940 clutch bleeding

[TonyS9]

I swapped mine over from a 2nd hand part, didn't have any problems. The circlip should hold the slave into the bell housing.

[barking mat]

A big thank you huskyman, I noticed the slave cylinder was at the end of its travel although I suspected insufficient bleeding. Today I reverse bled the clutch and still nothing, then I chopped a length of threaded bar to approx 10mm longer and thank a god of your choice it went into gear ! Suspect the replacement generic clutch kit not being quite the same? Thanks everyone !

[NorfolkChas]

Hi, posting on this old thread in the hope someone can help as it seems closest to my problem: 96/97 940 estate, 140k, difficulty getting into first, sometimes reverse, very little 'active' travel on the clutch pedal ie it needs to be floored... it doesn't slip, will pull away in 2nd, but gives every impression of being on the way out. Plenty of fluid in the reservoir.
Is there any adjustment along the linkage somewhere to bring this (apparently) still ok clutch into better use?

Chas

[danielm85948]

Originally Posted by Steve940estate

My car was a bit difficult when I did it. Makes sure you don't let the fluid level drop much as it just sucks air in again.
Somethimes just letting the fluid run through will do the job, you could try holding the pedal down fo a bit to see if that encourages the air to come out of the top or even push any remaining air out of the top by squeezing the slave cylinder in a bit.

all of you must check the clutch fork has not worn a hole in it, and you pump up the clutch next open the nipple tell your helper to hold it down then close the nipple and pump the clutch say down and hold so you have to open and close the nipple .

[GreenBrick]

I had good results with one of those eezi-bleed kits that run off the pressure from the spare tyre. After two attempts (not used it before) the clutch was great.

[Ian Fife]

I'm a 940 owner but had similar problems to these clutch problems with my old MG midget - and this might have some bearing on the issues raised, so here goes:

# I replaced clutch, clutch master and clutch slave cylinder on the midget, but re-used what appeared to be the correct pushrod and arm.
# I found that I wasn't getting the correct clutch slave cylinder piston travel
# Then discovered that there were two different pushrod lengths for the midget, so ordered the other one and still couldn't get the correct travel at the clutch end
# eventually made up my own pushrod and adjusted the length by welding/grinding until I got the clutch working properly. All fine now.
Conclusion
problem could have been due to a mismatch of cylinder bore sizes causing the wrong relative movements of master cylinder piston to slave cylinder piston, or just possibly some change in the mechanical actuation.
Either way, things did not move in the same way as they did before and required some careful tinkering to get all working again.

Only way to do this is to have someone operating clutch inside car and someone underneath measuring exactly how much movement is taking place,

IanF

[petercz]

Please does anyone know size of the bleed screw in the clutch slave cylinder?