Volvo 940 Wanting to Cut Out on Startup in Mornings - Page 4

Laird Scooby · Nov 20th, 2018, 11:03

That's almost certainly the gauge.

Flame traps are cheap, there's a variety on fleabay. Check which one you've got against the pretty pictures, if in doubt, ask the seller to confirm.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_f...+trap&_sacat=0

Oil separators usually respond well to cleaning, adding some synthetic ATF to the engine oil helps clean them out as well.
On the first page of this thread, there are photos of the oil separator including it's location on a partly stripped engine :

https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=285447

On some later models, Volvo offered a modification where the flame trap was lifted above the height of the inlet manifold which helped prevent oil clogging the flame trap. It can be easily achieved on a DIY basis by using a longer hose from the oil separator to the flame trap and re-routing the vacuum hose and hose to the filter housing from the flame trap - well worth doing in my experience!

albertsmith · Jan 7th, 2019, 10:38

Update - my words to my husband (told you so).

Hes cleaned the dizzy cap and replaced the rotor arm, checked the ht leads and lots more.

A few weeks ago well before christmas I asked him to order a new dizzy, ecu temp sensor and the other sensor, basically everything that could cause the problem. Well he said he would struggle on with it.

Its now not starting, fuel starvation. Hes ordered the ecu temp sensor part number 1346030 now and the car is just not having it at all. Its definitely fuel starvation as it lumps and then even if you press the accelerator right down, nothing gets it going.s
Hes still only filling it up with £20 worth of petrol and to me that is not good for the car, it needs filling up and kept topped up. I said to him if its too costly to fill with petrol then get rid and get a later volvo that may be a little more efficient.

Hes annoyed now and has to wait till the part comes. I had to take him to work this morning, and prob will have to all week and then wed, thur frid, go to my part time job after dropping him off.

But he kept putting off ordering parts for the car. I warned him about the car being damp in winter will make it worse, cold weather etc. I still think there is condensation in the tank even after meths, because he wont spend £60 filling it further.

My car is in for mot today, I had non-working hazards and i got mine in the mx5 garage and got it fixed plus the central locking before xmas because i knew the mot was due. Still it may still fail on the emissions as it just scraped through last year.

Laird Scooby · Jan 7th, 2019, 13:01

Do you know how much meths he actually added to the tank and what level the tank was at when he did it?

There could be other problems as well such as the RSR - Radio Suppression Relay - causing a non-start scenario but without getting the basics sorted, we're up against a brick wall in terms of diagnostics, especially remotely!

albertsmith · Jan 7th, 2019, 18:11

Quote:

Originally Posted by Laird Scooby

Do you know how much meths he actually added to the tank and what level the tank was at when he did it?

There could be other problems as well such as the RSR - Radio Suppression Relay - causing a non-start scenario but without getting the basics sorted, we're up against a brick wall in terms of diagnostics, especially remotely!

Tank was half full and 2 litres of meths. RSR, ok hes going to check that tomorrow after work. How will he know its not working?? And what does it look like.

albertsmith · Jan 7th, 2019, 18:54

Quote:

Originally Posted by albertsmith

Tank was half full and 2 litres of meths. RSR, ok hes going to check that tomorrow after work. How will he know its not working?? And what does it look like.

Bearing in mind the car is unmovable as we dont have homestart we may have to get it towed to a garage nearby.

Laird Scooby · Jan 7th, 2019, 19:03

Quote:

Originally Posted by albertsmith

Tank was half full and 2 litres of meths. RSR, ok hes going to check that tomorrow after work. How will he know its not working?? And what does it look like.

That's not enough meths to have done the job sadly. Experience has taught me that first it needs to be a minimum of 10% concentration so in half a tank (30L) you would have needed at least 3L of meths or waited until the fuel level was down to about 1/4 tank (15L) and then added the 2L of meths. Then run it for a few days before adding any more petrol.

The RSR might be the cause, i'd suggest doing the meths again first depending on the fuel level.

