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Guide: How to change/adjust timing belt

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Old Jan 15th, 2016, 22:02   #11
ITSv40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tommy t4 View Post
There is an even easier way if you not confident in changing the belt and getting the timing right, if you cut the timing belt along its length in half (not width) as you crank the engine over on the crank pulley, so your left with half the belt on the pulleys simple push the new belt half on so it's touching the half of the old belt on all the pulleys, then carefully cut old belt of along its width, and then push and slide the new belt fully on........
No timing to do as it has stayed in time perfectly and literally half the time
That is a neat little trick I have never come across before or even considered.

Provided you know the engine is timed correctly in the first place, it could save a lot of hassle as modern engines are getting more complex to time.

Two quick questions:

How easy is the belt to cut, I imagine it is quite tough material.

Presumably you would need to slacken the adjuster slightly, to remove the belt tension, but not enough to allow the belt to slip on any of the teeth and then re-tension the new belt once completely on the pulleys.
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Old Jan 16th, 2016, 19:40   #12
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No really easy to cut with a sharp Stanley blade, only slightly slacken the tensioner when you have he new belt almost on. Make sure thats the last part of the belt you feed on is the tensioner, only needs slight release on the tensioner. Where the belt is under tension in the first place it's easy to cut, make sure that's the bit you take the time with as if it snaps, well you'll need to time it.

I'll do my can belt in my t4 and show you when the time comes.
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Old Jan 17th, 2016, 13:43   #13
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I saw this done on an episode of Wheeler Dealers some time back on a Nissan Skyline and thought it was a brilliant time saver.
The problem is that you should really replace the tensioner and water pump for piece of mind, can they be replaced doing it this way?
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Old Jan 17th, 2016, 15:24   #14
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I saw this done on an episode of Wheeler Dealers some time back on a Nissan Skyline and thought it was a brilliant time saver.
The problem is that you should really replace the tensioner and water pump for piece of mind, can they be replaced doing it this way?
Personally, I would not change an original water pump, unless there was something obviously wrong with it. Most of the Volvos I have had, have done well over 100,000mls and have not had to change a pump. My 360 GLT -270,000mls -and V40 370,000mls were still on the original pumps with no problems. If I do ever need to change a pump it will genuine Volvo not pattern.

The tensioner could be replaced once the new belt is on and before the tensioner is tensioned to the correct spec. Personally I will still change belts by the book, but if it enables someone to successfully change a belt without loosing the timing all well and good.
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Old Jan 17th, 2016, 15:54   #15
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I never saw that episode, would be even easier on an RB engine as they are mounted laterally and cam pulleys are at the front, swop the belts first before you change tensioner.
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Old Mar 22nd, 2017, 19:24   #16
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Quote:
Explanation: Those two red lines represents how much I can move camshaft pulley till it stops(until it hits piston heads), its actually 1cm on each side, margin of error is about 0.5cm
From one red line to another is 2cm.

In my case that carrot colour is the best position for my timing, because engine doesn't make that metallic sound from the first video.

You might need to find you own best configuration for this.
Why your carrot colour marking does not match with the marking on the pulley?
How did you wear the timing belt with white mark to carrot mark? How is this possible?)

I tried to find better configuration, but immediately I feel it hits piston heads.
In my case timing mark on the camshaft pulley is visible in the centre of cover and white mark on the belt match with it.
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Last edited by YMQ29evEoj; Mar 22nd, 2017 at 19:29.
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Old Mar 27th, 2017, 23:37   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tommy t4 View Post
There is an even easier way if you not confident in changing the belt and getting the timing right, if you cut the timing belt along its length in half (not width) as you crank the engine over on the crank pulley, so your left with half the belt on the pulleys simple push the new belt half on so it's touching the half of the old belt on all the pulleys, then carefully cut old belt of along its width, and then push and slide the new belt fully on........
No timing to do as it has stayed in time perfectly and literally half the time
That is an absolutely amazing idea, definitely doing that, especially as 2 colleagues cars at work have both broken their belts in the last 2 weeks, luckily they were both GM diesels and suffered nothing more than broken rockers (designed to snap) I'm still taking it as an omen.
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Old Jul 19th, 2019, 13:29   #18
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Hello. This is great. can you tell me exactly how to slacken the tensioner and retighten it? Would be really helpful. Cheers. Frank.
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Old Jul 19th, 2019, 13:32   #19
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This is great. Can you tell me exactly what to do to slacken and tighten the tensioner? Many thanks.
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