Suspension: Front strut seat and top mount

[Rover Saloon]

This post is partly informative (hopefully) and also a question about whether or not to apply any lubrication between the top strut mount and rubber spring seat.

Having got the usual Volvo 'crash, bang wallops' coming from my front suspension (S80 170k 2000) I decided on drastic action and replace all the likely culprits in one hit. Not hugely scientific in terms of 'fair testing' but it seemed that, whilst having everything out, it would be better in the long run.

A few pointers for anyone wanting to do some/all of this.

Bottom ball joint. I found this a real brut to fit whilst the hub assembly was on the car. It is splined and has to go into it's housing absolutely square. I found I couldn't rely on getting it started and then just tightening up the bolts. They are not exactly central and so pull the ball joint to one side as it goes in thus jamming it. It is far easier to take the hub assembly off, hold it in a vice and then gently tap the ball joint in place before putting in the bolts. Remember to loosen the drive shaft bolt before jacking up the car (assuming they haven't fallen out already!) Taking the hub off is very straightforward - just remove the brake caliper and disc then the ABS sensor and backplate. Unbolt the track rod end and the two bolts securing it to the shock.
Also, be careful not to pull on the drive shaft too hard during any of this work - the UV joint has been known to come apart inside its rubber boot with disasterous consequences.

I also replaced the top spring seat (rubber thing) and the top strut mount (metal with three studs that bolt through the body into the engine bay.) The latter fits on top of the former and is splined. It was obvious from the ones that I had removed that both the male and female parts of this splined connection had worn. So I come to the question.

Is it any benefit in applying a lubrication before assembling these two components to reduce the rubbing that must take place between them and so wear them out?

Whilst the strut was out I also fitted a new shock as well.

The only thing I didn't replace was the track rod end. When I had disconnected it it seemed fine despite the 150k. I had been led to believe from previous posts that this is one of the first things to fail.

The result - it's like a new car. All the bangs/knocks have gone despite my route towork rapidly turning into a dirt track thanks to the disintigrating road surface.

One last point. - I got all the bits from PFS and note that some of them are Scan Tech! Having read the post about OEM v pattern, I am wondering for how long it will be 'all quiet on the western front'!!!!

If anyone needs any more info on this job - just ask.