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700/900 Series General Forum for the Volvo 740, 760, 780, 940, 960 & S/V90 cars |
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940 original radio does nothing - replace or fix?Views : 2635 Replies : 32Users Viewing This Thread : |
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May 10th, 2020, 11:37 | #11 |
bob12
Last Online: May 2nd, 2024 18:58
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Assuming you have an external amp fitted in the usual place up amongst the wiring behind the dash on a strength strut above you right knee you will have to by pass that as all the speakers wires come from that to the various speakers
What you wanted was an Autoleads PC2-19-4 Car Stereo Harmess with amplifier baypass lead for 740/760/940/960/850 etc. You will find them on eBay etc and, can view details on Autoleads website. It comes with all compatible plugs/sockets to connect to the existing loom plugs/sockets. Bob. |
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May 10th, 2020, 15:16 | #12 | |
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https://www.dndservices.co.uk/COD/?T...odel_name=7494 Re the external amp and sound quality the link below suggests the CR-906 has a built in amplifier - so hopefully the speaker wiring is straight forward. I haven't looked for an external amplifier yet - seems likely that there will not be one in my car. https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showt...t=99183&page=2 Also indicates that it's got a fairly healthy power output. Given this and the features it includes I'd expect it to sound at least OK. Plan a is to try to get a code number based on the VIN. If that fails I'll have a look at the diodes. If I can't get it working I'll look at fitting a replacement. |
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May 10th, 2020, 15:34 | #13 | |
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Depending on your excat door cards, usually 13cm (5.25") coaxial or triaxial speakers will fit straight in but they need a slim voice coil and magnet so as they avoid the window mechanism. You can buy adaptor rings to mount them or even spacers (about twice the price of the adaptors) to make life easier as they have an odd screw pattern : https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VOLVO-740...5/290388292676 Hope you can find something to suit!
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May 10th, 2020, 16:20 | #14 | |
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With my track record for swapping cars it's probably best not to plough too much money or time into improvements. Main thing is to keep it on the road. Would be nice to have some tunes though. 20 watts is plenty for me, thanks. My comment was that it was a healthy output by the standards of the day. Today perhaps you might expect more like 50 watts but in practice there's not loads in it - 100 watts is only twice as loud as 10 watts. |
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May 10th, 2020, 20:18 | #15 | |
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Most of the OE speakers i've seen in Volvos still have the (much older design) paper support so any rot in the paper cone also happens to the support too. It's possible the later 9xx models have foam but i don't think i've seen any. While what you say about 100 Vs 10W is correct in theory, in practice with todays levels of traffic and other background noise, what would have been perfectly acceptable 30 +/-5 years ago isn't necessarily acceptable now. Also factor in that as you turn the volume up so you can still hear your music above the higher ambient noise levels, so the THD (Total Harmonic Distortion for those not familiar) rises exponentially. To that end, in my other beast i have an amp in the back to boost the OE spec from 25W RMS per channel to 75W RMS per channel, with the fronts still on the original outputs. This means i can get it louder without hitting THD too soon. This is relevant as i've installed the same head unit and 6 disc changer in my 760 and that really needs an amplifier in it too. I have aftermarket speakers in my other car front and rear and aftermarket speakers in the front doors of the Volvo. For some reason the rears seem to have fared better over the years than the fronts that came out with no cones or supports left! The Volvo and my other car front speakers are the same, triaxial 13cm, 80W RMS jobbbies (cheap make but do the job) and the rears in my other car are 6.5" (soon to hopefully be changed for 8") triaxial beasts. With that said, i recently upgraded/updated the head unit in my other beast to a modern one that as well as having built in BlueTooth (and a hands free phone mic) boasts 45W x 4 but a bit of investigation suggests that is the oft-misquoted "music power" and the real output is 25W RMS per channel as it's about the same sound output as the original, just a bit clearer with less THD when turned up. The BT capability means i can store music on the SD card in my phone so i don't need to keep changing CDs in the 6-disc changer, any calls coming in are handsfree and played through the car speakers and if i happen to be using the sat-nag on the phone, any instructions from that come over the car speakers as well.
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May 10th, 2020, 20:55 | #16 | |
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In the front at least, my car is fitted with a pair of 6" paper cone drivers with foam surrounds and a little mylar tweeter in the middle. Riveted in place so obviously OE. I haven't looked in the back, but there seem to be some tweeters or something in the dash. Overall setup looks not too bad to me. Is a later car. Last edited by marm; May 10th, 2020 at 20:58. |
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May 10th, 2020, 21:59 | #17 | |
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At first glance i thought i was wrong and that they had foam supports. Closer inspection revealed it was an impreganted material, perhaps polyurethane or similar. Given the state of the others i removed with paper supports, i suspect these were renewed by Volvo at some point in the cars life. Thing is, the OE speakers were pretty low level and barely capable when new. I understand the cars under Fords complete ownership (1999 on) had much better audio systems built to a quality level rather than a cost. Many were Sony with 6 disc CD changers built in to double DIN head units. I think also better speakers were fitted.
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May 11th, 2020, 22:46 | #18 |
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Why are they rubbish? If i'm using a decent HU (SR-701) with an external amp and a BT module then how is it inferior to modern decks that you by at your local department store? Okay, ergonomics is an issue as you cannot control everything from your phone but classic periood correct looks count for something as well!
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May 12th, 2020, 00:46 | #19 | |
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I can say this hand on heart as it's exactly what i've recently done and i was very glad i did! Vast improvement in sound quality, clarity, radio reception (despite the original being tuned to the antenna system built into the car with diplexed FM and AM outputs from the antenna to the head unit and different front ends in the OE unit to maximise the advantage and only using the FM antenna for everything on the new unit) and general reproduction. Also as the case was for my original sound system, the fact it was getting older and components were becoming out of tolerance (both mechanically and electrically), the quality of the output had dropped, as had the functionality of it.
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May 13th, 2020, 18:58 | #20 |
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Right, well, I got the code by emailing the guy in the link I posted earlier...top stuff!
...code worked ...but stereo didn't - display and buttons functioned but no sound from the radio and tapes not turning. I'm going to fit an aftermarket unit. Got a few to choose from. Fingers crossed that the ebay adapter works - when it finally arrives. Fingers crossed it should be straight forward as I don't think I have an external amp. No rush to sort it as I can't drive anywhere anyway... |
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