TonyS9 · Jan 8th, 2019, 16:18

My 2P

Revs dropping on startup - throttle body needs cleaned with injector cleaner

Won't rev - choking - Water on disti caused by leaky bonnet seal (mine does this), I added some plastic to divert the water. Also temporary you can squirt in WD40 use the straw, i think there is a small space to get it inside or in and around the outside.

Fuel starvation - Fuel rail pressure regulator is a commonish issue, but not improved by warm up.

ECU Temp sensor - Make sure it is faulty by measurment before bothering replacing. If you/hubby can't do it take it to someone who can.

Anyway if there is a consistent symptom it is solvable quickly, even a standard mechanic should be able to cope without a computer telling him what the fault is. Don't waste time changing commonly failing part, diagnose it or get it diagnosed.

albertsmith · Jan 8th, 2019, 17:19

Quote:

Originally Posted by TonyS9

My 2P

Revs dropping on startup - throttle body needs cleaned with injector cleaner

Won't rev - choking - Water on disti caused by leaky bonnet seal (mine does this), I added some plastic to divert the water. Also temporary you can squirt in WD40 use the straw, i think there is a small space to get it inside or in and around the outside.

Fuel starvation - Fuel rail pressure regulator is a commonish issue, but not improved by warm up.

ECU Temp sensor - Make sure it is faulty by measurment before bothering replacing. If you/hubby can't do it take it to someone who can.

Anyway if there is a consistent symptom it is solvable quickly, even a standard mechanic should be able to cope without a computer telling him what the fault is. Don't waste time changing commonly failing part, diagnose it or get it diagnosed.

This morning before taking him to work I gave him some places to ring. He has arranged for George Reid diagnostics to come out to the car at our house while we are at work tomorrow while its on the road/pavement. Ive used him before on my mx5 to diagnose a cat fault. Hes put another can of petrol in it and I bought some injector cleaner today and left that in the car for George. Hopefully he can diagnose the fault while we are at work. He said he will diagnose and get it started and get the part that is needed if its not the temp sensor that we have already ordered.

TonyS9 · Jan 9th, 2019, 11:16

Sorry the throttle body cleaning is done with intake cleaner (traditionally known as carb cleaner) not injector cleaner (my bad). The throttle body has to be removed for this, but its not a big job.

BTW replacement dizzy (base) is £300+ and not likely to provide any fix if its a water leak issue. A dizzy cap is expensive enough, and I wouldn't replace unless it obviously faulty. Occasionally I will clean it. I'd certainly try a used unit (cap and/or base) before any new parts. Other options are a front mounted dizzy from older red block engines or a wasted spark conversion (coil pack and no dizzy).

albertsmith · Jan 9th, 2019, 19:35

Diagnostics guy rang this afternoon, turned out it was the crank sensor that was faulty and all the spark plugs were replaced because they were all sooty and black. These plugs were changed last year.

But £122 later its finally running. Hes going to fill it up with petrol more instead of travelling on £20 worth.

And ive told him to start with new hoses, temp sensor, basically go over everything with a fine tooth comb.

Learnt his lesson!!

Nov 20th, 2018, 11:03	#31
Laird Scooby Premier Member Last Online: Yesterday 12:22 Join Date: May 2012 Location: Lakenheath	That's almost certainly the gauge. Flame traps are cheap, there's a variety on fleabay. Check which one you've got against the pretty pictures, if in doubt, ask the seller to confirm. https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_f...+trap&_sacat=0 Oil separators usually respond well to cleaning, adding some synthetic ATF to the engine oil helps clean them out as well. On the first page of this thread, there are photos of the oil separator including it's location on a partly stripped engine : https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=285447 On some later models, Volvo offered a modification where the flame trap was lifted above the height of the inlet manifold which helped prevent oil clogging the flame trap. It can be easily achieved on a DIY basis by using a longer hose from the oil separator to the flame trap and re-routing the vacuum hose and hose to the filter housing from the flame trap - well worth doing in my experience! __________________ Cheers Dave Next Door to Top-Gun with a Honda CR-V & S Type Jag Volvo gone but not forgotten........

