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850R Engine oils ?

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Old Aug 14th, 2006, 18:38   #21
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if you really think flushing out the small amount of oil thats left in the cooler( i used to drain the cooler when i changed the oil you get about half a cup full out) is going to make any difernce whatsover to the longevity of your engine carry on.
thats a small cup you have there chow...the capacity of the oil cooler is .9 litres which iirc is close to a pint and a half....i have never drained more than 5 litres from a oil change and as the capacity is 5.9 litres it would suggest that .9 litres is left...both the inlet and outlet hose to/from the cooler enter the engine well above the sump so will not be subject to any gravity..i would prefer to agree to disagree (as usual lol)..flushing your oil cooler can cause no adverse effects and therefore imo it is well worthwhile...i would not consider a flush agent as surely you cannot beat the recomended engine lubricant...
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Old Aug 14th, 2006, 18:43   #22
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yes gary, i have heard good reports but my prefered choice is 5w/40 halfords own, purley because it has always worked well for me, i do a lot of miles and it has never let me down...
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Old Aug 15th, 2006, 12:50   #23
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the bottom line is any oil of the correct spec from any big name is going to be fine just remember depending how fussy you are that not all full syns are actually that at all, many such as halfords are actually dino based oil and not a true synthetic, a legal loophole allows them to describe it as synthetic ( in fact mobil have been fighting this one in the courts for a while now as there mobil 1 is one of the few along with shell helix which is a true synthetic) i use valvoline synpower which is a great oil but again strictly speaking not a true synthetic, however i think the differences bewtween the pure syns and the others is very small, both perform way above most cars needs
 
Old Aug 15th, 2006, 18:09   #24
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the bottom line is any oil of the correct spec from any big name is going to be fine just remember depending how fussy you are that not all full syns are actually that at all, many such as halfords are actually dino based oil and not a true synthetic, a legal loophole allows them to describe it as synthetic ( in fact mobil have been fighting this one in the courts for a while now as there mobil 1 is one of the few along with shell helix which is a true synthetic) i use valvoline synpower which is a great oil but again strictly speaking not a true synthetic, however i think the differences bewtween the pure syns and the others is very small, both perform way above most cars needs
i had heard of this before but thought it no longer went on....is there any way of telling from the "can" what is and what is not fully synthetic..ie kyte mark?
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Old Aug 15th, 2006, 20:29   #25
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I use Total Activa 7000 10w40 Semi Synth on our two T5's as they're reasonably high mileage now (160k).

I buy it in France for £16.00 for 6 Litres. (What value!)


In a lower mileage car I'd put in 5w40 or 5w30. I just bought 7 Litres of 5w30 ACEA A5/B5 approved oil for £16.35
hmm, i am interested in that comment. my v70 T5 has 144k on the clock, why is it better to use heavier oil? is it because of leaking seals etc?
is the halfords stuff the best bang for buck so to speak (bearing in mind i will be buying in uk)
 
Old Aug 15th, 2006, 22:22   #26
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Chow thinks i'm talking crap, hey i've only been selling engine oils for 18 years, so what do i know!!
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Old Aug 16th, 2006, 00:20   #27
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hmm, i am interested in that comment. my v70 T5 has 144k on the clock, why is it better to use heavier oil? is it because of leaking seals etc?
In a word, yes. Chances are it wouldn't leak but I don't want to take the risk. They doesn't get run in super cold weather where a lower viscosity 5w oil would really benefit whereas my car gets run in down to -20c weather so 5w or 0w is preferable.

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is the halfords stuff the best bang for buck so to speak (bearing in mind i will be buying in uk)
Two schools of thought here. Either a good branded oil and change every 6-12k, or a cheaper non-branded oil and change every 3-4k. I think unless its heavily modified or there is a reason why it should have a low viscosity winter grade any 10w40 would be fine provideded it meets the required ACEA requirements, which I believe is A3 for the T5's.
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Old Aug 16th, 2006, 11:36   #28
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have been looking at shell helix and mobil 1 and only the shell helix ultra seems to be fully synthetic and is 5w 40, shell helix plus is semi and is 10w 40.
the only mobil 1 i could find was 15w 50 which was extended performance.
so do i have to use semi synthetic?
cheers + sorry for being a bit of a pain
 
Old Aug 16th, 2006, 12:18   #29
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Chow thinks i'm talking crap, hey i've only been selling engine oils for 18 years, so what do i know!!
sorry to have upset you, but just because you flog oil doesnt mean you know anything about it, you clearly dont, im sorry but your post was rubbish, no offence meant
 
Old Aug 16th, 2006, 12:26   #30
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i had heard of this before but thought it no longer went on....is there any way of telling from the "can" what is and what is not fully synthetic..ie kyte mark?
cheers
jod
no there isnt im afraid, however in the real world i would not worry to much about it, for example valvoline synpower which is a not a true synthetic strictly speaking, performs almost as well as that benchmark oil, mobil 1, as for halfords im sure it also will be an excellent oil and as you change it at very short intervals i would not worry at all, incidently some time ago i rebuilt my old 850 t5 motor which expired due to a failed belt tensioner after 180k miles running solely on mineral oil and it showed almost no wear whatsoever in the bores, crank, cams etc which just shows how good even "inferior" mineral oils are these days
 
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