Amazon: Electric

[x2701]

I am currently restoring the electrical system of my Volvo 122S to its original condition as the previous owner made a number of modifications. I would like to know how the original connectors of the horn and the heater motor (including the ground wire) inside the engine compartment look like (see attached excerpts from the schematic). Any ideas?

Apart from that, the steel spring clamp of the junction unit inside the engine compartment (the one that connects the forward lights and blinkers) is missing. Any idea where to find this part? Is it still available somewhere?

I own a 1963 Volvo 122S 4-Door. I am referring to the wiring diagram in the service manual for ch. number 112800 to 139999, 4-door model.

Thank you.

Stefan

[Ron Kwas]

Stefan;

Welcome to this forum!

Horn and Heater Motor connectors are nothing more special than crimps, but if you are replacing any crimps, I highly recommend stripping wire (hopefully to shiny copper, if not, lightly abrade what you have to shiny CU!) and before inserting it into crimp barrel, dipping it into a bit of ACZP (see: https://www.sw-em.com/anti_corrosive_paste.htm )...beware that chassis connection for Heater Mot is made with a soldered Ring terminal at Brake Sys hydraulic junction on firewall!

I do suggest adding a relay to control the Horn. See: https://www.sw-em.com/122_horn_notes.htm
Spring Clamp which secures Lighting Hex Conn to inner fender may be available new, but it should certainly be available used (check with Chris Horn aka agent_strangeloveAThotmailDOTcom ...he is in US west coast...check on Volvoniacs [German forum] for Eurosources).

You don't state how much experience you have with your Amazon, or the model in general, so may I recommend two other improvements which have the potential for improving your vintage Volvo experience significantly...Push-Button Start Switch to eliminate broken Ign Keys (see: https://www.sw-em.com/Broken%20Vinta...tion%20Key.htm) ...and to assure your Brakelights are absolutely reliable (which they are often not when relying on the OE Hyrdaulic Brake Light Switch!) upgrade to a Pedal Position Sensing Brake Light Sw (as the factory also did in~'67)...see: https://www.sw-em.com/safety_bulletin_1.htm

Gruesse aus Connecticut!

[x2701]

Ron,

thank you so much for your quick reply and your suggestions. This Volvo is my first classic car and I have to admit I don't know anything about it. I have, however, a very knowledgeable mechanic at hand who has worked on Volvo classic cars for over 30 years now.

Fortunately, the previous owner already added a horn relay exactly as explained in the link above.

Anything else I need to be aware of regarding the electrical system?
I own this model: 12234VF
Ch no.: 127553
Year of production: 1963

Stefan

[Ron Kwas]

Stefan;

The Volvo is a very good first oldtimer vehicle...the original design, engineering and materials were superb, and with a little care to wear-out items and addressing some weaknesses which show themselves (after decades!), the car can still offer much fun and enjoyment with a taste of '60s motoring, while keeping up, even this day... There is much general info on the net and specific help on forums to help your experience mechanic!

"Anything else I need to be aware of regarding the electrical system?" [...now your in my sandbox! I've already made some suggestions, but additionally and generally, assure ALL connections are and remain shiny and snug...that will go a long way toward preventing problems...ACZP will help with this (see: http://www.sw-em.com/anti_corrosive_paste.htm )...and don't worry too much if the AMP Indicator glows only slightly when turning ON power to Blower, see: http://www.sw-em.com/AMP_Indicator_ON.htm ]

Happy Reading!

[x2701]

Ron,

thank you so much for your reply. Of course, I read all the other suggestions of your first post. I just didn't say that explicitly. I found the article about the break light switch especially interesting. I will upgrade the hydraulic brake light switch. Also, I will use an ACZP for all new connections and I seriously think about adding a push-button start switch.

Stefan

[Splinelube]

Originally Posted by x2701

Ron,

I seriously think about adding a push-button start switch.

Stefan

Stefan, That push button start switch is in my opinion the one single upgrade that is the easiest and most productive and least expensive, proactive upgrade you can make. In time your ignition key WILL at least crack at its base if not completely break off. Regards, Russ

[arcturus]

Originally Posted by Splinelube

Stefan, That push button start switch is in my opinion the one single upgrade that is the easiest and most productive and least expensive, proactive upgrade you can make. In time your ignition key WILL at least crack at its base if not completely break off. Regards, Russ

A spare replacement ignition key costs relatively pennies. I have one on the key ring. If you had one cut now and used it it would probably out live you.

[arcturus]

http://www.vp-autoparts.com/main.asp...ank&searchfld=

[Splinelube]

Originally Posted by arcturus

A spare replacement ignition key costs relatively pennies. I have one on the key ring. If you had one cut now and used it it would probably out live you.

Ok, however if broken off in the keyway as I have had happen it is a devil to withdraw the inserted piece. Regards, Russ

[Splinelube]

Originally Posted by Splinelube

Ok, however if broken off in the keyway as I have had happen it is a devil to withdraw the inserted piece. Regards, Russ

P>S> Thanks for the link.