Any Advice, Part 2!

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by Stephen Edwin

Are there different edition, model years, if possibly so which have you referenced please?
.

It doesn't matter, the procedure is the same for all red block OHC engines. Although the article references the B230, the stripdown and rebuild was done on a B23ET so obviously applies to all red block OHC engines.

[Stephen Edwin]

David.

I should like to purchase one of the Haynes manual that you are referencing. Which 740/760 Haynes Owners Workshop Manual is it please?

Thank you.




Edit. Also to all and everyone. It seems likely an early Haynes for 240 might have equivalent content? Does anyone know please?






.

[Othen]

Originally Posted by Laird Scooby

Not that it makes any difference as it still covers the B230 but it's the 740/760 Haynes Owners Workshop Manual - not one of the Mickey Mouse "Service and Repair" manuals that don't give information.

Ah ha! That is why I could not find it in my BofH Dave, it is for the 240/B21 motor.

In my book there are just two sentences regarding timing belt adjustment in ch1.sect.30 neither of which mentions adjustment at TDC for #1, either for initial fitment or re-tensioning at 600 miles (just one sentence on that). I was not doubting you, and thank you for looking up the details.

I think we might have to agree to disagree about engines tending to stop at TDC - in my limited experience of 4 cylinder engines in cars and bikes they almost always stop at the 90/270 degree position before the pressure in the cylinder on its compression stroke gets too high, and the pressure in the cylinder on its power stroke gets too low so they more or less balance each other. This doesn't matter a fig of course, its only manifestation is that the starter ring tends to only wear in two places - otherwise it doesn't make any difference. You may well be right and I've just got that wrong over the years.

When I re-tensioned the belt on my B21a motor I didn't particularly set the engine at TDC (I had not heard of that requirement at the time), it was a little bit quieter afterwards though, so I'm guessing the belt was either a little bit tight or loose at that point.

All is well now :-)

Alan

PS. This is all the detail the 240 BofH contains (apologies for the poor photo):

[Stephen Edwin]

David.

I really should like to buy a copy of the specific manual you are referring to. From the simple page numbering I suspect it is an early edition. The earliest edition I can find is 1982-1986. But I am shdow boxing in the dark trying to find the actual book you are referring to. Which edition of Haynes are you referring to please?




.

[loki_the_glt]

In neither of the two Haynes manuals for the Volvo 240 I have to hand (ISBN 0856962708 and ISBN 085696591X) is any mention made of the need to re-tension the belt. As these are from 1977 and 1981 respectively it would suggest that Volvo discovered the need to re-tension the belt at some later stage.

The only other manual I have to hand is the Service and Repair one for the 940 (ISBN 9780857336514, copyright 2007) which instructs the owner/servicer to re-tension the belt with No.1 cylinder at TDC on the firing stroke and, where a new belt has been fitted, to repeat this after 600 miles.

I shall haveto dig out my other 240 manual and the 700-series one and see what they say about the matter.

If Othen or Chris is working from an early manual then that would account for their being unaware of the specifics around the (re-)tensioning of the belt.

Stephen Edwin may now be able to track down the Haynes manuals that he needs by checking the above ISBNs.

[Laird Scooby]

I think yours was written at a time when Haynes assumed people would set it to TDC on #1 as that was how checking the tension was specified earlier in the text by inference of fitting the belt in that position.

They have since improved things and made it much clearer! Another thing that caught me out with my 144 auto was they don't (or didn't at the time) say anything about re-toequing the cylinder head bolts after 600 miles as i found out after the head gasket failed after about 3000 miles. Later i learned it was common practice to not only re-torque them but to crack each bolt 1/2 turn first so the torque wrench wasn't reading the torque the bolt was already at and giving a false reading!

[Othen]

Originally Posted by Laird Scooby

I think yours was written at a time when Haynes assumed people would set it to TDC on #1 as that was how checking the tension was specified earlier in the text by inference of fitting the belt in that position.

They have since improved things and made it much clearer! Another thing that caught me out with my 144 auto was they don't (or didn't at the time) say anything about re-toequing the cylinder head bolts after 600 miles as i found out after the head gasket failed after about 3000 miles. Later i learned it was common practice to not only re-torque them but to crack each bolt 1/2 turn first so the torque wrench wasn't reading the torque the bolt was already at and giving a false reading!

You are probably right about the belt thing Dave, I'll remember for the next one in 2025 :-)



I did re-torque the head bolts about a month after I changed the cylinder head. I'm not sure the BofH told me to, I have a feeling there was a note with either the gasket set or the new head bolts. Tell me, should one crack all the head bolts - then start doing them up in the pattern, or crack then torque them one at a time?

Alan

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by Othen

You are probably right about the belt thing Dave, I'll remember for the next one in 2025 :-)



I did re-torque the head bolts about a month after I changed the cylinder head. I'm not sure the BofH told me to, I have a feeling there was a note with either the gasket set or the new head bolts. Tell me, should one crack all the head bolts - then start doing them up in the pattern, or crack then torque them one at a time?

Alan

Crack and re-torque the bolts in the tightening sequence Alan, that way the head can't move on the gasket.
In other words, using the tightening sequence, crack #1 and re-torque, crack #2 and re-torque and so on.

[Stephen Edwin]

Originally Posted by Stephen Edwin

David.

I should like to purchase one of the Haynes manual that you are referencing. Which 740/760 Haynes Owners Workshop Manual is it please?

Thank you.




Edit. Also to all and everyone. It seems likely an early Haynes for 240 might have equivalent content? Does anyone know please?



.

If you can specify the edition of the manual David I should be grateful

I have found and purchased what appears to be the correct one.

We have all known for ages that Haynes varies. That copy you are referring to appears to be rather ... interesting.



.

[Bob Meadows]

Not in:~
Hayes 0270, 1974-1993 up to KReg Red Cover Estate Picture

Hayes 270, 1974 to '93 1986cc 2127cc & 2316cc Green Cover Saloon Cut away drawing.

Also not in Autodata 288 240-244-245.
Bob.