V50 Electrics : Door drivers lock actuator failure

[Safaridisco]

Volvo V 50 & S40 door lock actuator failure
This is for a keyless 2009/10model drivers door.
Problem:--Keyfob opens/locks ALL but the drivers door FAILS. Diagnosed as a failure in the lock actuator module.
Volvo cost unit £220 plus same again for fitting – so expensive £500+
Any confident and reasonable mechanic can probably fix the problem as its probably NOT the electronics but an actuator arm out of its socket.
So be prepared for a multi stage process to get to the actuator module and about 2 hrs to remove unit. One hr to replace.

Stage 1 Put all windows up
Remove drivers door switch assembly—look this up on Youtube – simple and remove electrical plug- keep unit handy as you reuse it to lower the window in stage 2

Stage 2 Remove inner door trim panel.
Behind the switch cavity in the door there are two torx bolts fixing it to the door frame-remove and store.
Door trim panel-- just levers off the frame –its on spring pegs all around rim. Start at the bottom and peel off.
Disconnect the main cable plug from door hinge area- It has a release catch on top- lift it 3-4 cms and plug releases. Don’t close the door as it will the loose crush plug
Release door opening cable , and locking switch plug. Plugs to speaker etc
Lever-off two 2cm rubber caps front and rear of door to give access to the bottom window beam.
Replug door switch assembly and drop window glass by 2/3 –look in the access holes for the window clamps. Window is clamped with two compression clamps – slacken both by 2 turns to release the glass. (On assembly drop glass into clips and retighten)
Lift the window glass to the top and tape securely. Unplug switch assembly- store away.

Stage 3 Release locking mechanism. At door end remove lock 3 torx bolts and one screw at lower part of door.
Lever off top rubber plug, insert a extended torx driver (5 cm long) at an angle towards the outside lock unit and undo about 5 times. This releases the outside lock mechanism which pulls out. Release the handle and the screw under the front end of the handle.

Stage 4 Remove the bolts holding aluminium cover (8).
Sit on the car door sill and pull the aluminium plate out- and fiddle downwards and all the units come out. (still has a cable attached to the hinge bulkhead)
The lock mechanism is on a plastic matrix cradle with the door handle key-lock mechanism.
Put your hand into the door cavity hinges area and release the main cable.- (release catch on the top of the plug.) Pull whole aluminium plate free to a bench.

Stage 5 Plastic matrix with all the locks are attached with three plastic taper plugs. I drilled the centre and pulled the plugs out with a self-tapper screw. Matrix come free. ( can use a short bolt to reassemble)

Stage 6. Drill out the rivet and undo all the obvious screws to release the locking mechanisms.. no danger here its very simple –remember the alignment of the units.
There is a metal shield and an aluminium plate to come off and then the locking mechanism. Multi plug is strapped on. Release and unclip cables.

Stage 7 When you take the metal lock mechanism off it has a plastic lever which fits into the actuator socket. May be this is mis-aligned . check for damage and reposition on re-assembly.

Stage 8 If you have to/want to disassemble the actuator units –(its easy no traps or springs). 5 screws and a plastic lever which springs off carefully- flat screwdriver under the plastic white cap then again on the white lever—don’t break it. (Watch alignment of the key-tabs on reassembly)
Inside actuator is some printed circuit tapes-two motors on screw drives – a set of simple gears and a couple of sliders.. check and grease up with light grease and reassemble—test levers to see the lock working freely.
One operates the lock and the other an ‘override’ when locked- simple stuff

Stage 9 Reassemble in reverse order. The riveted joint is easily replaced by a lock bolt and nut and the three taper plugs in stage 5 with a short fat screw and nut if they are loose.
You can test when all assembled on the aluminium frame by plugging into the door plug.

You’ve just saved yourself £500…. bingo good luck

[noney82]

Excellent write up, thank you for sharing

[ThomasAO]

Originally Posted by Safaridisco

Volvo V 50 & S40 door lock actuator failure
This is for a keyless 2009/10model drivers door.
Problem:--Keyfob opens/locks ALL but the drivers door FAILS. Diagnosed as a failure in the lock actuator module.
Volvo cost unit £220 plus same again for fitting – so expensive £500+
Any confident and reasonable mechanic can probably fix the problem as its probably NOT the electronics but an actuator arm out of its socket.
So be prepared for a multi stage process to get to the actuator module and about 2 hrs to remove unit. One hr to replace.

