XC70 2009 Cruise control and windscreen washer problems

[SalineBoy]

Returning to the fold after driver a Saab for 18 months! Purchased a 2009 XC70 last month and have noticed a couple of niggling problems :

1. Driver side windscreen washer only dribbles when activated. Passenger side works ok, wipers do their thing. Washer bottle seems to empty rather quickly so I've clearly a leak somewhere. Looking at the underside of the bonnet I see the tubes and some electrical connection. Are these wee connections solenoids to open the jets? If that is the case is it simply a matter of a new jet/connection?

2. Cruise control stopped working yesterday. The icon appears but pressing the + button doesn't set the speed. As this is an automatic, is this the equivalent of the clutch sensor failing on a manual or do I look somewhere else?

So, so good driving a Volvo again!!!!

TIA

[bobsy852]

Presuming the windscreen washers are the same as the V70 they're a pretty simple system.

One pump fitted to the washer bottle (located behind the bumper in front of the passenger side front wheel) has two pipes connected to it. One for the front windscreen, the other for the rear window. The pipe for the windscreen washers is a single pipe which rises up behind the wheel arch. This feeds the passenger side washer jet first, then the drivers side.

I've had a lot of trouble with mine.

Possible issue 1:
One of the main causes is using cheap washer fluid. This seems to congeal within the washer bottle. There is then a rubber filter/grommet over the inlet to the pump which clogs up with all the congealed fluid preventing enough water flow to the pump = weak washer jets.
Simple enough job to fix, remove the wheel & arch liner to access the washer bottle.
Pull the pump out (you will then lose 99% of the fluid in the bottle), clean the filter and reinstate. Then use pure water for a couple of weeks before switching to Volvo or other expensive washer fluid.

Tip: if it's the pump/filter it usually makes the rear wiper

Possible issue 2:
A clog in the pipework or nozzel. If you disconnect the pipework from the passenger side washer jet underside of the bonnet you can blow through it, you should hear bubbles in the washer bottle.
Disconnect the short length between the two washer nozzels to check this is clear (you'll have to disconnect it at both ends as you can't blow through the nozzels on the bonnet for some reason).

Finally, try and carefully clear the nozzels on the bonnet with something (I used a safety pin). You can't adjust them in any way and there isn't a hole like old fashioned windscreen washers but I did my best. If you have access to some compressed air this may do a better job.

HTH

[1monkey600]

Originally Posted by SalineBoy

Returning to the fold after driver a Saab for 18 months! Purchased a 2009 XC70 last month and have noticed a couple of niggling problems :

1. Driver side windscreen washer only dribbles when activated. Passenger side works ok, wipers do their thing. Washer bottle seems to empty rather quickly so I've clearly a leak somewhere. Looking at the underside of the bonnet I see the tubes and some electrical connection. Are these wee connections solenoids to open the jets? If that is the case is it simply a matter of a new jet/connection?

2. Cruise control stopped working yesterday. The icon appears but pressing the + button doesn't set the speed. As this is an automatic, is this the equivalent of the clutch sensor failing on a manual or do I look somewhere else?

So, so good driving a Volvo again!!!!

TIA

The electrical connections are for the heaters - the jets are'open' all the time. Spraying is determined simply by pressure from the pump.

[tommyweaves]

Re: Washers

It's worth noting that the plastic junctions near your nozzles, into which the rubber pipes fit, are one way valves. Don't go sticking things in there to try and clear any imaginary blockages! Incidentally, you won't be able to blow through them without giving yourself a hernia, don't know why, it just doesn't work!

To remove the nozzle: Remove the rubber grommet underneath where the nozzle is located. Unplug the nozzle heater electrical connection. Disconnect the rubber hose. The nozzle itself is removed/fitted from the top of the bonnet. There is a plastic clip which is part of the nozzle that you need to squeeze inwards (I used long nosed pliers) to release the nozzle. I have attached a picture so you can work out where the retaining clip is located. Give the nozzle a good soak in some strong limescale remover. It might help.

[SalineBoy]

Thanks Lads, I'll have a wee look tomorrow.

[tommyweaves]

If I was going to do a diagnosis/fault-find on mine again (for lower performance on the driver side than the passenger side), I'd take the following steps, in this order:

(This is written for the complete novice, I'm not trying to patronise anyone!)

Bear in mind this is a hydraulic system with a single common source of pressure. The windscreen washer system depends on equal resistance of components on both sides of the car to work effectively. So, if a nozzle is blocked on one side the fluid will take the easier path of going out the other side. If the one way valves are not working equally, then the same will happen - fluid will go through the easier valve.

1. Get a willing assistant and set aside 30 minutes.

2. Remove both washer nozzles - see ealier post in this thread, then (without re-fitting them in the bonnet) reconnect the pipes but swap the nozzles over. No need to reconnect the electrical plugs. Hold both nozzles with jets facing away from you and ask assistant to activate washers. Is the driver side now better than the passenger side? If so, clean out or replace badly performing nozzle. If same result than go to step 3.

3. Check rubber tube that runs between both nozzles for blockage or leaks. This is easy to remove and can be blown through to check for blockage. For leakage test - keep tube connected to passenger side but crimp or hold thumb firmly over the driver side end. (You need the full pressure of the pump to show up any leaks so don't skip this part.) Make sure tube is dry on outside and then ask assistant to activate washers while you look for leaks along the length of the tube or at t-junction piece near passenger side nozzle. If leaking then replace rubber tube.

4. If all the above hasn't cured the problem then replace both plastic junctions (plastic t-piece one way valve on the passenger side, and 90 degree plastic one way valve on driver side)

5. If your washers now work as expected, make some tea. If not, let me know what the fix was!

[apersson850]

If the cruise control can't engage, it could be one of the switches on the brake pedal.
When you start the engine, can you just give the START button a quick press, and the car will do the whole start procedure on its own, or do you have to hold the START button down until the engine starts?

I'm asking because that's one side effect of a malfunctioning brake pedal switch.