AWD Transmission: Transmission hesitates and clunks into D.

[Bashy]

Originally Posted by VOLVOBOY

My car doesn`t have the feature and i shift into neutral when stationary. I do this for a few reasons , one is i hate the idea of the engine lugging against the transmission. It seems like slipping the clutch and causing unecessary wear.
Using the handbrake to keep it working nicely. There must be an increase in fuel consumption as well , i would think. Also , when i first got the car i would sit on the brake . I got through loads of brake bulbs which really cheesed me off.
The other feature which i`ve never liked is the warm up shift delay. On first pull-away the car hangs much tool long in 2nd for my liking and then when it does shift it goes with a real lurch.So i always use geartronic from cold for the first mile or two and take it gently.
The car is coming up for it`s fourth trans-oil change and is still sweet as a nut.

Originally Posted by Willow place

It was me Bashy ! The extra cooler worked fine and made a big difference but it now appears the 'box is reverting back to it's old way, that's why I have considered putting another cooler in Tandem , the 'box is smooth as silk until it gets hot , even reverse is so smooth ,cannot even feel the take up , everthing changes as it should , just the Delay in Reverse or rush it and get a massive Clunk !!

Sounds like we all have pretty much the same issue at varying degrees of severity. That being the valve body, this is a good read and explains whats going on...

I thought that was you chap, sorry to hear its raised its ugly head again.
I take it you've checked the Lower Torque mount and the upper rear engine mount and the drive bolts, the latter 2 resolved about 95-98% of my clunking. I could probably benefit from another fluid change now too seen as its probably mixed in well now.

Ive also read (last sentence in the 1st paragraph here) that adding a Lucas additive can help, it does not state which one but, Willow, this 1st one is supposed to lower the temp, the hotter the temp plays a big part in our issues....

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Lucas-Oil-1...dp/B000ARTZPO/

A Volvo review for the above link

Nojus
5.0 out of 5 stars Works as expected
Reviewed in the United Kingdom on 15 February 2020
Verified Purchase
I've seen a review by Project Farm and decided to try it on my Volvo V70 2003 auto as it was shifting hard when cold and then flaring when hot. I've only driven about 200km since i filled it with this product, but i can already say that it works at least 50% better. Of course this might change, but as of now I am very happy with this product!

Update: after 2000km it seems to be back as it was when the oil is cold. It does stop misbehaving once it heats up (after a good 20min of driving). I don't think I've wasted money but I am not sure if I would buy it again since I do a lot of short trips to work and back.

The other is a conditioner, it does state not for CVT boxes, whatever those are??

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Lucas-Oil-L.../dp/B00F9A2W84

Its knowing which one to chose, perhaps both, I ain't got a clue lol but I do like the idea of the former one lowering the temp, I cant stress enough how much of a difference the drive bolts, one was about hanging on by one thread and the rear top mount change made, it was like night and day, I still get a wee clunk when changing into R from P, N or D, BUT, not always, eg, come back from the journey, pull into driveway, select R from D, NO clunk, I drive back for a few seconds and realise I have to readjust (still not used to the dam size and the stupid bump down the sides), so back to D to straight up, then back in to R and then I get the clunk, but its not as bad as it was prior to that to mount change and drive bolt tighten.....

This is my experience and just an FYI, except for the info above from Horton cars

[Kev0607]

Originally Posted by Bashy

Sounds like we all have pretty much the same issue at varying degrees of severity. That being the valve body, this is a good read and explains whats going on...

I thought that was you chap, sorry to hear its raised its ugly head again.
I take it you've checked the Lower Torque mount and the upper rear engine mount and the drive bolts, the latter 2 resolved about 95-98% of my clunking. I could probably benefit from another fluid change now too seen as its probably mixed in well now.

Ive also read (last sentence in the 1st paragraph here) that adding a Lucas additive can help, it does not state which one but, Willow, this 1st one is supposed to lower the temp, the hotter the temp plays a big part in our issues....

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Lucas-Oil-1...dp/B000ARTZPO/

A Volvo review for the above link



The other is a conditioner, it does state not for CVT boxes, whatever those are??

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Lucas-Oil-L.../dp/B00F9A2W84

Its knowing which one to chose, perhaps both, I ain't got a clue lol but I do like the idea of the former one lowering the temp, I cant stress enough how much of a difference the drive bolts, one was about hanging on by one thread and the rear top mount change made, it was like night and day, I still get a wee clunk when changing into R from P, N or D, BUT, not always, eg, come back from the journey, pull into driveway, select R from D, NO clunk, I drive back for a few seconds and realise I have to readjust (still not used to the dam size and the stupid bump down the sides), so back to D to straight up, then back in to R and then I get the clunk, but its not as bad as it was prior to that to mount change and drive bolt tighten.....

