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PV, 120 (Amazon), 1800 General Forum for the Volvo PV, 120 and 1800 cars |
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Sheared Bolt...Help!!Views : 2066 Replies : 20Users Viewing This Thread : |
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Nov 23rd, 2008, 18:52 | #1 |
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Location: Co. Cork, Ireland.
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Sheared Bolt...Help!!
Disaster has come my way in the form of a sheared bolt. Any advice would be much appreciated. I was tackling my long awaited water pump renewal on my '70 B20 Amazon and I also wanted to put in a new thermostat. Everything was going fine, I had the rad out and the hoses taken off and then started removing the thermostat housing. Both bolts were stiff, but the left one came off eventually, but the right one refused to budge and eventually sheared right off. I was a bit miffed as ye can imagine. Now, I have some bolt removal kits and, full of confidence, I tried them out. The smaller bits didnt work, just kept turning. I had a bigger one that I left till last because I didnt want to risk damaging the sides of the housing. I used it attached to the drill and sure enough, it bit into the sheared bolt. But, still the bolt wouldnt move and eventually the drill actually started to burn out! And it wasn't a cordless, I mean a good 750 watt DeWalt! It really is stuck and now I am starting to get a bit worried. The housing eventually came off which left a bit sticking up. I tried cutting a groove with a hacksaw so I could get a slot screwdriver in it, but as expected that didnt work either. I have put plenty of WD40 on it but nothing is working. Advice please, I am afraid to go further in case I damage the block threads. Picture below, not a pretty sight........ Thanks in advance, Hugh.
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Nov 23rd, 2008, 19:11 | #2 |
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only thing i could think on is to drill it and tap it to the next size thred but see what others say first
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i kno im a dirty beastie sadley no longer rest in peace in volvo heaven NOTICE OF DISCLAIMER any information i give is soley on my own findings and mess ups |
Nov 23rd, 2008, 19:34 | #3 |
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File it flat, center punch and start drilling it out....Start with small drill and work up in steps then retap......I have never had any success with "easy outs" they break and make the job 10 times worse...
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Nov 23rd, 2008, 20:36 | #4 |
V70 T5 - 1999 140mls
Last Online: Apr 28th, 2012 03:21
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Three things I would try.
1. Get an aerosol can of 'Plus Gas', or 'heat freeze' and use them. WD40 is not a lubricant, it is a water dispersing agent and whilst good for most things doesn't always cut it for this type of job. Soak the threads in Plus Gas (which is a parrafin based penetrant) and leave for an hour or two. Or try 'Heat Freeze' it is a mixture of parrafin plus it feezes any rust/corrosion, and the thawing action breaks up any corrosion around the threads, hopefully freeing them up. 2. File the top of the protruding bolt flat (as said before) and use a centre punch to punch two indents on the face of the bolt 180 degrees apart near the outer edge. Then hit each indent in turn anti clockwise swithing to opposite indents each time, the shock will likely get it moving. 3. Heat! use a blowtorch to heat the surrounding area up gently all over and when hot use method 2 above. I have never had any succes in using bolt removers (easy outs) they are usually made of too soft a metal and just spin round on the job. |
Nov 23rd, 2008, 21:49 | #5 |
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Location: essex
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all posible methods
but if you have acess to a welder you could try welding stud to what is left and file the excess weld off so the housing its again just thinkin outside the box LN |
Nov 23rd, 2008, 22:52 | #6 |
VOC Member
Last Online: Dec 14th, 2023 12:57
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Location: fareham
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I would advise filing the bolt level with the head then accurately center pop the affected bolt. Start with a small size drill then progressively work larger sizes. You need to take it out to just under 'core' size which for a 5/16th is around 6mm (eh what!!). Once there you should be able to 'collapse' the thread with a scribe or similar sharp pointed instrument. One thing when drilling to depth be careful how deep you go as you do not want to compromise the head. Get an idea from the other bolt hole.
From experience this is the only reliable method. Others may be quicker if the bolt frees but if that easi out or other method shears you are in a pot HTH Russ |
Nov 23rd, 2008, 23:07 | #7 |
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I have found when drilling a broken stud out it is sometimes worth puting the drill in reverse. With the vibration from drilling it sometimes helps loosen the stud. Before doing this I would try soaking it in release oil over night. Best of luck.
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Nov 23rd, 2008, 23:13 | #8 |
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i never thought of the welder esp if you can sit a nut on top very well and mig weld it on a high heat let it cool well first then try to spanner it out
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i kno im a dirty beastie sadley no longer rest in peace in volvo heaven NOTICE OF DISCLAIMER any information i give is soley on my own findings and mess ups |
Nov 23rd, 2008, 23:15 | #9 |
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i usually drill a small hole and hammer a torx into it, crude, but effictive
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Nov 23rd, 2008, 23:32 | #10 |
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torx are good on alen key wheel nuts to
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i kno im a dirty beastie sadley no longer rest in peace in volvo heaven NOTICE OF DISCLAIMER any information i give is soley on my own findings and mess ups |
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