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Hello and V50 advice please.

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Old Apr 24th, 2013, 14:24   #11
askim98
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Originally Posted by jaygee View Post
The both systems need replacing after a period. The Ash/Soot doesn't just disappear.
no the new system doesnt need to be replaced the old one with the additive yes, as the ash it is created by the additive itself.

the difference betweeen the 2 system is that with the additives the DPF will not suffer (as much) of the clogging due to incomplete regeneration as the regeneration temp it is a lot lower ( 150C difference).

at the same time if the new system has to be changed only the DPF unit will set you back at least £ 800 plus the rest ( the old one i think it is around £ 280-300 for an OEM).
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Old Apr 24th, 2013, 14:30   #12
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If there is a 5 you still need to establish the type and if it is present

One, similar to V70, needs no maintenance and has no cost

The other requires top up at 37500 and replace at 75000. Mega

Unless, of course, a previous owner has removed
yes you are correct if it s prior to late 2007 you will have additive post are with the no maintinace ones

if you buy with the DPF than you have to see which one is better for you.i purchased the old one with additives as it is better for my needs.

if you need force a regeneration for the new type at the volvo garage will cost you a bit of money.
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Old Apr 24th, 2013, 15:24   #13
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The 2.0d in the v50 never had the dry system, it was without dpf or with eolys.
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Old Apr 24th, 2013, 16:23   #14
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Originally Posted by askim98 View Post
no the new system doesnt need to be replaced the old one with the additive yes, as the ash it is created by the additive itself.

the difference betweeen the 2 system is that with the additives the DPF will not suffer (as much) of the clogging due to incomplete regeneration as the regeneration temp it is a lot lower ( 150C difference).

at the same time if the new system has to be changed only the DPF unit will set you back at least £ 800 plus the rest ( the old one i think it is around £ 280-300 for an OEM).
So the new system never needs to be replaced because of the eventual build up of soot/ash?
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Old Apr 24th, 2013, 16:25   #15
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The both systems need replacing after a period. The Ash/Soot doesn't just disappear.
The V70 type can go on for many years. I've never needed to replace one or heard of one failing. This depends on reasonable running where the engine attains proper working temperatures for long enough

The top up type is designed to be replaced at 75000 although they do tend to go to over 100k before they eventually give up
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Old Apr 24th, 2013, 16:47   #16
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So the new system never needs to be replaced because of the eventual build up of soot/ash?
the soot gets burned the only problem it is as i said it is the usage as you should not buy a car with such DPF if you use the car for short journey or in traffic as this will create problem as the engine will not be regenerating properly.
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Old Apr 24th, 2013, 17:14   #17
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Originally Posted by Ninja59 View Post
The 2.0d in the v50 never had the dry system, it was without dpf or with eolys.
Not correct

My V50 had V70 type
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Old Apr 24th, 2013, 17:38   #18
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Well you are the first one I have ever ever ever heard that did not have an eolys one if true in a 2.0D v50 manual. If powershift then it had the dry system.

In reality the majority of 2.0D I have come across rarely have a dpf oddly it appears more of the earlier ones did, the powershift was the oddball.

Last edited by Ninja59; Apr 24th, 2013 at 18:19.
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Old Apr 24th, 2013, 18:20   #19
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Originally Posted by deswahriff View Post
..and make sure the CD player works, it's not so easy or cheap to get fixed if its broken...you won't be able to fit an after-market solution, and you can't just replace with another Volvo one off, e.g. ebay...they are individually coded to the car....the only feasable alternative seems to be a Parrot kit...

(....both from personal experience!)
I have sourced the 6cd changer unit from the states. It should turn up here next week and the theory is because I am just replacing the cd unit(some assembly required lol) and using the original circuit board it will still be coded to the car. I will start a how to thread when I get the unit and get around to replacing it.

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Old Apr 24th, 2013, 19:49   #20
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Sorry to anyone who saw this yesterday, but someone else posed the same question.

Air conditioning!!!!! Check both sides are working. Put both sides at same temperature and ensure heat output is same both sides. Then crank one side up, the other down, check it responds. Reverse it. Then revert back to same both sides. Obviously with a warm engine!

Despite having that fault and an alternator go on me, I am pleased with my 07 2.0D. As good as any Audi, Merc, Saab or BMW I've had.
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