240 General: New (to me) 1980 Volvo 244

[Othen]

Originally Posted by Laird Scooby

That's certainly a possibility Alan, might be more cost effective to invest in a brake pipe flaring kit and make your own swages on the pipe though - one less join on each pipe that way so one less chance of a leak.

Alternatively buy two of these female 1/4"BSP x 10mm hose barbs and two of these 8mm compression to male 1/4"BSP fittings.

Cut your steel lines near the radiator, ensuring you know which is flow and which is return (if in doubt, temporarily fit some 8mm rubber hose on each and feed each into a bucket, start the engine and let it run a few seconds then switch off - the bucket with ATF in is the flow) so you can feed the flow into the top of the ATF cooler.

Fit the compression fittings and hose barbs, fit your 10mm bore hoses and ATF cooler, top up the box, run the engine to check for leaks and check/top up the level and when it's all good, pack everything away and relax!

Dave you are a genius - those two couplings were exactly what I was thinking of. I can cut the lines close to the radiator neatly with a plumbers' pipe cutter, clean up with some fine emery paper and fit the compression joint, then screw on the barb for the 10mm pipe in the kit to fit on. That will probably save me £80 in having two bespoke junctions made. Well done indeed.

Surely the feed (hot pipe will be the one going into the top of the Volvo radiator - and the return pipe will be the lower one?

I feel confident this project will work now, I'll get on with ordering the bits and get the work done in the next couple of weeks.

Many thanks,

Alan

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by Othen

Surely the feed (hot pipe will be the one going into the top of the Volvo radiator - and the return pipe will be the lower one?

I feel confident this project will work now, I'll get on with ordering the bits and get the work done in the next couple of weeks.

Many thanks,

Alan

Thanks Alan, i spent most of my working life finding solutions like that, usually with budgetary constraints so it was nice to find something with less restrictions on price, more on solid engineering integrity.

As for the two pipes, i prefer my method (i know, i know, i'm biased! ) of sorting out which is which. I've tried the infra-red laser-guided thermometer method on them in the past, not always conclusively. The extension hoses and buckets is foolproof, both may dribble a little when first disconnected but if you keep the pipes high and run the extension hoses down, there will be a clear "winner" on which the flow is.

The thing is, you never know if someone has meddled with them in the past, a favourite is heater hoses where they connect to the matrix, i've had a number of cars with poor, ineffectual heaters that despite everything else being ok with the car, would only become lukewarm at idle but go stone cold as soon as you were moving.
Some muppet had previously swapped the hoses round!

First time i noticed it was when i was 17 on a Mk3 Cortina, i had another engine fitted (where i lived at the time i couldn't have done it) and the heater hoses got swapped. I naturally assumed everything had been done correctly on the swap but couldn't figure out why the autochoke (water-heated) was staying on when it previously hadn't and why the heater was blowing so cold.
On a hunch i swapped the hoses on the matrix and the next morning was lovely and warm on the way to work and the auto-choke went off by the time i reached the first crossroads almost exactly a mile from home.
Back then infra-red thermometers were the preserve of the military and cost many multiples of my salary as an apprentice and didn't even have one at work to borrow although they did later get one - it was kept under lock and key in the stores and could only be drawn with a note signed by the departmental manager or his deputy if he was unavailable. Still no hope of borrowing it!

With all that in mind, plus a few other similar stories i could recite on a variety of machinery means i would now recommend the confirmation from an empty bucket being the return and a part-filled one after idling the engine for a few seconds being the flow.

[Othen]

Originally Posted by Laird Scooby

Thanks Alan, i spent most of my working life finding solutions like that, usually with budgetary constraints so it was nice to find something with less restrictions on price, more on solid engineering integrity.

As for the two pipes, i prefer my method (i know, i know, i'm biased! ) of sorting out which is which. I've tried the infra-red laser-guided thermometer method on them in the past, not always conclusively. The extension hoses and buckets is foolproof, both may dribble a little when first disconnected but if you keep the pipes high and run the extension hoses down, there will be a clear "winner" on which the flow is.

The thing is, you never know if someone has meddled with them in the past, a favourite is heater hoses where they connect to the matrix, i've had a number of cars with poor, ineffectual heaters that despite everything else being ok with the car, would only become lukewarm at idle but go stone cold as soon as you were moving.
Some muppet had previously swapped the hoses round!

First time i noticed it was when i was 17 on a Mk3 Cortina, i had another engine fitted (where i lived at the time i couldn't have done it) and the heater hoses got swapped. I naturally assumed everything had been done correctly on the swap but couldn't figure out why the autochoke (water-heated) was staying on when it previously hadn't and why the heater was blowing so cold.
On a hunch i swapped the hoses on the matrix and the next morning was lovely and warm on the way to work and the auto-choke went off by the time i reached the first crossroads almost exactly a mile from home.
Back then infra-red thermometers were the preserve of the military and cost many multiples of my salary as an apprentice and didn't even have one at work to borrow although they did later get one - it was kept under lock and key in the stores and could only be drawn with a note signed by the departmental manager or his deputy if he was unavailable. Still no hope of borrowing it!

With all that in mind, plus a few other similar stories i could recite on a variety of machinery means i would now recommend the confirmation from an empty bucket being the return and a part-filled one after idling the engine for a few seconds being the flow.

Many thanks Dave,

Good engineering advice as always.

