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Dynamic Timing

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Old Feb 11th, 2020, 20:34   #1
pyro
Volvo V70 2.5D
 

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Default Dynamic Timing

Hey all,

I'm going to be looking at doing the injector pump belt on my v70 2.5d in the coming month, I've a few questions that may be common sense, but I'll ask anyway! I've read every "how-to" guide going I think, but I've never had anything to do with timing belts on anything.

There are two idlers/tensioners, upper and lower.
Do these need replacing every time the belt is done?

The belt it self - A technique I've seen done is to slice the old belt down its length, remove half, then slot the new belt on the exposed pulleys, then remove the remenants of the old belt.
Do we think this would work on the injector pump belt?


Is there anything else I should do whilst I'm in there? The Cam belt and water pump was done 3k ago and I have access to VIDA/dice so I can run the dynamic time set-up and adjust when I'm done - I believe the instructions are to adjust this whilst running the engine, has anyone actually done this?


And lastly, is there anyone local to York, Malton etc. that would be willing to give me a hand with this? Happy to chuck beer tokens etc about - I have a nice dry, warm workshop to do this work in!


Cheers

Ben
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Old Feb 11th, 2020, 23:04   #2
tdidave
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Hello Ben.. I can't say as I've performed the belt slice thing, but you need to know that there's a locking screw on the side of the pump. The photo is stock off the internet, but you can see the locking screw on the main boss of the pump.

You undo the locking screw with your old belt and timing set up in situ, remove the spacer bracket on the locking screw, and then put the screw back in and nip it up. This will lock the pump in situ allowing you to remove the old belt and fit your new one. Don't forget to remove the locking screw and refit the spacer bracket once the new belt is on. Its critical of coarse that the engine is not turned in any way.

Re the idlers and tensioners, if you don't know how long they've been in there I'd change them.

If you require a PDF on the set up of this pump PM me with an email address and I'll send you one.



Dave..
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Old Feb 11th, 2020, 23:38   #3
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Ok.. I hope I've managed to attach that PDF I was talking about in this post.

Dave..
Attached Files
File Type: pdf x70-diesel-registerremskifte.pdf (381.4 KB, 13 views)
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Old Feb 12th, 2020, 06:26   #4
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Personally now I just time everything up as over the years it appears most of the camshafts have moved and they run much better if everything is where it should be!

So messing about cutting belts etc would most likely be a waste of time!
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Old Feb 12th, 2020, 10:45   #5
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Quote:
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Personally now I just time everything up as over the years it appears most of the camshafts have moved and they run much better if everything is where it should be!

So messing about cutting belts etc would most likely be a waste of time!
Yes.. I tend to agree with you PNuT because either way a new pump belt is going to effect the timing a smidgen. However, I have successfully changed a pump belt on a mates car just by locking the pump, and then setting the dynamic timing with VOL-FCR. I don't have the Volvo software, and have always found VOL-FCR sufficient.

Dave..
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Old Feb 13th, 2020, 17:14   #6
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https://www.justanswer.com/uk-car/3r...-injector.html

Enjoy
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Old Feb 13th, 2020, 18:20   #7
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Enjoyed..
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Old Feb 15th, 2020, 23:31   #8
pyro
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Cheers folks, feeling a bit more confident about it now, but I may have a few questions once I get in there!

I had a quick look today whilst I was swapping the front engine mount (the hydraulic one behind the radiator) The belt looks fairly worn, but I know its done around 40-50k so its time is right! That'll be next months job sorted then!

Has anyone any tips on removing the rear engine mount/pad? I've looked through the vida procedure and it doesn't seem to make sense!

thanks all

Ben
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Old Feb 16th, 2020, 10:17   #9
tdidave
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Are you talking about the one that sits on the centre black bracket in the photo below? If so, I don't think it'll be a piece of cake. I changed those when I changed my engine, which of course made it a piece of cake.

Off the top of my head I'd say the easiest way to get at that is by removing the starter motor which should??? give easier access to the cast alloy bracket which seems to be secured by two visible bolts. Of course, it may be possible to get at it below without removing the starter, but I wouldn't put money on it. Either way the engine is going to have to be supported.

I've enclosed two photo''s from my engine change so you can see what you're dealing with.

Dave..



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Old Feb 16th, 2020, 14:30   #10
pyro
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Thanks Dave,
The front one (behind the rad, under the injector pump) was fairly easy, though a bit of a fiddle with sausage fingers. probably took an hour once I'd got things supported and worked out how I was going to do it.


The rear one, under the starter and turbo looks to have easier access than the front one. I Just couldnt get it to release last night, despite bolts being undone and engine raised slightly.

Does that heat shield/ tinplate come off with the mount? Just so I know what I can tap with a hammer!

But the difference in driving having just done the front mount is incredible. I tihnk the engine now sits 20mm higher, theres greatly reduced resonance in the cabin, gearchange is sharper and on "heavy" cornering there was what I thought was CV chatter, but that has gone now too. Very happy!

cheers all

Ben
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