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What to warm up manually to switch to gas quicker

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Old Nov 28th, 2010, 10:45   #11
John_C
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Honestly it's just not worth worrying about, cars use more fuel when it's very cold and take longer to warm up, simple as that. Your only realistic options to genuinely cut down the warmup time are an engine pre-heater or keeping the car in a heated garage overnight both of which will cost way, way more than just letting the engine do it's thing.
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Old Nov 28th, 2010, 18:16   #12
capt jack
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Thinking about it, there is one obvious, 100% guaranteed way of saving petrol..............just leave the car at home and walk!

This afternoon my teenage daughter and I got wrapped up in winter togs and boots, and instead of driving to the local supermarket to get some glue for her homework project, we walked.

And it was great!

It was snowing heavily, and we easily outpaced the slow queue of traffic along the road as we walked.

Also we talked - really talked. When's the last time you had a conversation with a teenager that was more than monosyllabic shrugs? We got some fresh air, and the cup of coffee when we got home was the best I'd tasted in ages!

Cheers

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Old Nov 28th, 2010, 21:37   #13
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A engine pre heater is the only realy way in your situation to get the engine to run on LPG from start. With older type mixer systems on classic engines it is possible to start from cold. With modern injection systems it is also possible to start on LPG with some but not all and many engines managment systems will get thrown by running from cold on LPG. The distributor systems are quite fussy and best only used on a warm engine

The big advantage of the pre heater is reduced engine wear. Most engine wear occours during cold running.
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Old Nov 29th, 2010, 09:56   #14
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Default I've just noticed this part of the forum

As an LPG owner I'm kicking myself for not seeing this LPG section earlier.

Anyway, here I am, proud owner of a self-converted 340 which works well on LPG.

I thought I'd make the observation that our system starts well from cold, even freezing cold. Don't ask me how, our settings are not rich, all we have to do is give it a shot of gas (9 seconds), full choke (not that it makes any difference) then it roars into life. Within half a mile it is half choke, and a full mile it is at temperature.

We keep the petrol for special occasions. (Like valve lube additives etc.)

I have a complete install diary inc. photos if anyone is interested.
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Old Nov 29th, 2010, 16:50   #15
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Joe, you seem to be starting on a mixture of gas and petrol?
You give it a shot of gas, then full choke, then get the choke in after a mile.
I'm puzzled.
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Old Nov 30th, 2010, 09:09   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Clifford Pope View Post
Joe, you seem to be starting on a mixture of gas and petrol?
You give it a shot of gas, then full choke, then get the choke in after a mile.
I'm puzzled.
No, I'll clarify. We have a changeover switch with a function that, set to gas, when you turn on the ignition, gas is admitted into the inlet manifold for a set period of time (9 seconds in our case.)
It is necessary to pull out the choke to allow full gas to flow through the carb. With the choke fully out, after usually one shot of gas, the car starts, even though the vapouriser is stone cold.

After that, the vapouriser heats quickly, (being heated by the primary cooling circuit) then normal operation takes over. Choke in within 1 mile.

At no time do we need petrol to get it started, although with nighttime temperatures as they are I'll be ready to try it if the gas does let me down.

Hope this is clearer.
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Old Jan 3rd, 2011, 02:36   #17
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also youll find that you can gas start most multipoint lpg kits by holding the lpg switch on as you switch the ignition on and crank it.
I found this out the other day when i was telling someone about the time 2 years ago when i ran out of petrol in deep snow and had to walkk 3 miles for petrol!!!!
Much to this guys joy he told me all about it and was laughing
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Old Jan 3rd, 2011, 08:39   #18
Clifford Pope
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It is said that most engine wear takes place in the first 2 miles when it is cold and petrol is washing the oil off the cylinder bores. Also the combustion products from the rich poorly-burnt mixture contaminate the oil, contributing to corrosion and wear.

LPG is supposed to be much cleaner running, but I don't see how it can achieve this if the engine is in fact running on petrol for those critical first few miles.
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Old Jan 3rd, 2011, 19:31   #19
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My 960 3.0 24v switches to LPG as soon as I get the engine over 2500RPM regardless of running and ambient temperatures. The system is a standard single point LPG system as well.
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Old Jan 19th, 2011, 22:43   #20
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My 1986 Audi 100 with a carb runs on gas from cold, even during the really cold last few months, it does have a mixer ring though.
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