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XC90 V8 - Hot air problem ( or I should say no hot air! )

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Old Nov 23rd, 2018, 16:15   #11
cassell
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I had a similar problem with an XC90 I once owned and from memory this was the cure for mine if my fading memory serves me correctly!

On the centre console panel just to the left of the seat heater and rear screen buttons is a small three-slot aperture with a VERY delicate temperature sensing bulb behind it. Mine was clogged with years worth of fluff and dust.

I gently teased the fluff out with a small modellers paint brush and carefully vacuum cleaned the aperture until it was perfectly clean. Hey presto, the car's heater worked perfectly afterwards. I recall that this small sensor is fooled into thinking the car is hot when it becomes clogged and electronically shuts down the cabin heater?

Worth a try!
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Old Nov 23rd, 2018, 16:22   #12
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On the centre console panel just to the left of the seat heater and rear screen buttons is a small three-slot aperture with a VERY delicate temperature sensing bulb behind it. Mine was clogged with years worth of fluff and dust.
If properly diagnosed with VIDA this issue should have been immediately obvious

The internal cabin temperature is of course a critical parameter in ensuring the heater works properly
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Old Nov 23rd, 2018, 21:51   #13
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When I met with the kind VOC member Dave who had VIDA and we picked fluff out of said hole, but this would only be affected when on the system was on Auto no? The wire inside of mine is very visible almost coning to the front of the grille bit ..is that normal?
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Old Nov 23rd, 2018, 22:10   #14
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When I met with the kind VOC member Dave who had VIDA and we picked fluff out of said hole, but this would only be affected when on the system was on Auto no? The wire inside of mine is very visible almost coning to the front of the grille bit ..is that normal?
No, it sounds like the bulb end is missing. If so it will never do what it's intended to!
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Old Nov 25th, 2018, 03:10   #15
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So ..apologies for the silly question.. do we know for a fact that if this is broken , which I’m sure it is , that this would affect the heat output even when on manual settings and not Auto? I honestly thought it would only be when on Auto as surely if the cabin temperature was eg 26 degrees you could still select hot air to come out of the vents using the controls?
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Old Nov 25th, 2018, 10:23   #16
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For what is worth, I also had a lot of fluff in this element/sensor and removed with a vacuume cleaner. I can now see what looks like the end of some wires exposed in this grille. I have left well alone.

My heating and cooling work absolutely fine on both sides and all the controls work too.

Not sure what the element/sensort looks like when removed but not unduly concerned.
Hope this helps

John l
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Old Nov 25th, 2018, 10:31   #17
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Not sure what the element/sensort looks like when removed but not unduly concerned.
It is a thermistor and looks like the smaller ones that you see on Muratas website
https://www.murata.com/products/thermistor
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Old Dec 11th, 2018, 01:08   #18
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Just to update this thread.
I took V8Bob to my local garage who used a thermal camera and it was the heater matrix after all Went back to Voltec in Glasgow who did a great job .. fair size of £ ( could have been more to be fair! ) but at least it’s solved and V8Bob is running healthy.
Thanks again everyone for your advice.

Steve
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Old Dec 11th, 2018, 10:48   #19
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Hi

May I ask what kind money this turned out to be as my d5 has all the same symptoms and I fear this is the next step.
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Old Dec 12th, 2018, 00:22   #20
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Hi

May I ask what kind money this turned out to be as my d5 has all the same symptoms and I fear this is the next step.
Of course. I had 2 choices given to me by Voltech.. either they do a half removal of the dashboard and cut away a corner of the heat box that would give almost enough access to the matrix , removal of A/C and then regassing , approx 5 hours , or a full dash removal which included full dash, front doors, and wiring looms to gain full access ..think 10hrs was mentioned
I went for the 1st option as full removal including the doors would be too risky incase this caused more problems in the near future given that it had been assembled for 10 years and the chances of everything going back the way it was or the probability of future problems caused by all the disruption .
As I said the 1st option they did have to cut away the corner of the heat box and then glue/fix it back together again , but they had full faith in this working and not causing any problems. This cost me £712 . The 2nd option was going to be closer to £900 , cant remember the final figure as they obviously quote everything + VAT and it was going to be between £900 and £1000.
You can see why I chose option 1!
Today I can definitely say it worked as I found myself turning the heating down to 20 as I was too hot
Hope that is some help.
Steve
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