My V70- A Rolling Restoration Project.

[Tentontimmy]

Thoroughly enjoying this thread as I like to see neglected V70s getting some love. Thanks. Looking forward to more.

[barrybritcher]

is it a 170ps?

how does it feel compared to a diesel?

I'm thinking of getting a manual NA or D5 one day

[T5R92011]

Good thread.

It pains me to see V70's going to any kind of early death. They are such useful load luggers and owning an extremely high mileage one myself has opened my eyes to just how good these cars are if properly maintained.

Whenever I see any X/Y reg vehicles on the road these days, it is almost always a P2 V70... older cars are disppearing real fast due to PCP/leasing revolution sucking people in, so its nice to (as usual) see that Volvos are making up a nice chunk of the older vehicles on the road.

[LPTJoe]

Thanks chaps.

I've always stuck with nineties/turn of the millenium motors as for me that's kind of the sweet spot- Simple enough to work on at home and yet for the most part galvanised and less susceptible to rust.

The P2 Volvo's are great. It's probably sacrilege to say this, but I actually prefer the V70 to the RWD 940 turbo I ran before it.

Originally Posted by barrybritcher

is it a 170ps?

how does it feel compared to a diesel?

I'm thinking of getting a manual NA or D5 one day

It's just a 140ps donkey I'm afraid but it's plenty for the car IMO.

I've never driven a diesel V70 but did drive S80 in D5 Euro 3 flavour for a bit. The S80 would manage low 40's MPG wise whilst the petrol engine hits high 20's. The D5 is faster and has a chunk more torque, but it's also noisy, smelly and coarse. As diesel engines go the D5 is about as robust as they come but there's still more potential for niggles when compared with a normally aspirated petrol car. IME, anything that goes wrong with petrol stuff is usually simple and cheap to fix and given I don't cover vast mileages I tend to favour them on that basis and also as they're more refined.

[LPTJoe]

Right

Next up on this was brakes. New pads and discs were fitted all round. As mentioned, I knew all four calipers were seized to varying degrees.

Sliders were cleaned/rubbed back/greased. After this the boots were pulled back and the caliper pistons were gently forced out using the brake pedal to allow them to be sanded, coated in brake fluid and then forced back in...








Three of the calipers were saved this way, the drivers side rear was beyond repair and as a result was replaced...





Followed by a full pressure flush of the system, replacing the ancient brake fluid with fresh DOT4.

[Dazza95]

Looking great. Those mats are fantastic, I have a set in my 2006 S60 which are actually from a 2002 model and they clean up perfectly every time and still look new.

[LPTJoe]

Next step was to clean the MAF/Sensor, nothing actually wrong with it but good practice on a new car and also good preventative maintenance...







After that, the inoperative cruise control was tracked down to a faulty clutch position sensor. Access to these isn't to bad...





A resistor was going to be added, but before that could happen another sensor was procured from a car in a local scrapyard for the princely sum of £5 and found when tested with a multimeter to be perfectly within range.

A protective 'sheath' was constructed to avoid the sensor getting wet...





After installation the cruise control worked perfectly, all fixed for a fiver. Deep joy.

[LPTJoe]

I'm conscious there aren't many pics of shiny Volvo's here thus far, but the key for me has always been to make sure a car's mechanically sound before bothering with cosmetics- That's the way forward.

Apologies everyone!

Shortly after the last thrilling instalment, the car had an MOT- The only advisory being an inballance on the handbrake (On a P2 Volvo- Shock!)

The brakes were stripped down (Again) They had already had the old fashioned adjusters fitted...





Whilst in there, daft not to grasp the opportunity to fit new shoes, therefore avoiding delamination and the hub(s) being destroyed. Again, not genuine Volvo parts but good aftermarket. Nothing wrong with the old ones IMO, but at £15 it was foolish not to- cheap insurance....





Around this time a scrap car turned up locally, it was the exact same model (140ps manual 2001)...





The ETM was grabbed. Not too hard to remove (Once the starter motor had been knocked out) Technically these need coding, and also this one might be already goosed... But for the sake of £10 it was grabbed/cleaned and boxed up as a 'just in case' on the basis of there not being much to loose...

[BlueRubber]

Originally Posted by LPTJoe

I'm conscious there aren't many pics of shiny Volvo's here thus far, but the key for me has always been to make sure a car's mechanically sound before bothering with cosmetics- That's the way forward.

Apologies everyone!

I don't know about anyone else, but there I much prefer to see these sorts of pics and updates than pics of shiny Volvo's. There are many of the latter but few of the former!

How could you tell this car in the scrap yard was a 140ps rather than 170ps?

I need to do my rear brakes so seeing the position of the adjuster is helpful.
Just building up the courage to do it.
Any tips for getting off the disc if it gets stuck against the brake shoes due to the worn disc? - That is what I am most nervous about.

[Georgeandkira]

Here's where a Volvo mechanic could provide real data, but alas...

In my experience there isn't much of a ridge on the parking brake drum to hang you up. Any parking brake drum ridge will be nothing compared to what you can get on the front rotors.
Much more likely is rust welding to the hub.
Apply penetrant where the rotor and hub meet.
Have a hammer ready and raise both rear wheels so you can rotate the rotor and repeatedly hit it if necessary.
Obviously have a wire wheel and drill ready to clean the hub before reassembly.
If the PO installed the star wheel adjuster you can reach through a lug hole and open the shoes.