|
PV, 120 (Amazon), 1800 General Forum for the Volvo PV, 120 and 1800 cars |
Information |
|
1961 Volvo PV544 in HollandViews : 83886 Replies : 750Users Viewing This Thread : |
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
Aug 21st, 2018, 14:32 | #371 |
marches on his stomach
Last Online: Feb 11th, 2022 03:15
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Somewhere in the Netherlands
|
The problem with symmetry...
...is that after you've welded brackets on one rear wing there's another one waiting for the same treatment.
It all adds to the Ground Hog day effect. Still it does give you a chance to think "hmmm perhaps I'll be a little bit more careful next time I apply the seam sealant"! Here's the RH wing in ferpox after seam sealant around the new brackets And here's the twin - the LH side - with new brackets that are more or less in equivalent positions (WOW - hey - effort - measurements were made!) and in Eastwood rust encapsulator ready for the next "could do better" seam sealant attempt tomorrow
__________________
1961 Volvo PV544 the quick and easy in between project(!) 1981 Mercedes 300D <=> 230 diesel to petrol conversion project 1965 Series 2a Station Wagon mega build 1992 Mercedes 190E The car that works! |
Aug 21st, 2018, 17:37 | #372 | |
New Member
Last Online: Apr 2nd, 2024 11:42
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: The Hague
|
You're most welcome. I appreciate the effort you are putting in publishing all this. I know firsthand that that costs about as much time as actually working on the car. I really love reading this and the pictures are a fantastic boon.
Quote:
I'm summoning the will power to weld my bulkhead, but posts on the Katterug or the Series; I find them equally motivating to proceed on restoring the rear quarter panels, which were hard to find but that someone somehow dug out of an English field for me. |
|
Aug 22nd, 2018, 09:30 | #373 | |
marches on his stomach
Last Online: Feb 11th, 2022 03:15
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Somewhere in the Netherlands
|
Quote:
__________________
1961 Volvo PV544 the quick and easy in between project(!) 1981 Mercedes 300D <=> 230 diesel to petrol conversion project 1965 Series 2a Station Wagon mega build 1992 Mercedes 190E The car that works! |
|
Aug 22nd, 2018, 09:33 | #374 |
marches on his stomach
Last Online: Feb 11th, 2022 03:15
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Somewhere in the Netherlands
|
Colour
Still a bit of a problem.
The original colour isn't growing on me: What do you all think about it - apart from a few paint corrections this is how it will look
__________________
1961 Volvo PV544 the quick and easy in between project(!) 1981 Mercedes 300D <=> 230 diesel to petrol conversion project 1965 Series 2a Station Wagon mega build 1992 Mercedes 190E The car that works! |
Aug 22nd, 2018, 09:42 | #375 |
New Member
Last Online: Apr 2nd, 2024 11:42
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: The Hague
|
Nice color. 👍🏻 What is that? Tan?
|
Aug 22nd, 2018, 09:43 | #376 |
Master Member
Last Online: Mar 28th, 2024 14:15
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Droitwich
|
I know what you mean, but it does look better on a whole car.
|
Aug 22nd, 2018, 10:09 | #377 |
New Member
Last Online: Apr 2nd, 2024 11:42
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: The Hague
|
No, I meant it. It looks way better than red.
|
Aug 22nd, 2018, 10:11 | #378 |
marches on his stomach
Last Online: Feb 11th, 2022 03:15
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Somewhere in the Netherlands
|
Code is 72 - Fawn Brown
According to the Dutch club I'm a member of it is quite a rare colour which is why I took a fair amount of time and effort getting someone to mix it for me. In the newer base coat + clear computer system is doesn't / didn't exist so I got someone to mix the colour adjusting from the computer code for the single coat version...
__________________
1961 Volvo PV544 the quick and easy in between project(!) 1981 Mercedes 300D <=> 230 diesel to petrol conversion project 1965 Series 2a Station Wagon mega build 1992 Mercedes 190E The car that works! |
Aug 22nd, 2018, 10:13 | #379 |
marches on his stomach
Last Online: Feb 11th, 2022 03:15
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Somewhere in the Netherlands
|
Anything is better than that patchy original red - I think the 155 code red is far too new for the PV shape. If I were to go for a red I'd go for the deeper 46 (Robin Red that nearly every PV is painted in!)
