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B230FD Cranks but won’t start

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Old Jan 25th, 2020, 20:04   #1
Volvo940GL
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Question B230FD Cranks but won’t start

Suddenly my engine stopped without any warning. I lost engine power and had to get towed home. I have changed Rotor, distributor, cables. Plugs. Module for spark. And new crank position sensor. Also have new fuel pump and filter.

The engine gets fuel, spark and air. It won’t start on startfluid. Have checked relays but not for ignition and fuel. Fuses are fine. Fuel pump is working fine. It’ have compression.
It won’t simply start. Only cranks and cannot be towed to start.
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Old Jan 25th, 2020, 21:26   #2
Laird Scooby
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Timing belt slipped?
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Old Jan 26th, 2020, 08:02   #3
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Timing belt slipped?
Timing belt is new so no. I have checked and that’s not the case
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Old Jan 26th, 2020, 09:42   #4
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Hello

You say it has compression. Was this checked with a gauge and if so what readings did you get?

The timing belt is new you say and still intact. But do all the timing marks still line up?

You've changed many components. Were they all brand new or are there any second-hand components used that may be faulty?

You don't mention replacing the ignition coil. Just because a spark can be seen doesn't mean it is strong enough. A weak spark can be overcome with fuel. Starting fluid usually masks a weak spark due to its volatile nature yet not this time!

So you've got spark and fuel but it won't start.

If it's got good compression, spark and fuel, if all timings are correct it should fire at very least on starting fluid.

So I would check;

1. Timing marks. Do they line up? if they are ok does the rotor arm on distributor spin when cranking.Also I've known the Woodruff key on bottom crank pulley to come loose knocking timing out.

2. Lead firing order. If I remember right one of the B230 engines with Bosch distributor at rear of engine has a 4312 firing order not 1342.

3. Compression. Is it to spec? Burnt or stuck valves are a possibility.

4. Coil swap.

5. Hall sensor on distributor. Is the air gap correct. Will also give a poorly timed weak spark.

All the best with it🤔

Last edited by 37 RUBY; Jan 26th, 2020 at 10:06.
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Old Jan 26th, 2020, 11:04   #5
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Originally Posted by Volvo940GL View Post
Timing belt is new so no. I have checked and that’s not the case
Have you checked that TDC as shown by the crank pulley is in fact TDC on #1 cylinder? Also which marks are you using to check the timing marks line up?
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Old Jan 26th, 2020, 11:07   #6
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Originally Posted by 37 RUBY View Post
Hello

You say it has compression. Was this checked with a gauge and if so what readings did you get?

The timing belt is new you say and still intact. But do all the timing marks still line up?

You've changed many components. Were they all brand new or are there any second-hand components used that may be faulty?

You don't mention replacing the ignition coil. Just because a spark can be seen doesn't mean it is strong enough. A weak spark can be overcome with fuel. Starting fluid usually masks a weak spark due to its volatile nature yet not this time!

So you've got spark and fuel but it won't start.

If it's got good compression, spark and fuel, if all timings are correct it should fire at very least on starting fluid.

So I would check;

1. Timing marks. Do they line up? if they are ok does the rotor arm on distributor spin when cranking.Also I've known the Woodruff key on bottom crank pulley to come loose knocking timing out.

2. Lead firing order. If I remember right one of the B230 engines with Bosch distributor at rear of engine has a 4312 firing order not 1342.

3. Compression. Is it to spec? Burnt or stuck valves are a possibility.

4. Coil swap.

5. Hall sensor on distributor. Is the air gap correct. Will also give a poorly timed weak spark.

All the best with it🤔

Hello thanks for your reply
Yes I have checked the timing and rotor. It’s on 1 or 4.
Changed ignition coil and still nothing. So I swapped back to my old coil.
I have checked RSR and ignition module. Yeah Bosch parts I use.
Compression tools shows 11bar
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Old Jan 26th, 2020, 11:10   #7
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Originally Posted by Laird Scooby View Post
Have you checked that TDC as shown by the crank pulley is in fact TDC on #1 cylinder? Also which marks are you using to check the timing marks line up?
that 0 on the plastic
It’s on TDC

And camshaft is marked aswell
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Last edited by Volvo940GL; Jan 26th, 2020 at 11:14. Reason: More information
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Old Jan 26th, 2020, 11:30   #8
Laird Scooby
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that 0 on the plastic
It’s on TDC

And camshaft is marked aswell
That's 20 deg BTDC!!!!! If you follow the shape of the plastic timing cover up past the 10 mark, you'll see the most difficult one to see is actually furthest from the pulley and marked 0. This older version of the timing pointer will give you an idea :



I'm amazed it ran in the first place! Almost certainly your plugs will be fouled so they need to be cleaned while you reset the timing belt how it should be!

Forgot to add this, might be useful as well :

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Old Jan 26th, 2020, 12:03   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Laird Scooby View Post
That's 20 deg BTDC!!!!! If you follow the shape of the plastic timing cover up past the 10 mark, you'll see the most difficult one to see is actually furthest from the pulley and marked 0. This older version of the timing pointer will give you an idea :



I'm amazed it ran in the first place! Almost certainly your plugs will be fouled so they need to be cleaned while you reset the timing belt how it should be!

Forgot to add this, might be useful as well :

sorry if you mistook me. I didn’t use that measurements on the DEG pulley. Only on the marked and crankpulley.
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Old Jan 26th, 2020, 12:14   #10
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sorry if you mistook me. I didn’t use that measurements on the DEG pulley. Only on the marked and crankpulley.
In that case, to avoid confusion, can you set the engine to where the timing notch on the crank pulley is lined up to the mark you used and take another picture please?

If i'm wrong, then my apologies.

If i'm right, you'll have to retime it.
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