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Sheared Bolt...Help!!

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Old Nov 24th, 2008, 00:26   #11
Andrew (UK)
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Cut/file flat. Centre punch and drill out to core size as stated above. You can try reverse thread drill bits, theory being that the heat and vibration will sometimes free the stud and it will come out with the reverse action, didn't work for me. Get a tap of the correct size and run it in. If the stud is that corroded then trying to collapse the remaining threads is unlikely to work.
If all else fails get a helicoil kit of the appropriate size and pitch. This will allow you to fit a stud of the correct size instead of going up a size and all the hassle that will cause in later maintenance.

It's a pain, but not a disaster.
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Old Nov 24th, 2008, 21:06   #12
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Thanks a million guys for all the advice. A great response, proves what a great message board this is. Now I feel a bit of a twit using the WD40, I should have known better. But in my defence thats all I have at the moment. I will try and get a proper penetrating fluid tomorrow. One thing I have noticed though. I can see evidence of a hard gunky substance around the hole in the housing and around the broken off piece of bolt. There is no evidence on the other bolt. I wonder in the past was some kind of locking fluid or similar used as it wasnt tightening properly. I suppose its irrelevant now, except it might make the rest of it really hard to get out. I think I will use the penetrating fluid and leave it soak for a few hours. Then I might heat the surrounding area gently and then try the punch method. If that fails I can always bore out and tap a bigger bolt. Or how about these helicoil things? I know nothing about them, are they worth it, or any good? In the meantime I am forging ahead with the rest of the work. I got the old water pump off last night (early this morning really) and what a state it was in. No wonder it was noisy, the impeller was actually rubbing off the inside of the housing! such was the amount of play in it A good clean down of the surrounding area of the build up of oily gunk and so on was called for and I gave the rad, expansion bottle and engine block a good flush out with the hose. One thing I did notice though which I found a bit worrying; the bolts holding on the old pump were quite difficult to unscrew, and when I got them out the threads on each bolt were full with a dusty rusty substance as if they were rusted in. Should I try and clean out the bolt holes?
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Old Nov 25th, 2008, 00:59   #13
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Helicoiling is one way to fix the bolt hole, it is used frequently to fix stripped spark plug holes so must be good, as for the rusty bolt holes for the old pump i would flood them with a good penetrating fluid then coat the bolts with copper grease or similar before refitting.
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Old Nov 25th, 2008, 01:23   #14
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Th e "hard gunky stuff" maybe Loctite if the thread was stripped or damaged. The hard locking type can usually be loosened with heat. A small butane torch will do the job if it is that. As said drilling out shouldn't be a problem but you need a GOOD drill bit. Ones from cheap sets don't usually have what it takes. Not easy to get a good hold of the drill and push down straight either. Filled flat. a good centre punch dead centre should enable you to use 2 sizes of drill to get you right out to the thread. A needle file will make a cut to let you pry out the thread that remains. If you find that the thread in the head is damaged and unusable a helicoil is best if you can borrow the tool.
Get new bolts for your pump. Take one of the old ones and hack saw it lengthwise down through the thread to the smooth part. Run this in and out of the holes to clean out the threads. Use some of the penetrating oil on this.
Obviously if you have a suitable tap, use that.
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Old Nov 25th, 2008, 10:21   #15
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When drilling, go slowly and lubricate ! Running the drill fast will simply burn out the drill bit.......I often find a cordless gives me more control over speed....Using the other bolt as an indicator, mark the required depth with some tape on your drill bit, would not be nice to go too deep !

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Old Nov 28th, 2008, 17:08   #16
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Well, I have tried proper penetrating fluid but no use. I tried heating the block and using a punch on the offending bolt but no use either. The damn thing is well and truly stuck. I reckon my only option now is to drill it out and possibly tap and die it. I got myself a tap and die set, but its metric. I supposed that dosent matter as long as I get the proper bolt to match it. However, I am a bit nervous about doing this, I have never used a tap and die set before. Has anyone any tips about good technique, what I should look out for and so on?
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Old Nov 28th, 2008, 21:42   #17
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I think you'll regret using a metric tap (you don't need the die in this case) as that will mean a different nut on the end, so a different socket to undo it. Just search for 'unc tap' on eBay.

