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Euro4 D5 / 2.4D DPF or Sensor Issue ?

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Old Jul 6th, 2016, 22:37   #51
graemedench
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OK well I think it maybe 2 problems.

when I first pulled off the drive I got a boost dump, and then it was fine, but really lacking in power, then as I said before the DPF was getting hot. But no warnings, I stopped and let it all cool.

Then drove it back and again boost issue at the start then low power and hot dpf. still no warnings until the DPF got really hot (according to the software) and then it threw a Engine Service Required.

I'm not sure if maybe the turbo vanes are a bit sticky now as a result of the back pressure from before and gummed up and it cant control the turbo correctly. I guess I need to take the actuator off and check free movement and maybe clean the turbo.

I've attached all the pics I took from Vida , I think The DPF has Had it. I tried to graph the turbo etc as well but I suspect it switched to low boost after the over boost occurred.

I also had to repair a wire going to the DPF pressure sensor as it got damaged, its all fixed a new bit soldered in with double heat shrink and in teh plastic sleeve too.
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Old Jul 21st, 2016, 10:41   #52
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Wrong section of the forum.

If the DPF has failed, I would sell it and get a real Volvo that was made before 2005 when the company was sold off to the Chinese and the EU forced the use of DPF's that did not even work.
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Old Sep 1st, 2018, 05:39   #53
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Not sure if anyone is still interested, bit I'll wage a bet your problem was not the sensor or the DPF, but with the signal wire. Did you ever take any readings with a multimeter? I've had DPF problema for over two years an the car has souded and performed like it's on it's wayout for mostof that time. That was until Two weeks ago I decidednto take the pressire sensor off and check for any moisture. Well, after years of hot gases attacking it, the larger diameter pipe crumbled as I tried to remove the rubber bridging hose.

A local factors managed to get me a new sensor the following day for £65. Installed and calibrated it with VIDA, started the car and......'Engine System Service Required.' ECM-2A50 Pressure Sensor Partuculate Trap - Singal too low. Cleared the code - Back again at Ignition Pos ii. Checked live data for Sensor - over 65,000hPa. WTF? Decide to take the car for a quick drive, I'm curious because to my ear it suddenly sounds a lot quieter with a beautifully smoth idle. OMG! Is this even the same D5? Quieter, Smoother, Power, OMG is the Power is back or what. That's one way I know my DPF isn't blocked. That engine revved as free as could be. What I considered to be a tired, worn old engine just 24hrs earlier, suddenly felt like it had only done 23,500 not it's actual 235,000 miles.

As I check my rear view mirror when accelerating away from a junction, my big wide grin turns to a look of confusion. Had I made all that smoke? A quick check with Torque Pro, EGR fixed at a steady 94.9, she's in regen...nothing new there, except this time it appears to be actually working. The DPG hits 680°c within minutes and at relitively low speed. Then it started, the message center came to life and the power deserted me.

That was a week ago and I'm still trying to get to the bottom of the issue. But one thing I do know is the pressure sensor signal wire should read 0v with the ignition on at Pos ii and the plug to the sensor disconnected. It didn't, it read 5v. I've had just about every code there is for the sensor and DPF over the last two weeks. Too high, Too low, Erratic, Blocked and a few more besides.

I've exposed the 3 wires right back to the ECU and found no obvious signs of shorting, I've even taken the plug off as there was some damage to the signal wire about 2mm form where it went into the plug and a small plastic piece broken near the ground pin hole. I hooked up temporary connectors, but still getting erratic codes. With the 5v wire and the signal wire separated by the ground, I wasn't that hopefull it would work, but it needed rulling out

At this point in time, my Gut tells me the Pressure Sensor Signal wires only neighbour on the ECM plug, (5V supply for the Oil Temperature and Level Sensor,) is shorting the 5v to the signal wire. I'm getting a lot of oil level warnings, and despite adding over a litre of Castrol Edge 0w-40, the light warning was back on 15miles later. No blue smoke and the engine certainly didn't sound oil starved, despite a reading of -4% qith VIDA, the deaired being 70%. Wouldn't that be a turn up for the books, if the oil level amd temp sensor was in some causing the high oil consumption/DPF issues 'only some' Euro4 D5 suffer with, and boy do they suffer. I've been getting heavy blue smoke for a couple of months, yet only black/brown burned soot since the new sensor went on. What's really worrying is that there was no DTC's with the old sensor on the car, despite it running like a complete sack of s**t. How on earth are you supposed to know it's the sensor, when visually it looms fine and appears to be within Volvos paramaters I'm going to have a very close look at those two wires as they approach and enter the Loom/ECM connector. Although the short may well lay within the ECM itself.