This is my experience and just an FYI, except for the info above from Horton cars

Here's some info on CVT's :

https://www.autoexpress.co.uk/car-te...-a-cvt-gearbox

[Bashy]

Originally Posted by Kev0607

Here's some info on CVT's :

https://www.autoexpress.co.uk/car-te...-a-cvt-gearbox

Thanks, now I know lol

[barrybritcher]

for what it's worth mines been fine since 3rd flush and reset of adaptations.

Thats the last ditch thing before start changing valves.

So give the adaptations a go in VIDA

[Willow place]

Does it need this VIDA thing or can a normal diagnostics machine reset the adaptions , don't want to spend to much more, the car has Small dents 2 large scrapes and Terrible paintwork (Sun damage) !

[oragex]

You'll need a more advanced scanner. Most $150 scanners won't reset adaptations. The $150 scanners are weird, one model does one thing, another one does another thing, not all the same. Those with more functions will work for one car brand only, those with limited functions work for all brands, and so on. Your best bet is to have a garage do it - they usually have more expensive $300-$500 scanners that have all functions for all car brands. I still managed to buy a $150 one that does it but it's fiddly and in fact it said 'operation failed' but still it did reset them and I could get the car through the relearn procedure even if it wasn't displaying correctly the relearning. The usual Chinese stuff https://youtu.be/AroFU5jV3x4

[Bashy]

About the cheapest option is prob get Volvo to do it, I was quoted about £75 to check for upgrades and perform them if needed, the adaptions is a few clicks and job done, that's for the reset only and it learns over time, so I doubt it would cost any more than that. If you wanted them to perform them manually, meaning they would take the car out and perform the few steps needed to teach the box, saying that, that's prob no more than 30 minutes work, could run to an hour if their goto road for performing this isn't close by.....

One more cheap option would be to put a shout out to see if anyone in your locale has Vida/Dice that's willing to do I for you, might be a long shot seen as where you are, shame ya not near me, I would have done so for fuel

[eVolved]

Originally Posted by Georgeandkira

A new Volvo filter kit, you say? It has always been written here that replacing the filter required removal of the engine/transmission combo and opening the transmission. Did you do this?

Given all the parts listed in the suggestions I fear a suggestion of adding a bottle of LubeGard (red bottle) will sound juvenile. I learned about it on an oil board. Lots of people use the stuff.

My '02 had a sloppy 2-3 shift. My B4 servo cover wasn't broken (not involved with your scenario). The PO had the unit flushed clean at a Volvo dealership long before I bought it. I had the TCM "reflashed" at a Volvo dealership and it helped.

However, the mechanic-in-a-can I mentioned above, greatly improved the trannie's shifting. I drove that car from 70K to 198K (as many here know) and the finicky buyer experienced no shifting woe.

Be aware that they make several products hence the "red bottle" specification.

Here's a link to an Amazon listing for the product:http://www.amazon.com/Lubegard-60902...omotive&sr=1-1

This is a USA listing for the photo only as I cannot upload pictures to this site.

I handed the car over to Euro specialist, moved to a region where no Volvo specialist available, and he did a full industrial flush, upgraded the software and installed the servicing kit. Was like new for about 6 months.

[eVolved]

Thanks for this detailed explanation about the solenoids, much appreciated.

[eVolved]

Originally Posted by VOLVOBOY

Hi.
Apologies...
`02 models are in the range for having issues with the Band D Servo.
This should read "Band B3 Servo."
This is not really related to your issue. It is more a 2nd to 3rd hard upshift problem but can affect the SLU Solenoid .

Just to try and give a bit of an idea as to how the gearbox works....
There are 3 duty or pressure solenoids
1. SLU Solenoid = this operates the engagement and release of the torque converter clutch ,the 2nd clutch (B2) and Reverse clutch (B3).
2.SLT Solenoid = this operates the line pressures.
3. SLS Solenoid = this operates the clutch pressures.
There are 5 Shift Control Solenoids
S1 = operates N to 1st and Reverse.
S2 = operates 2nd to 3rd and 3rd to 4th.
S3 = operates 1st to 2nd , 2nd to 3rd and Reverse.
S4 = operates 3rd to 4th and 4th to 5th.
S5 = operates Reverse.

So you can see that a hard engagement from neutral to drive could be to do with Shift Solenoid S1 , and any or all of the pressure solenoids.

Thanks VOLVOBOY, very much for spending the time on this, very informative and much appreciated.
Cheers.