Jan 7th, 2019, 13:01	#33
Laird Scooby Premier Member Last Online: Yesterday 12:22 Join Date: May 2012 Location: Lakenheath	Do you know how much meths he actually added to the tank and what level the tank was at when he did it? There could be other problems as well such as the RSR - Radio Suppression Relay - causing a non-start scenario but without getting the basics sorted, we're up against a brick wall in terms of diagnostics, especially remotely! __________________ Cheers Dave Next Door to Top-Gun with a Honda CR-V & S Type Jag Volvo gone but not forgotten........

Jan 8th, 2019, 16:18	#37
TonyS9 Premier Member Last Online: Apr 9th, 2024 21:44 Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Holywood	My 2P Revs dropping on startup - throttle body needs cleaned with injector cleaner Won't rev - choking - Water on disti caused by leaky bonnet seal (mine does this), I added some plastic to divert the water. Also temporary you can squirt in WD40 use the straw, i think there is a small space to get it inside or in and around the outside. Fuel starvation - Fuel rail pressure regulator is a commonish issue, but not improved by warm up. ECU Temp sensor - Make sure it is faulty by measurment before bothering replacing. If you/hubby can't do it take it to someone who can. Anyway if there is a consistent symptom it is solvable quickly, even a standard mechanic should be able to cope without a computer telling him what the fault is. Don't waste time changing commonly failing part, diagnose it or get it diagnosed. Last edited by TonyS9; Jan 8th, 2019 at 16:23.

Jan 9th, 2019, 19:35	#40
albertsmith Junior Member Last Online: Jan 13th, 2019 10:55 Join Date: Aug 2016 Location: Bury	Finally! Diagnostics guy rang this afternoon, turned out it was the crank sensor that was faulty and all the spark plugs were replaced because they were all sooty and black. These plugs were changed last year. But £122 later its finally running. Hes going to fill it up with petrol more instead of travelling on £20 worth. And ive told him to start with new hoses, temp sensor, basically go over everything with a fine tooth comb. Learnt his lesson!!

Jan 7th, 2019, 10:38	#32
albertsmith Junior Member Last Online: Jan 13th, 2019 10:55 Join Date: Aug 2016 Location: Bury	Update - my words to my husband (told you so). Hes cleaned the dizzy cap and replaced the rotor arm, checked the ht leads and lots more. A few weeks ago well before christmas I asked him to order a new dizzy, ecu temp sensor and the other sensor, basically everything that could cause the problem. Well he said he would struggle on with it. Its now not starting, fuel starvation. Hes ordered the ecu temp sensor part number 1346030 now and the car is just not having it at all. Its definitely fuel starvation as it lumps and then even if you press the accelerator right down, nothing gets it going.s Hes still only filling it up with £20 worth of petrol and to me that is not good for the car, it needs filling up and kept topped up. I said to him if its too costly to fill with petrol then get rid and get a later volvo that may be a little more efficient. Hes annoyed now and has to wait till the part comes. I had to take him to work this morning, and prob will have to all week and then wed, thur frid, go to my part time job after dropping him off. But he kept putting off ordering parts for the car. I warned him about the car being damp in winter will make it worse, cold weather etc. I still think there is condensation in the tank even after meths, because he wont spend £60 filling it further. My car is in for mot today, I had non-working hazards and i got mine in the mx5 garage and got it fixed plus the central locking before xmas because i knew the mot was due. Still it may still fail on the emissions as it just scraped through last year.

Jan 9th, 2019, 11:16	#39
TonyS9 Premier Member Last Online: Apr 9th, 2024 21:44 Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Holywood	Sorry the throttle body cleaning is done with intake cleaner (traditionally known as carb cleaner) not injector cleaner (my bad). The throttle body has to be removed for this, but its not a big job. BTW replacement dizzy (base) is £300+ and not likely to provide any fix if its a water leak issue. A dizzy cap is expensive enough, and I wouldn't replace unless it obviously faulty. Occasionally I will clean it. I'd certainly try a used unit (cap and/or base) before any new parts. Other options are a front mounted dizzy from older red block engines or a wasted spark conversion (coil pack and no dizzy).

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