Stall on deceleration

[ahal]

Hi all,

Set out for a week in the country, and the Battery warning light came on as I was leaving Dublin. Approximately 500 miles later it went off, and what d'ye know? Car runs perfectly.

Perhaps the flakey alternator was being flakey again ( I think I'm on my third ). Of course it's possible that it's not this lol. Managed to dry the car out a bit which probably helped.

Hopefully she'll not disappoint again. For now, thank you to everyone who advised me.

Regards,

Anthony.

[PinkPig]

Hi All,
B18U 440 1.8i

OK a few hundred miles or more, a week in a garage and this is the result.

Fuel pump was shot, giving low pressure after running for a while.
So replaced the fuel pump and
Also the distributor cap and rotor arm, water temperature sensor and air flow temp sensor.

Now it starts on the button and runs fine whether hot or cold BUT...
it does the stalling between gears or stalling completely thing as described by others here.
I have cleaned every electrical connection I can find - twice!
I have cleaned the jet
I have cleaned the flywheel sensor
I have redexed the fuel.

So the car now starts and drives but does this stalling thing between gears, but always restarts fine and idles fine.

Back to the electrics then?

I have checked the idle control motor and it seems to be functioning correctly - a new one is dealer only at £116.91 - I've already spent a load on this car - do I want to spend more? Its only worth £500 anyway!

One good thing - it passed its MOT.

Any more suggestions before I take to a scrap yard

[Mark480]

Try Vauxhall for the Idle control valve as one of the 400 series ones is shared with the Vauxhall Omega, you s hould be able to get a part number off the unit itself. Also try GSF!

[PinkPig]

What is GSF?

[CTCNetwork]

Hi,

Originally Posted by PinkPig

What is GSF?

German Swedish French
Linky....

Des. . .

[PinkPig]

Thank You for that link.

I'm onto something, but not sure where to go with it.

Noticed that everytime the engine stalls or runs funny the fuel gauge drops.
This is a new pump and sender and everything is clean back there.
So it looks like a power supply issue - either bad earth somewhere or a duff relay.

Checked all the earths off the battery and OK and all the connectors around the engine bay.
Anyone know where the fuel pump relay is on a 440 B18U single point 1.8i 1996?
This is still only a problem when the engine is hot (or engine bay is warm)

[shimon340]

that makes sense, you're losing positive feed to the wiring about the fual tank that connects to the fuel sender and the pump. try wiggling these wires to produce the fault. are the pins damaged?

[PinkPig]

OK, now when it stalls when hot it completely refuses to restart...back to square one!

reading elsewhere on here gives me a few other ideas

ECU not controlling the injector properly
bad earth somewhere
coil pack faulty
faulty connector / broken loom somewhere near the engine that gets warm and plays up
fuel pump still dodgy (not sure why after changing it)
one of the many sensors that have been replaced still sending rubbish to the ECU due to fault/bad loom/earth/connectors
manifold gasket letting in air when hot
lamda probe broken
the list goes on......

ummm maybe its just because its got a shambles of a ******* renault engine?

Being that these 440s aren't worth much any more I think it might be more economical to buy something reliable like a Toyota and be done with it.

[shimon340]

I'd have thought your as closest with these

"faulty connector / broken loom somewhere near the engine that gets warm and plays up, inlet manifold leak ( can be checked using propane spra - revs will rise when you find the source of the leak), coil pack and bad earth.

I empathise with your situation as intermittant electrical faults can be a long process to locate. you commented the fuel pump lost pressure or gave low pressure once the car was warm? does the car consitently fail to idle or is it intermittant? have you checked all vacuum hoses? servo vacuum? when the car idles ok, can you move wiring to see if that produces the fault?

trouble with this is you can replace components only to find it is vaccum or electrical connector at fault. have the HT leads been checked? changed? have all connectors been checked, cleaned etc.

this sort of fault can and does occur on every brand of car, trust me, I work in the automotive industry. Im just sorry you have got a 440 doing this. A toyota of the same price as a 440 is most likely more risky given the shorter service life and life expectancy of them.

have you checked coil primary and secondary wiring resistance? contacts of the coil into the module (renix type) on the bulk head passenger side?

[PinkPig]

Pretty sure its fuel starvation - if I get someone to turn it over and spray easy start down the injector body it fires fine so suggests sparks are sparking.

So bad earth or live supply to the fuel pump / sender looks like the problem.
Booked for a local auto electric place to look at it tomorrow.

I've had a couple of toyota's in the past, both we're brill. My old celica can still be seen driving around - its 1989 model. Only sold it 4 years ago as I needed something bigger for kids to fit in.
Our other vehicle is a 20 year old Mitsubishi Delica (big mpv) with 253,000 on the clock

It think the main problem is that current 10 year old cars are stuffed with electronics whereas in the past they were more mechanical and less complex therefore easier to diagnose and fix with a knife and fork.
Cars used to rust away, now the black boxes fail.
Oh well - I'll have to start buying 20 year old cars!