2.4 - 140 to 170 remap

[stuart bowes]

Originally Posted by TDIvolvo

.. I'd leave the girl alone.

you're probably right.. the mileage is pretty low to be fair (just shy of 56k) but the age does make me wonder if it would cope with all the messing around.

if it ain't broke, and all that

[T5R92011]

Personally I'd say go for it.

The engine is just gagged at the top end by software. That is all. These are very robust vehicles compared to most things out there.

Another interesting example of Volvo doing this is in the most recent V40 hatchback. Volvo have pegged back their 2.0-litre turbo petrol engine to put out a pathetic 122bhp in T2 trim... whereas T3 has 150bhp, T4 has 190bhp and T5 has 240bhp. Same engine, just software limited.

[stuart bowes]

Ok thanks.. so that's 1 vote either way..

I'll give it some thought while I'm going through the list of maintenance bits suggested above

[BlueRubber]

I have the 170bhp version of your car and I would say go for it unless the engine or gearbox is in poor mechanical condition.

On a side note make sure your gearbox oil has been serviced, if not change it now ( don't flush it though ).

[stuart bowes]

Yeah that job is definitely on my radar, I've got a few other minor bits to do first

the gearbox is sometimes bit lumpy between gears and the occasional (rare) sudden lurch or random high rev like it's forgotten where the gears are .. but 95% of time it behaves itself

in terms of what I could do myself first.. from what I can tell, change fluid, replace the solenoids and reset the programming and that might sort out? does that sound about right

how much of a pain are the solenoids, is that a gearbox out job

[BlueRubber]

Originally Posted by stuart bowes

Yeah that job is definitely on my radar, I've got a few other minor bits to do first

the gearbox is sometimes bit lumpy between gears and the occasional (rare) sudden lurch or random high rev like it's forgotten where the gears are .. but 95% of time it behaves itself

in terms of what I could do myself first.. from what I can tell, change fluid, replace the solenoids and reset the programming and that might sort out? does that sound about right

how much of a pain are the solenoids, is that a gearbox out job

If the gearbox is playing up already you should service it ASAP, as every time it slips it's damaging the gearbox:
Don't do the remap until the gearbox is working 100% correctly.

For now I would drain the gearbox sump and refill with this oil:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MANNOL-8L...72.m2749.l2649
"MANNOL 8L ATF Multivehicle Automatic Transmission Fluid JWS 3309 "
If you have the cash to splash buy the OEM oil.

Also put some of this in there, it will make a big difference, it did in my car and others:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Lube-Gard...72.m2749.l2649
"Lube Gard - SYNTHETIC ATF AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION FLUID PROTECTANT - 60902 - 10oz"

Also it is critical to make sure the gearbox oil level is correct, following the Volvo procedure for this:

Oil level, checking
Warning! Avoid skin contact with the transmission fluid.
Note! Use only transmission oil, Volvo P/N 116 1540-8 (1 liter container), 116 1640-6 (4 liter container).
Conditions
The difference between the MAX and MIN volumes is 0.2 liters. Check the oil temperature in the transmission.
At room temperature (+20 °C) the oil level is close to the MIN mark on the "cold area".
At room temperature (+20 °C) and low oil level the oil barely reaches the dipstick.
The "cold range" (+40 °C) is reached after approximately 15 minutes idling in the workshop, while the "hot range" (+80 °C) is reached after approximately 30 minutes highway driving at an air temperature above +15 °C.
Note! Carry out the check at an oil temperature of +80 °C. Go to car communication function group 4. Select the digital display parameter. Select the parameter for the transmission oil temperature.
Preparing to check the oil level
Park the car on a level surface.
Apply the parking brake.
Apply the foot brake.
Let the engine idle.
Move the gear selector lever to position P.
Move the gear selector through all positions. Wait in each position for approximately 3 seconds
Move gear selector to position P and wait approximately 2 minutes before checking the oil level.
The dipstick must be pushed down as far as possible into the dipstick tube.
Caution! Wipe the dipstick with a nylon cloth or similar. Do not use a cloth which may leave fluff or threads.

I thought I would have to change solenoids etc but just doing the above fixed my issues.
Repeat the above oil changes every 500 > 1000 miles and drive as much as you can in the city rather than motorway so the gearbox adapts better.

If you have VIDA ( if not buy it ) then reset the gearbox oil change counter.

Here is useful info in case you need to do more work in it.:
https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/fo...hp?f=9&t=81188

[stuart bowes]

ah brilliant thanks for that I'll have a good read through that and make plans for asap

I read somewhere that the gearbox can adjust shift timings for engine temperatures, i.e. hanging it out longer to warm up..

I have recently changed both ext temp sensors, and today I changed the stat because that was stuck open.. is that relevant, possibly worth leaving it to see if that makes any difference?

[BlueRubber]

Originally Posted by stuart bowes

I read somewhere that the gearbox can adjust shift timings for engine temperatures, i.e. hanging it out longer to warm up..

I have recently changed both ext temp sensors, and today I changed the stat because that was stuck open.. is that relevant, possibly worth leaving it to see if that makes any difference?

It might affect your gearbox, but I doubt it would cause problems like your gearbox flaring.

I would strongly recommend doing a gearbox drain and fill asap and adding Lube gard.
Btw I use a large measuring jug (5L) to drain the old oil into, then it's easy to measure how much to re-fill it with.

[stuart bowes]

thanks again what would be a sensible ratio of lube-guard to trans fluid (or percentage if you prefer)

[reggit]

The way that’s recommended on here is to drop and refill the gearbox 3 times in quick succession, just a few hundred miles between changes. That refreshes 95%ish of the oil. If you wanted to add this lubeguard, I’d do it at the final change.
I’ve never used anything other than gearbox fluid in my cars so can’t comment on effectiveness of anything else. Buy yourself a 10l tub of mannol 3309 fluid from eBay and you’ll have enough for 3 changes and a litre left.