Stage 1 Put all windows up
Remove drivers door switch assembly—look this up on Youtube – simple and remove electrical plug- keep unit handy as you reuse it to lower the window in stage 2

Stage 2 Remove inner door trim panel.
Behind the switch cavity in the door there are two torx bolts fixing it to the door frame-remove and store.
Door trim panel-- just levers off the frame –its on spring pegs all around rim. Start at the bottom and peel off.
Disconnect the main cable plug from door hinge area- It has a release catch on top- lift it 3-4 cms and plug releases. Don’t close the door as it will the loose crush plug
Release door opening cable , and locking switch plug. Plugs to speaker etc
Lever-off two 2cm rubber caps front and rear of door to give access to the bottom window beam.
Replug door switch assembly and drop window glass by 2/3 –look in the access holes for the window clamps. Window is clamped with two compression clamps – slacken both by 2 turns to release the glass. (On assembly drop glass into clips and retighten)
Lift the window glass to the top and tape securely. Unplug switch assembly- store away.

Stage 3 Release locking mechanism. At door end remove lock 3 torx bolts and one screw at lower part of door.
Lever off top rubber plug, insert a extended torx driver (5 cm long) at an angle towards the outside lock unit and undo about 5 times. This releases the outside lock mechanism which pulls out. Release the handle and the screw under the front end of the handle.

Stage 4 Remove the bolts holding aluminium cover (8).
Sit on the car door sill and pull the aluminium plate out- and fiddle downwards and all the units come out. (still has a cable attached to the hinge bulkhead)
The lock mechanism is on a plastic matrix cradle with the door handle key-lock mechanism.
Put your hand into the door cavity hinges area and release the main cable.- (release catch on the top of the plug.) Pull whole aluminium plate free to a bench.

Stage 5 Plastic matrix with all the locks are attached with three plastic taper plugs. I drilled the centre and pulled the plugs out with a self-tapper screw. Matrix come free. ( can use a short bolt to reassemble)

Stage 6. Drill out the rivet and undo all the obvious screws to release the locking mechanisms.. no danger here its very simple –remember the alignment of the units.
There is a metal shield and an aluminium plate to come off and then the locking mechanism. Multi plug is strapped on. Release and unclip cables.

Stage 7 When you take the metal lock mechanism off it has a plastic lever which fits into the actuator socket. May be this is mis-aligned . check for damage and reposition on re-assembly.

Stage 8 If you have to/want to disassemble the actuator units –(its easy no traps or springs). 5 screws and a plastic lever which springs off carefully- flat screwdriver under the plastic white cap then again on the white lever—don’t break it. (Watch alignment of the key-tabs on reassembly)
Inside actuator is some printed circuit tapes-two motors on screw drives – a set of simple gears and a couple of sliders.. check and grease up with light grease and reassemble—test levers to see the lock working freely.
One operates the lock and the other an ‘override’ when locked- simple stuff

Stage 9 Reassemble in reverse order. The riveted joint is easily replaced by a lock bolt and nut and the three taper plugs in stage 5 with a short fat screw and nut if they are loose.
You can test when all assembled on the aluminium frame by plugging into the door plug.

You’ve just saved yourself £500…. bingo good luck

Thanks for that write up, did you have any issues with the window not working properly after refitting? Mine doesnt seem to be going up fully and like the motor is struggling to get it up

[V8XCV]

Originally Posted by ThomasAO

Thanks for that write up, did you have any issues with the window not working properly after refitting? Mine doesnt seem to be going up fully and like the motor is struggling to get it up

Sounds like it is not aligned when you reattached it to the arms, make sure it is not too far forwards or backwards. I also put some silicone grease in the window runners helps a lot with smoothing it out.

[ThomasAO]

Originally Posted by V8XCV

Sounds like it is not aligned when you reattached it to the arms, make sure it is not too far forwards or backwards. I also put some silicone grease in the window runners helps a lot with smoothing it out.

I put it in exactly the same position on the runners, the dirt on the bottom of the glass helped with this actually. i will try the silicone grease in the runners though, thanks.