Steering: 140: Steeringbox adjustment

[Dylan144GT]

Hi guys

How does one adjust the steering box to tighten it up? Is it the big flat head screw on the top of the box?

Dylan

[DaveTrees]

Yep.

First, make sure the front wheels are pointing exactly straight ahead (this is really important ! Measure it .... don't just do it by eye ! If they are off-centre, the steering will end up really bad .. )

Next, back off the locknut surrounding the adjusting screw.

Adjust the screw ... but not too tight .... you want to take out the slop, but end up with just a "noticeable resistance" as the steering movement goes either side of straight ahead position.

When done, tighten the locknut.

I found it took me a couple of attempts to get the "feel" right. (You may well find though that you will never get it ideal, because of wear in the steering box).

Make sure that all your front end bushes & balljoints are in good condition first though ... otherwise you are wasting your time !!

[Dylan144GT]

Thanks Dave. Much appreciated!

How do I know whether my bushes and ball joints are good though? I do have a bit of pull toward the left when driving and the alignment guys say its they can't do the alignment until the tierod ends have been replaced. Does this sound viable? From my personal inspection most of the play seems to be coming from the steering columb where the impact bolts are. The one rubber coupling is very perished and has resulted in a rather large gap. I have tried to sort this out but I need a replcement kit to sort it out properly.

Also, when turning sharply and driving slowly, like parking or pulling out of a small street, the steering klanks. Is this as a result of a steering bush on the columb gone or something else? Its definately in the streering though. this doesn't happen when one is on your way and turing becomes gradual movements.

Dylan

[Derek UK]

There's not much point in adjusting your steering box until you know that all of the ball joints/tie rods/idler bush etc are good. Your alignment shop is probably not lying to you and you've already found that the rubber steering joint is shot. This combination of wear may well mean the car isn't very safe to drive but that's your decision. The box adjustment is best left until you've sorted out the other problems. If you can get the front end off the ground with axle stands under each of the lower A arms you'll be able to check all of the joints. Don't forget the lower/outer ball joint on each side. They can be difficult to check but can have a lot of play. When all of the jobs are done, get it back on the stands and adjust the box to give the minimum amount of play at the wheel without any increase in stiffness. Tightening and loosening will give you a feel for it. Expect to have about 1 1/2" play each side of centre. Don't try and get rid of this using the adjustment screw.
Work safe!

[DaveTrees]

What Derek said ! The steering box is very much a fine adjustment thing. (Also, check that it is full of fluid - I use diff oil - they will "clank" if half empty)

Depending how well it has been maintained, if it were me I would renew all the tierod ends, balljoints & control arm bushes (both upper & lower) so you know you have a good starting point for the wheel alignment. Once all this stuff is new, you will be amazed at the transformation !

They are not overly expensive parts either .... just don't make the mistake of using "Scantech" aftermarket bushes ... they are rubbish. Go genuine Volvo or some other reputable brand.

[carnut1100]

That's not the first time I have heard Scantech bushes are crap.
I am going with a mixture of poly and OEM rubber on both the 164E and the 245.

[DaveTrees]

Originally Posted by carnut1100

That's not the first time I have heard Scantech bushes are crap.
I am going with a mixture of poly and OEM rubber on both the 164E and the 245.

For us Aussies, Mackay is pretty good.

Also, Imparts stock rubber LCA bushes which aren't bad price wise .... you could go through 3 sets for the price of a set of SuperPro poly ones !