest, you have to gently push in with a screwdriver. once the whole end of the bush is in, it will easily press all the way in with the G-clamp.

You'll know it's in when the lip pops out the other side and locks in.

Turn the rod so the rounded side faces the subframe and bolt it back on. AS for torque settings? I did it up as hard as I could by hand with a spanner and tw@tted it twice with a rubber mallet

That's it for the polybush side of things, let me know if I missed anything.

owyn · Jan 31st, 2014, 09:04

Don't forget those bolts that hold the wishbone on are single use , I replaced them when I did mine.
They sort of deform as you fasten them up so they stay tight.

martinrpeachey · Jan 31st, 2014, 09:10

Quote:

Originally Posted by owyn

Don't forget those bolts that hold the wishbone on are single use , I replaced them when I did mine.
They sort of deform as you fasten them up so they stay tight.

Really?

I've had them out 3 times now lol

owyn · Jan 31st, 2014, 10:33

Yup, with the new ones there's sort of a slot in the thread which deforms, this makes it tight to fasten all the way down the thread and means the bolt isn't going anywhere.

Once you've used it the thread closes up and is quite loose in the thread. I did consider using the old bolts and loctite-ing them but my mechanical conscience wouldn't let me so I bought new bolts. It all came to about 20 quid from the dealer for 2 full wishbones and driveshaft bolts worth.

martinrpeachey · Jan 31st, 2014, 10:41

Quote:

Originally Posted by owyn

Yup, with the new ones there's sort of a slot in the thread which deforms, this makes it tight to fasten all the way down the thread and means the bolt isn't going anywhere.

Once you've used it the thread closes up and is quite loose in the thread. I did consider using the old bolts and loctite-ing them but my mechanical conscience wouldn't let me so I bought new bolts. It all came to about 20 quid from the dealer for 2 full wishbones and driveshaft bolts worth.

Aaah, cool.

When I took mine out the first time, they were threadlocked but there wasn't any sign of a modified thread (I fix machinary for a living so look for that sort of thing through habit). Next time I take the wishbones off I'll change the bolts but in fairness, they've not moved at all in 3 years.

ovlov850 · Feb 3rd, 2014, 22:07

Thanks for the guide!
I am half tempted to have a crack, but given the weather lately and the fact i dont even have access to something as simple as a vice at the moment, I am reluctant to have a go at this.

I contacted my local specialist, as they have done all the work on the car previous, and I asked how much they would charge me to fit the polys and they quoted £70 if i supply parts......

That seems decidedly reasonable, seeing as they quoted me something like £275 for their parts (no doubt lemforder or something with 2 year guarantee)....so i may just go down this route if push comes to shove.

They can do it the same time as the MOT then and save me the world of pain, as they usually give me a courtesy car too.

Jan 30th, 2014, 20:53	#1
ovlov850 Junior Member Last Online: Dec 30th, 2023 15:11 Join Date: Oct 2012 Location: Neath, Swansea	s60 d5 wishbones Hi guys and gals, Im looking for a pair of wishbones for my 54 plate s60 d5. Mot is coming up and the volvo specialist have just quoted me 280 quid including vat and labour....bit steep for my liking and I should be able to fit them myself. Will consider anything that will make it pass the mot. Thanks

Jan 30th, 2014, 21:10	#2
cheshired5 Premier Member Last Online: Dec 26th, 2021 13:42 Join Date: Dec 2013 Location: Crewe	If you're ok with removal and refit, have you considered just rebushing the ones you have? I'm assuming it's just a bush issue. __________________ 2002 S60 SE D5 Manual 209000 miles

