Hi all new to the forum with a 2.5t issue

[Daz86]

Originally Posted by VOLVOBOY

Hi.
It`s worth checking the VVT Solenoid or Solenoids. It`ll only cost the gasket.
On high mileage / lousy oil change history engines these can be gummed up
and sticky. ( like the linear solenoids in the gearbox).
With the solenoid remove you can put 12V across it and see inside if the pintle is moving on a full stroke.

Good idea but I’ve already tried that lol. The inlet solenoid was partly blocked with gasket sealant didn’t make any difference tbh need to get me hands on or make a cam locking tool . I’m more looking to the exhaust vvt hub being miles of or a tooth out on the timing . When i 1st got the car the inlet cam sensor appiture had a prong missing so had to source a new one . If they can be so rough with that part and have the exhaust vvt hub miles out god Now’s about the timing

[VOLVOBOY]

Hi.

The first step is to prove that the VVT Solenoid is in good order. You say that it is , so we can discount that.
The second is to grip the VVT pulley and see if there is any end-float. If there is it is a good indicator of a failing part.

[Daz86]

Mines a twin vvt engine . The exhaust vvt hub is retarded and the inlet is advanced . The car does go quite well but it’s definitely not right . Is it possible to check end float with the cambelt still fitted

[Daz86]

I’m unable to load a pic of the vvt hubs of my phone

[VOLVOBOY]

Hi.
No, you really need to have the timing belt off to be sure.
So long as you align the crankshaft mark and then make some sort of mark for the camshafts , either the ones on the timing cover or on the engine casing it doesn`t matter. Do this before removing the belt. This will give you a default position to come back to. Make a second set of marks from the VVTs to the casing when the belt is off. This will be the VVT default position.

[VOLVOBOY]

Hi.
Sorry. I need to explain the previous post better.
When the belt is off you will see that the VVT hubs have a bit of free rotation without moving the camshafts.
Rotate the hub anti-clockwise until it stops . Rotate the hub clockwise until it stops. The timing mark on the sprocket should align with the mark on the timing cover/engine case. If this checks out rotate the hub anti-clockwise and make the second mark.
Fit the camshaft locking tool . The camshafts should not move if everything was timed right to begin with. If the cams do move then the VVTs need to be re-positioned so that they rotate between the two marks.
Slacken the hub centre bolt , not the 3 bolts in slotted holes to do this.

[Daz86]

Thanks Volvoboy much appreciated for your detailed how to .

I’ve just done a 130 mile today in the Volvo and it rally feels like it’s running out of fuel or boost at the higher gears and rpm it’s only boosting 0.5bar . I’m used to tuning older diesels and it feels a lot like a over boost lean feeling

[VOLVOBOY]

Hi.
If you hadn`t mentioned checking the VVT timing in your first post I would have said check the TCV and associated piping to the turbo. It`s a common issue on a petrol turbo. The waste-gate actuator needs to hold vacuum. Also check that the waste-gate can move `cos they can stick.
The TCV is mounted on the side of the air-box on my car. I think yours is the same.
Also check the main hose from air-box to turbo to see if it`s squishy. These are known to go soft with age. At high engine demand they collapse and starve the turbo.

[Daz86]

You might be onto something Volvoboy with the TCV . Disconnected it at the wiring connection and the car performed exactly the same . Still held 0.5 bar boost as usual . Only difference is I’ve now got the Eml light on I’ll reset it tomorrow no biggy . shame it’s a 3 pipe connection as I’ve got a spare 2 pipe one here

[VOLVOBOY]

Same deal with the TCV. You can put volts across it and hear if it clicks.
Don`t forget though, that the 2.5 engine has a quite low pressure turbo so it
will always pull like stink but be asthmatic at the top end.