Alternator Removal

smarkc · Jun 25th, 2017, 09:49

Hi there,

Seems to be one thing after another lately.... recently total loss of electrics - I cleaned up all connections and replaced the electrical portion of the ignition barrel and touch wood after a week no further issues. However yesterday the battery charge failure light came on whilst driving and remained on. I can see from the battery condition indicator on the battery that it does indeed need a charge.

looking at the Haynes manual this mostly points to a failed alternator. I don't have the equipment to test the alternator so for me a straight swap is the route I will go (off to the scrappy tomorrow).

Now looking at the alternator (I have a mk1 2000 classic non turbo) I'm scratching my head at the removal process and where the bolts etc. are. The Haynes manual seems to have scrimped on the instructions.

Various youtube vids talk about removing the power steering pump and draining the coolant system - however this is for the earlier v70 and also the mk2 v70 but not my late mk1.

Any tips/pointers please?

(just in-case it's relevant I have upgraded my radio to the SC-901 and the under seat amplifier 4 days ago).

cheshired5 · Jun 25th, 2017, 10:54

Why not just test with a multimeter?
You may only need a brush pack.

smarkc · Jun 25th, 2017, 20:35

I've managed to get the alternator out....

Remove auxiliary belt.

Remove the wire connections to the alternator

Remove the top alternator bolt - accessible from the pulley side

Remove the top two a.c. compressor bolts

Loosen the bottom two

Disconnect the power steering 'metal pipe' don't loose the seal washer and move to one side

Disconnect the radiator side top hose

And wiggle it out.

Hopefully I will be able to get a replacement tomorrow and that the issue will be fixed.

I don't have a multimeter so wasn't able to test.

cheshired5 · Jun 25th, 2017, 23:06

Quote:

Originally Posted by smarkc

I don't have a multimeter so wasn't able to test.

A suitable multimeter is £3 but each to their own.

Alternators in and of themselves don't really fail and can be given new life very cheaply.
There are simple to follow testing videos on my YouTube channel and include brush pack replacement.

Richard_TD · Jun 26th, 2017, 07:28

You really should get a meter, guesswork can get expensive.

Although they start at £3 I would suggest buying something like this one from Maplin at £15 http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/amprobe-di...y-tester-a48wb It's autoranging, uses AAA batteries, switches itself off automatically and is sturdier than the really cheap ones.

smarkc · Jun 26th, 2017, 12:55

Thanks to those suggesting a multimeter. I will look to buy one and take the time to learn how to use and diagnose issues.

As for now the replacement alternator is in and all working fine. Cost was £27.50.

Jun 25th, 2017, 09:49	#1
smarkc Member Last Online: Mar 19th, 2022 22:14 Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: dorset	Alternator Removal Hi there, Seems to be one thing after another lately.... recently total loss of electrics - I cleaned up all connections and replaced the electrical portion of the ignition barrel and touch wood after a week no further issues. However yesterday the battery charge failure light came on whilst driving and remained on. I can see from the battery condition indicator on the battery that it does indeed need a charge. looking at the Haynes manual this mostly points to a failed alternator. I don't have the equipment to test the alternator so for me a straight swap is the route I will go (off to the scrappy tomorrow). Now looking at the alternator (I have a mk1 2000 classic non turbo) I'm scratching my head at the removal process and where the bolts etc. are. The Haynes manual seems to have scrimped on the instructions. Various youtube vids talk about removing the power steering pump and draining the coolant system - however this is for the earlier v70 and also the mk2 v70 but not my late mk1. Any tips/pointers please? (just in-case it's relevant I have upgraded my radio to the SC-901 and the under seat amplifier 4 days ago).

Jun 25th, 2017, 10:54	#2
cheshired5 Premier Member Last Online: Dec 26th, 2021 13:42 Join Date: Dec 2013 Location: Crewe	Why not just test with a multimeter? You may only need a brush pack. __________________ 2002 S60 SE D5 Manual 209000 miles

Jun 26th, 2017, 07:28	#5
Richard_TD Master Member Last Online: Mar 13th, 2020 17:15 Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Fife	You really should get a meter, guesswork can get expensive. Although they start at £3 I would suggest buying something like this one from Maplin at £15 http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/amprobe-di...y-tester-a48wb It's autoranging, uses AAA batteries, switches itself off automatically and is sturdier than the really cheap ones. __________________ 1996 Volvo 855 2.5 20V GLT

Jun 25th, 2017, 20:35	#3
smarkc Member Last Online: Mar 19th, 2022 22:14 Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: dorset	I've managed to get the alternator out.... Remove auxiliary belt. Remove the wire connections to the alternator Remove the top alternator bolt - accessible from the pulley side Remove the top two a.c. compressor bolts Loosen the bottom two Disconnect the power steering 'metal pipe' don't loose the seal washer and move to one side Disconnect the radiator side top hose And wiggle it out. Hopefully I will be able to get a replacement tomorrow and that the issue will be fixed. I don't have a multimeter so wasn't able to test.

Jun 26th, 2017, 12:55	#6
smarkc Member Last Online: Mar 19th, 2022 22:14 Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: dorset	Thanks to those suggesting a multimeter. I will look to buy one and take the time to learn how to use and diagnose issues. As for now the replacement alternator is in and all working fine. Cost was £27.50.

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