__________________
1961 Volvo PV544 the quick and easy in between project(!) 1981 Mercedes 300D <=> 230 diesel to petrol conversion project 1965 Series 2a Station Wagon mega build 1992 Mercedes 190E The car that works! |
Aug 22nd, 2018, 15:35 | #380 |
marches on his stomach
Last Online: Feb 11th, 2022 03:15
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Somewhere in the Netherlands
|
Some notes about welding sheet metal
The lower corner of my right hand front wing had rusted away. The bolt that goes into the centre front (radiator support) panel was rusted solid so I just ripped it out when I pulled the car to bits.
[Take no prisoners] Now it is time to fix the rust and the additional damage I made. The direction I chose today isn't a particularly easy route. I decided to weld on the corner of a bend that was partly there. This can go seriously wrong - so I thought I'd show the method I used to keep everything together. Please note - an excessive amount of filler rod was used in this repair! An excessive amount of filler rod in structural welding is, more often than not, considered to be an undesirable form of welding. Filling in holes with shed loads of filler material on structural parts is not a good plan. This is just a corner of a thin metal body panel. In this case I'm not especially worried about the properties of the steel I add to the mix. (You should bear this in mind if you are welding pressure containers or box sections of steel or nuclear reactors but in this case flouncing about wasting gas and adding in blobs of filler isn't going to be a problem - other than the self inflicted cost and time spent in said flouncing about) [OK lecture over-ish] In the picture below I've already marked out the rough shape of the metal I need to add and figured out where the fixing hole goes Note I'm using a hole punch to make the ends of the oval fixing hole - nice clean edges - and round ones too instead of an oval edge that it more likely to happen with a drill bit (although I can post a link to a chap called AvE on youtoob who shows a method of drilling round holes in sheet metal if you like) The next picture shows the new metal lying in its new position. The masking tape is important! It gives the correct angle for the repair patch - it shows the original position. Cutting this straight is important as the rest of the metal along the bend in the panel needs to be cut away - there's a chance that the bend will bend during cutting as you are removing the rigidity of the edge... ...so you need to keep the reference point on the new bit of metal so that the carefully cut shape of the original curved edge helps you make sure that it all lines up. That explanation might be as clear as mud - so in the following picture you can see what's been cut => 1) The straight edge where the masking tape in the previous picture was helps orientate the new metal. 2) The curved part of the original panel has been trimmed to the corner / edge and no longer has much rigidity - this is a potential disaster waiting to happen! ######### My method from here on is to tack in blobs of filler metal holding the repair patch in place. I'm working from the reference point - the straight edge where the masking tape once was In principle it is possible to blob your way all the way along the joint. In a way that is what I did but you have to remember that just because you add a new blob next to an old blob (and that blob glows red) it does not mean the blobs are joined up. You must - even though there's a chance you'll blow a hole in the metal in doing so - join up the blobs properly by welding through. You need to make continuous welds through your tacks! If you don't you have left lots of designer cracks all along your joint. After some considerable messing about you can eventually reach the stage where you can grind away the excessive filler material you've pain stakingly added to the joint. Finishing off with a scrubbing disc => Today I've gotten as far as this => It isn't 100% beautiful. It isn't in the same class as the work done by the good people on www.metalmeet.com but it is strong and functional. If I wanted a perfect finish I'd probably have to spend the same amount of time again filling in the holes with weld - grinding away the underside of the repair and panel beating the shape the fraction of millimeters needed to make it an invisible repair. I'm of the opinion that there's an occasion for very very thinly applied body filler and this could be one of them! The thickness of the filler over this repair would be way less than 1mm - I'm calling that good enough. I finished off the oval slot for the attachment bolt by breaking out the Dremel and a thin cutting disc
__________________
1961 Volvo PV544 the quick and easy in between project(!) 1981 Mercedes 300D <=> 230 diesel to petrol conversion project 1965 Series 2a Station Wagon mega build 1992 Mercedes 190E The car that works! Last edited by Army; Aug 22nd, 2018 at 15:42. |
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests) | |
|
|