Modifying the 940

[360beast]

Right I have searched and searched and I keep getting conflicting information so I thought I would start a new thread as people have done the mods more often now so hopefully the correct answers will be readily available now.

My goal is 250-300hp in my daily 1997 LPT 940, so far I have almost finished stage 0 (just need new HT leads) and a manual boost controller set at 8psi.

Right the first hurdle, fuel cut (often called boost cut) is it true a 3" maf off a 960 will stop this? If so how and does it make the car run too rich/lean?

I have found chips from boostinbilly off eBay which remove fuel cut and raise the rev limit to 6700rpm but removes the ECU immobiliser which I'm not too keen on.

I will be fitting a Garrett t3 on a 90+ manifold and a 3" straight through exhaust which should see me to the 250hp mark with other supporting mods correct?

The camshaft, as you will all know the car falls flat on its face about 4.5-5k rpm. I love the low down torque but want it to pull a bit longer, will an A cam be fine for this?

Will any head porting be needed for 250hp?

Any other tips or advice please feel free to say.

Thanks in advance

[Selby]

I used those eBay chips without any issue - the 3 inch maf won’t stop the boost cut.

You’ll need to upgrade the clutch to run 250bhp unfortunately. I did the 850r clutch and TTV single mass from classic swede.

[Laird Scooby]

Just found this thread and it confirmed what i was thinking about the cam Luke - you want the V or VX cam :

http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=267762

As for porting, a light clean-up just to remove seriously rough edges, don't go too mad!
Sometimes less is more in real terms, granted polsihing the bejesus out of the ports might get you an extra 10cfm but at what cost? You lose the slight disruption left by a matt finish which aids swirl which in turn aids mixing of the inlet charge resulting in more efficient and therefore more powerful combustion.

While you've got the head off, do a decoke and lap the valves in, also clean the stems and back of the heads of them. If you have a wire wheel in a bench grinder use that but put the valve in your drill and get it spinning while you do it, makes life quicker, easier and a better finish.

I'm always wary of the cheap "chips" that only cost a couple of quid yet claim to increase power and/or economy. Most work by arbitrarily increasing the resistance of temperature sensors for the coolant, intake air etc to fool the ECU into thinking the engine and intake air is cooler than it is. Usually this just results in increased fuel consumption with little or no gain in power (and definitely not economy!) in the real world.

A bigger intercooler would be helpful as cold air is more dense, reduces detonation/pinking and more dense air means more power.

[mhuk]

Feel free to check out my car's thread.

https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=288804

[baggy798]

Fresh B230FK with H-beam rods and O-ringed block (for reliability).
19t turbo @ 19 psi
Viking chip
Adjustable FPR
Adjustable wastegate actuator or MBC
Bosch green giant injectors 0280155968
JT tuning 3" exhaust
3" ebay intercooler
M90, Sachs -712 pressure plate
Stock cam
Stock valves

306bhp/425nm

One of the easiest ways of doing it.

(Plus a wideband or dyno time, otherwise you're flying blind.)

[Pete940]

^Stock cam

It's the tiny turbo that restricts the engine at high revs, not so much the cam.

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by Pete940

^Stock cam

It's the tiny turbo that restricts the engine at high revs, not so much the cam.

The V cam has higher lift and longer duration so will improve top end performance as well. The B200E/F uses the V cam as standard so should be available from most placs secondhand.

Stock cam appears to be the A cam on the B230FK/T and the V lifts about 3mm higher and 11 degrees longer at least.

[360beast]

Thanks for all of the replies.

I was thinking of going for the ttv flywheel and 850R clutch straight away as when I fit my m90 I don't want to put new clutch etc to have to pull it out and upgrade again.

I think from what's being said then I might just leave the camshaft/head well alone.

Just to out you at ease Dave the chip isn't an el cheapo Chinese special thing it's an actual chip that has apparently been wrote correctly. However can anyone remember the name of a member on here who wrote chips something like mg7setup? I saw video of his on you tube and was blown away with how responsive it was and wanted to have a chat with him about his chips.

Is the intercooler on a 940 a limiting factor? It seems pretty big to me.

What is an O-ri bed block? Never heard of it, also which FPR did you go for Baggy?

I was thinking of using the A cam from my B230ET as I will be fitting the non slotted A cam from the original B200E and converting it to a block mounted dizzy to fit my 360.

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by 360beast

Just to out you at ease Dave the chip isn't an el cheapo Chinese special thing it's an actual chip that has apparently been wrote correctly. However can anyone remember the name of a member on here who wrote chips something like mg7setup? I saw video of his on you tube and was blown away with how responsive it was and wanted to have a chat with him about his chips.

Is the intercooler on a 940 a limiting factor? It seems pretty big to me.

What is an O-ri bed block? Never heard of it, also which FPR did you go for Baggy?

I was thinking of using the A cam from my B230ET as I will be fitting the non slotted A cam from the original B200E and converting it to a block mounted dizzy to fit my 360.

Best wait for the chip until you've done the other mods Luke, get it set up on a rolling road and get the chip custom tuned at the time.

Not sure on the size of the intercooler, but usually the bigger the better, the more cool air you have available the better, especially on a turbo.

This is an O-Ringed block Luke :

https://www.enginelabs.com/news/vide...-wire-install/

In short, machining grooves in the head or block for a metal O-ring.

As for the cam, i doubt it's an A cam, look at it the other way up and you'll probably find it's a V cam. Have a look at Pg16 of this :

http://www.myvolvolibrary.info/Tech_...DataPocket.pdf

No A cams listed, B200E/F have the V cam and look at the lift and duration compared to the standard T cam, about 1.5mm more (i said earlier 3mm more, my mistake, i looked accidentally at the B2x4 cam) and opens about 7 degrees earlier so that will shift the natural power band further up the rev range.

I know you're aiming for 250-300bhp and it's certainly achievable but it might be a lot cheaper to aim for 200-250bhp - a lot cheaper as in no need for a second mortgage.

If you go that route for now, you can keep the 300bhp idea on the back burner, get another engine and build it up as and when bits come up for sale cheap or you have the spare funds to do things like getting the block/head O-ringed, build it up over time and then have it dyno'd on an engine stand, mapped etc then do the engine swap over a weekend. Might also be kinder on your insurance premium to wait until they accept seriously big power mods without asking for limbs and kidneys for the insurance premium!

[baggy798]

O-ringing the block seems a bit excessive for ~300bhp. Skip it! Comp test to check health of engine. If the old headgasket blows, throw an Elring HG on there and carry on.

I think 'boostinbilly' on ebay that sells the chips was '7mgtesup' on here.

There was also 'smithy' that said he ran 300 on stock chips.