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Oil/Coolant mix coming out of expansion tank

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Old Sep 9th, 2018, 16:01   #11
Clan
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what traces of oil on the stick are perfectly normal , clear new looking etc. no traces of anything milky etc
well if new clean oil mixed with rusty coolant it could well look like that , If the car was running well and not overheating or coolant going down I would suspect the oil cooler on the side of the sump …. again , that is an easy job but the clean up will take many hours and need new hoses ..
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Old Sep 9th, 2018, 16:10   #12
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any ideas on a ball park figure price to fix myself / equivalent price at a garage?
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Old Sep 9th, 2018, 16:12   #13
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Hoses not necessarily needed really, a good hard flush first, buy a gallon of isopropyl alchohol/isopropanol off ebay, use half with water to fill cooling system, run until fairly hot at moderate rpm, empty, flush, repeat. This should degrease the cooling system and emulsify everything to drain out. Then another good hard flush through before refill with new coolant.
The hoses should be fine.
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Old Sep 9th, 2018, 17:25   #14
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does anyone know the part number for the oil cooler or a link to one. thanks
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Old Sep 9th, 2018, 18:17   #15
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Hi Clan,
Sorry to hijack the post but I am stuck and could not see where to contact you.
Any idea where the DPF pressure sensor is on the twin turbo D5? MY 2010.
Even Vadis is vague and seems to indicate it is behind the turbo actuator. Working down the back of these engines is no fun and i don't want to be taking off all those heatshields etc if the sensor module isn't there. I cannot see the two pipes running up there from the dpf either.
The car is not running and only produces one error code. ECM P245202 DPF Pressure sensor Circuit A signal fail.
I cannot see why this would prevent it starting but I have to start somewhere. The tank fuel pump is not running and I think it is a lack of signal from the ECU rather than a pump or wiring fault.
Thanks for any help.
Ampy.
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Old Sep 9th, 2018, 19:38   #16
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A few garages I know of and some d.i.y.ers use laundry liquid to flush the cooling system after an oil cooler failure.
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Old Sep 9th, 2018, 21:15   #17
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does anyone know the part number for the oil cooler or a link to one. thanks
car details are needed for that ..

As I said, the cleanup is a very long job and despite what is said above you will need new hoses ,and that is Every single rubber coolant hose , don't forget the heater hoses, oil cooler hoses , vent hoses .. The hose you do not do will be the one that bursts for sure ..... the oil goes deep into the rubber with the pressure in the system and in a year or two you will see it emerging from the outside then in 3 years or later the weakest hose will burst due to the rubber rotting , losing all your coolant in 5 seconds flat...and depending where you are will rapidly overheat the engine .

I have had to repair this problem about 4 times in my career since the sump coolers came out in 1992 , It generally takes over 10 ( ten) full flushes with a commercial emulsifier , with a road test each time to heat it up each time and swirl the cleaning agent around the passageways .

Yes some people have used AERIAL washing powder to emulsify the oil !
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Last edited by Clan; Sep 9th, 2018 at 21:28.
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Old Sep 9th, 2018, 21:36   #18
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It's a 2000 2l non turbo . Is it a job do able at home or would you recommend it going to a garage ?
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Old Sep 9th, 2018, 21:48   #19
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It's a 2000 2l non turbo . Is it a job do able at home or would you recommend it going to a garage ?

Most is labour , it is not a hard job , just labour intensive … it could take 3/4 of a day to clean it out and fit the parts including hoses ..

Oil cooler 9496495
2 water seals for cooler 30637339

Water Hose 9497012

Water Hose 9497111

4 litres volvo coolant 9647531
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Old Sep 10th, 2018, 07:16   #20
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Dishwasher tablets are your friend here, they work brilliantly. And if you are prepared to change the coolant, with a dishwasher tablet run first, every few months for a year then you can save the hioses with a it of luck as well.
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