Stay safe,

Alan

[Stephen Edwin]

Originally Posted by Stephen Edwin

Worth considering would be:

Buy a spare set of the aforementioned pipes. Various forum members, and or breakers, could supply.

Take pipes and the proposed new cooler to your chosen hydraulic pipe engineers. Outline the task and agree a good way forward.

Meanwhile, apply your chosen penetrant to the unions daily to ease removal.

On re-assembly consider e.g. ceramic grease to avoid dissimilar metals corrosion.

At the end of the job you still have a st of pipes in case you or a subsequent owner of the punt, needs to re-instate.


Comrade Stephen Edwin



.

All of the above is directly relevant. Other opinions are available.


Various methods of connecting are being discussed. An hydraulics engineer might recommend a method that is better or, ahem, even cheaper. Explore options. Time spent on reconnaissance.

Applying penetrant now, and re-assembly with e.g. ceramic grease is just good sense.

One doubts if it would be desirable to re-instate the original set up. But. Why deny that opportunity for the future. And for now one would have the spare pipes to assess &c. without disturbing the original pipes. Again. Good sense.

There's more than one way to skin a rabbit .... LOL


Comrade Stephen Edwin



.

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by Stephen Edwin

All of the above is directly relevant. Other opinions are available.


Various methods of connecting are being discussed. An hydraulics engineer might recommend a method that is better or, ahem, even cheaper. Explore options. Time spent on reconnaissance.

Applying penetrant now, and re-assembly with e.g. ceramic grease is just good sense.

One doubts if it would be desirable to re-instate the original set up. But. Why deny that opportunity for the future. And for now one would have the spare pipes to assess &c. without disturbing the original pipes. Again. Good sense.

There's more than one way to skin a rabbit .... LOL


Comrade Stephen Edwin



.

NONE of it is relevant. We're talking about replacing an item that has union connections with one that doesn't, therefore there is no relevance. I've done it on several different cars and advised many others how to do it on theirs, never have the original design of cooler pipes been reused except on the gearbox end of some models. Many others just use a simple 10mm bore rubber hose.

As i invited you to do earlier, click the link on the replacement cooler then go and find the differences between that and the OE cooler - you will then see for yourself the lack of relevance.

[Stephen Edwin]

David's opinion as to relevance is one view and I defend his right to that opinion.

Comrade Stephen Edwin


.

[Othen]

Originally Posted by Laird Scooby

You've answered your own query with the Autodata extract Alan. It would bear checking out as a minimum. To paraphrase Autodata, get the engine up to operating temperature, remove the vacuum advance from the distributor and plug it, turn the slow running screw all the way in (count the turns in just in case) then turn it 4 complete turns out and start the engine. This should give an idle speed between 10-1200rpm.

If so, unplug the vac line and reconnect it to the dizzy then turn the slow running screw back in to achieve the 900rpm idle speed.

If not, bend the tab to bring the idle speed to within 10-1200rpm (i'd aim for the mid-point of 1100rpm) and then follow the step above.

You're probably wondering why i'm viewing this as important. Many moons ago i ran a Mk1 Cavalier 2.0 which had a Varajet-II carb. This had a similar system of setting the throttle butterfly to a specific point and then adjusting the idle speed by means of the idle air bypass/slow-running screw.
On that carb, the slow-running screw had to be turned all the way in then with the distributor vacuum hose disconnected from the carb, a water manometer connected onto the vacuum advance stub on the carb and the idle speed adjusted to 8" of water vacuum in the water manometer. This was the mid-point of the acceptable range, i don't recall the entire range now but it made a huge difference to how the car ran overall including performance, economy and lack of flat spots.
Looking at the information on the Pierburg carb, not just above but also what limited information i found online, i would conclude there is a similar arrangement on yours - obviously without the need for a water manometer to set it correctly and with a tab to bend instead of a screw to adjust the idle speed.

It may be after checking it you conclude the idle speed is correct with the slow-running/air idle bypass screw turned just 1/2 turn out but until then i would say it is suspect, given all the previous misguided fiddling that seems to have happened over the years. Don't forget the tab is designed to be bent a few times at least so i wouldn't worry about breaking it.

Up to you of course but for peace of mind, i'd check it out.

I found a tool with which I can bend the butterfly valve stop tab without disassembling the mechanism yesterday Dave (actually an old adjustable spanner that coincidentally just slides into the gap). I'll see if I can get finish off setting up the Pierburg carbuterror properly today - the final piece of the jigsaw?

Stay safe,

Alan

[Othen]

I happened upon this document whilst surfing, it is a .PDF copy on the Volvo repair and maintenance manuals for carburettors fitted to 240 and 260 cars from 1975-1984:

https://www.unpodicose.it/index.php/...d-fuel-systems

It is a pretty useful book (to me), the Pierburg DVG 175 CDUS is covered in some details on pp60-66.

Stay safe,

Alan

[Laird Scooby]

It's amazing what you can use adjustable spanners for Alan! Useful find with that Volvo Green Book too, i hope you've saved yourself a copy?

Will be interesting to see if it is the final piece of the jigsaw!

[Othen]

Whilst surfing I came across this Volvo repair and maintenance manual for BW55/AW55/AW70/AW71 automatic transmissions:

https://1drv.ms/b/s!Ask6E_1jz4xI_SvC...w6DiV?e=YBAX9o

This link may be time limited (I'm not sure, it is the first time I've tried hosting from One-drive).

Stay safe.

Alan