As for technique with the tap:
1) Lubricate it
2) Be very sure you are going in perpendicular.
3) Be very very sure you are going in perpendicular.
4) Go slowly
5) Back off a little after every twist you make, to break the swarf up
6) You can line the tap channels with grease to trap the swarf if you are worried about it getting into places it shouldn't eg when cleaning spark plug threads.
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Old Nov 30th, 2008, 15:34   #18
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I just can't sit by while certain members, who shall be nameless, besmirch the venerable easy out without defending it's vital role in removing a broken stud. I have been using them in all sorts of situations over the past 48+- years and have always found them to work well WHEN USED PROPERLY. If the stud in question was so rusted that the bolt head sheared off, why would anyone think that an ease out would somehow magically remove that same stud without first attempting to dissolve that bond. A few tips-use as big an ease out as you can, start the drilling process with a small pilot hole then move up to that max size. The removal of the core of the bolt will allow the threads to flex a bit making removal easier, try some "liquid wrench" first if available-if the area to be dismantled is accessible and the condition questionable (say you're about to remover the exhaust down pipe from the header), apply the l/w a few times in the days preceding the work as it will make a difference, heating with any torch should be done with great care especially if the surrounding area is cast iron-remember the friction from the act of drilling will produce quite a bit of heat anyway. And last of all BE PATIENT & use common sense. If an ease out is beginning to torque that's a clue that the tool is close to failing. Last of all, locate a heli-coil distributor in your area-just in case.
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Old Dec 19th, 2008, 21:40   #19
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Just to update how it all went for me. Not great if truth be told, although it did work out ok in the end. Here is what happened and it may be of use to someone who finds themselves in the same predicament. A friend I know told me about using a proper stud remover, not just any stud remover he said, but a proper professional one. He explained about one he has which has a yoke to enable you to drill down the centre of the sheared bolt. Then you insert a hardened splined rod down into the centre of the bolt. Then you put a special nut over the splined rod and then you can use a spanner on the nut. Excellent sounds like a great idea and way better than the cheaper stud removers I was trying to use. This is a really great stud remover and in most circumstances it will undoubtedly work. But however in mine, it was not to be. I did as it said on the tin only for the splined rod to shear off!! Now I didnt put too much pressure on it, honest! Anyway, as you can imagine, I was pretty pi**ed off! I had now inserted a hardened steel rod all the way down the centre of the sheared bolt! There was no way that this rod could be drilled out, bits were bouncing off it. What I did was to drill around it using small 1.5mm or 2mm bits. As you can imagine most of them broke. I took me over two weeks and a shed load of patience but eventually I got the splined rod and the rest of the sheared bolt out. I thought I would definitley have to tap it after all the damage I did to the threads but luckily there was enough of them left and a plenty at the bottom of the hole. I ran a tap down it to clean it out and I was delighted to find that a proper sized bolt would still fit. Now I certainly learned a valuable lesson. If I had just kept drilling instead of inserting the rod I would saved myself a lot of hassle. Ah well, you live and learn I guess.
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Old Dec 19th, 2008, 23:59   #20
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Hugh;

To go along with good info in other postings, I will add that use of the tinyest dab of anti-seize would have prevented this whole darn problem in the first place...since this is the first time you've tried to loosen this fastener, it's not your fault obviously, but it does make the point for using it in the future and certainly on these fasteners (which are subject to galvanic action...T-stat housing is dissimillar to iron fasteners and block).

Also (another bit of advice after the damage is done...when it clearly wont help you this time, but perhaps in the future or on the next fastener) one needs to develop a sense of feeling for fasteners...if it seems like one is requiring too much torque to loosen, then STOP and apply a proper penetrant (which WD-40 is not...it is predominantly a solvent...I personally hate the stuff) and let it penetrate over night, the reapply just before trying again. Also, a little back and forth is sometimes better than just back...

I would recommend drilling progressively larger also...if you are perfectly centered, once you get to the thread-root, you should be able to pick it out with a right angle pick...miserable job for sure, but such are the trials of vintage car ownership...a thread cutter (called a "tap" stateside) may help cut away the spiral remains of bolt also...in the worse case, you can go oversized, but this is a last resort (beware of ingress into cooling system!).

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