Any suggestions are more than welcome. My joy at having my sweet as a nut, quiet, smooth and did I mention POWERFUL V70 D5 back, still outweighs the constant bombardment of Messages, Faults and intermittent Reduced Power. However that will soon change if I don't get to the bottom of this unending DPF Saga once and for all. It's

BTW, I'm also getting O2 Sensor fault codes, but only since the new sensor went on.
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Old Sep 1st, 2018, 19:03   #54
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Shouldn't be that difficult to replicate DPF sensor output to fool the ECU into thinking all is well, has this been tried? Would need to monitor sensor output from a known, good DPF to create a benchmark.
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Old Oct 15th, 2018, 22:10   #55
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Default I may have the answer for you.

I've had very similar issues to you with my 06 D5 185. Firstly, Volvo kept very quiet about the type of EGR they fitted to the Euro4. It's a Ford designed High Pressure Loop EGR that works by creating a pressure differential between intake and exhaust by using the Throttle and the Turbo Vanes. In my opinion, it is missing a failsafe as it doean't have any way of measuring the EGR/Fresh Air Mix. Instead it relies too heavily on calculated values. If, like you and I there's a unusually high DPF pressure reading, the EGR system compounds the problem.

Back to the cause if your woes. I'd get a multimeter and check the single ECM power supply from the Alternator. Although you don't have other DTC's, I wouldn't mind betting your other sensor reading are all to **** due to insufficient voltage to the ECM. While your there, check the power steering pump for any leaks. This can drip into the Alternator and get onto the brushes. I replaced the connector an the single wire that plugs into alternator and saw an improvement, however there still seems to be an issue. When I back probed the connector, I got a rapidly fluctuating voltage of between 3.5v and 8v, with the connector off I got a solid 12v. However, I foolishly forgot to check it after replacing the connector and suspect the voltage is dropping under load.

Before replacing the connector, I was seeing idle How reading of anything from 60hpa to over 100hpa. These spiked massively with a bit of boost. I suspect the Volvo Sensor has a far greater tolerance, as the original on mine only ever produced produced one DTC, which cleared and didn't return after replacing the DPF. However, when the 'Soot Filter Full'Messages returned after only 7 months, I took the sensor off to check for moisture and the HI side nozzle (large diameter) crumbles in my hands. When I put a new Sensor on, like you I had the Sensor Low to start. However, the difference on the Engine was unreal. What I had assumed was engine wear, was all down to the old sensor. The car was quieter, smoother and by God did the power return. Sadly though I was getting one fault after another for the sensor and 'Particulate Trap.' I saw you had a silly reading after blowing in the narrower tube. Was this 65535 by any chance? This is the maximum value that can be calculated by a 16bit processor. It basically means the voltage is out of range by a country mile. I suspect a very low signal voltage. The Sensor High fault that follows is purely the ECM goung through the motions, probaly to force a regeneration (EGR 95%, or 94.9% on Torque Pro. You will no doubt be having EGR and Throttle issues too. If it's the ECM power supply, every single sensor module will be out by a mile, or in the throttles case, working in reverse. The only reason I dropped on the power supply issue was down to getting a RED Triangle and 'Brake Failure' Message this morning. It suddenly reminded me of an issue with an Octavia I owned, when the batteries charging supply from the alternator burnt out and every single warning light came on.

A little tip, don't use the Engine to brake until it's fixed. My throttle kept moving to 90% closed on both lift off and anything more than a feather on the accelerator. This creates a significant vacuum after the Throttle Body/EGR and it won't be long before you're sucking the oil past the piston rings. Once the electrical issue is sorted, I'd advise a forced regeneration and counter reset so the ECM knows where it is. That info is used to calculate exhaust pressure for the EGR System and with incorrect data, you'll have further problems down the line. Please keep me posted on how you get on, I'd be really interested to know.
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