Jan 31st, 2014, 07:24	#4
martinrpeachey Premier Member Last Online: Jul 18th, 2018 07:30 Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: poole	This is a how-to I did on another forum... If, like me, your Volvo is your only means of transport, and your missus is dead against performance upgrades, When you find that your shocks are shot, the excuse "it's done the bushes in too" could lead you to the following phrase..."It's £160 for a pair of wishbones but I can get a set of polybushes for £33 and they last forever!" I'll start with the bushes because I found doing it all in one go leads to the hub flapping about while you're trying to do something. So, here goes... Firstly, tools... With the wheel off, give everything you're planning to undo, a dam good going over with some Plus-Gas... Let it soak for a few minutes. The bolts are on the other side of the subframe. On the drivers side (as you see here) These are a pig to undo as there's no room to get a socket on so I used a 17mm ring spanner and a rubber mallet. Have a jack under the wishbone, just to hold it steady. Pull the assembly toward you and use something to wedge between the wishbone and the subframe. Giving you access to the bush. You can see how bad this bush is as I can push the rod over to one side with my thumb. With a 4mm drill, destroy some of the rubber to weaken it a bit... Grab the rod with a couple of adjustable spanners and turn it in one direction until you hear a crunch. then keep turning and eventually POP, out it comes! Burn the old rubber off the rod. So as not to get the rod too hot, burn it for a few minutes then let it cool. Wipe it with a rag and repeat 4 or 5 times until you end up with a clean rod... In the intervals between burnings, grab a hacksaw and remove the blade. Thread it through the hole in the wishbone and re-attach the handle. Find the square cut out in the remains of the bush-outer and cut through into it. Be careful not to cut the steel sleeve press-fitted into the wishbone. Now hammer a blunt screwdriver between the bush-outer and the steel sleeve, next to where you cut and twist. Keep prying the bush into itself and after a while, it will just pull out. Now, off to the shed with the rod and the new polybush. You can push the rod in part of the way by hand (plenty of copperslip required) Now put it in a vice and press it about half way, until the bit of the rod that's inside the bush reaches the vice jaw. Now, with a socket or anything to keep the rod away from the vice jaw (I used 2 little dumbell weights, taped together), press the rod all the way in. You should hear a "pop" __________________ 310.2bhp, 333ft/lb, 19T powered ex-plod with 224,000 miles

Jan 31st, 2014, 07:25	#5
martinrpeachey Premier Member Last Online: Jul 18th, 2018 07:30 Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: poole	Now, back to the car! coat the inside of the wishbone hole with good ol' copperslip Using your socket (dumbell weights) the same way as before, use a G-clamp to push the bush into the hole in the wishbone. It WILL try to go sideways so force the clamp square. You'll see that about half of the lip round the end of the bush goes into the hole. The rest, you have to gently push in with a screwdriver. once the whole end of the bush is in, it will easily press all the way in with the G-clamp. You'll know it's in when the lip pops out the other side and locks in. Turn the rod so the rounded side faces the subframe and bolt it back on. AS for torque settings? I did it up as hard as I could by hand with a spanner and tw@tted it twice with a rubber mallet That's it for the polybush side of things, let me know if I missed anything. __________________ 310.2bhp, 333ft/lb, 19T powered ex-plod with 224,000 miles

Jan 31st, 2014, 09:04	#6
owyn Premier Member Last Online: Feb 9th, 2020 20:04 Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Doncaster	Don't forget those bolts that hold the wishbone on are single use , I replaced them when I did mine. They sort of deform as you fasten them up so they stay tight. __________________ ex police V70 T5 '53' loadsa miles! Now gone ex police V70 T5 '07'. Now gone I have now left the stable and have an Audi

Jan 31st, 2014, 07:21	#3
ovlov850 Junior Member Last Online: Dec 30th, 2023 15:11 Join Date: Oct 2012 Location: Neath, Swansea	It had crossed my mind, but with no access to a press I figured it might be difficult. Add to that the hassle of trying to get the old ones out and I don't know if I won't just be wasting hours of my life just attempting it!

Jan 31st, 2014, 10:33	#8
owyn Premier Member Last Online: Feb 9th, 2020 20:04 Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Doncaster	Yup, with the new ones there's sort of a slot in the thread which deforms, this makes it tight to fasten all the way down the thread and means the bolt isn't going anywhere. Once you've used it the thread closes up and is quite loose in the thread. I did consider using the old bolts and loctite-ing them but my mechanical conscience wouldn't let me so I bought new bolts. It all came to about 20 quid from the dealer for 2 full wishbones and driveshaft bolts worth. __________________ ex police V70 T5 '53' loadsa miles! Now gone ex police V70 T5 '07'. Now gone I have now left the stable and have an Audi

Feb 3rd, 2014, 22:07	#10
ovlov850 Junior Member Last Online: Dec 30th, 2023 15:11 Join Date: Oct 2012 Location: Neath, Swansea	Thanks for the guide! I am half tempted to have a crack, but given the weather lately and the fact i dont even have access to something as simple as a vice at the moment, I am reluctant to have a go at this. I contacted my local specialist, as they have done all the work on the car previous, and I asked how much they would charge me to fit the polys and they quoted £70 if i supply parts...... That seems decidedly reasonable, seeing as they quoted me something like £275 for their parts (no doubt lemforder or something with 2 year guarantee)....so i may just go down this route if push comes to shove. They can do it the same time as the MOT then and save me the world of pain, as they usually give me a courtesy car too.

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