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Redex dosage

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Old Apr 6th, 2009, 17:35   #11
rippedoffagain
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Quote:
Originally Posted by surrey_man View Post
25-30 sounds about right

I think am on 20-25 thou but then again am turbo and can be heavyly footed
My 30mpg was on a mostly motorway run so probably shocking round town. Mind, that said, I did have quite a lot of weight in the car at the time, and I wasn't exctly tootling along.
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Old Apr 6th, 2009, 17:41   #12
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yea now thats what i like about these cars they love the motor way

My 1lt AX costed as much to run on the motorway as my 2lt Turbo tank
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Old Apr 6th, 2009, 17:42   #13
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Mine is consistently 25-27 driving to work (an hour each way to cover 20 miles) so is constantly stop start traffic and a bit of dual carraigeway (at which point my heavy right foot comes out as I've been stuck in traffic for so long). 30-33 on a decent run.

Saying that though my exhaust is leaking badly, there's oil leaking into the dizzy cap, and I'm sure I can hear some air leaks..... so I could probably squeeze some more out of it!
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Old Apr 7th, 2009, 12:46   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rippedoffagain View Post
the correct dosage is one capful per gallon
Looks like this thread is pretty well wrapped up, but just thought I would add that Redex is a brand name not a product, so it depends which redex product you bought.

They do make a product/products that i have used which is a fuel system cleaner... Advanced or somesuch? It comes in a gold box and costs around the £20 mark. That product you do chuck in the whole bottle, and it tells you only to do it once in a blue moon.

The most common products though are the injector and fuel system cleaner which are a fair bit cheaper and come in red or green labled bottles (forget which is which), those I think you are supposed to chuck in a "shot" with every tank, hence why they now make the small one shot bottles.

Hope that helps, must say though, ive never had any noticable difference after using any of the products I have tried on various cars, at least performance wise.
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Old Apr 7th, 2009, 12:59   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tibbsey23 View Post
The most common products though are the injector and fuel system cleaner which are a fair bit cheaper and come in red or green labled bottles (forget which is which), those I think you are supposed to chuck in a "shot" with every tank, hence why they now make the small one shot bottles.
I got the red bottle (actually a clear bottle with red liquid in it). It was not the injector cleaner, it is the one that is supposed to clean all sorts. I chucked the whole bottle in without reading the directions, because I used to use STP injector cleaner which is always a full bottle to a tank (which I did about once per year on previous motors).

Anyway, so far she is still running well, and has burnt off about quarter a tank since I did it. Fingers crossed she'll be fine, but just to be on the safe side I'll dilute it a bit by topping up the fuel at the weekend.
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Old Apr 7th, 2009, 18:07   #16
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Hi All,

Just another point of view on the subject of fuel additives. After 40+ years of motoring, I'm afraid I wouldn't touch any of them.

Going back to the 1950's and 60's, Redex was originally marketed as an 'upper cylinder lubricant' and in this respect it had some merit - as an oil-based treatment flowing into the engine with the fuel it lubed the carburettor and inlet valves. But, even then, it did little more than that and reseach I read in the 1970's concluded that the clouds of exhaust smoke caused by injecting additive was purely and simply the additive burning off - no pre-existing deposits were shifted and the additive oil-base being burned probably added to the deposits already in the combustion chamber.

The modern additives are supposed to flush any gum out of the injectors and cylinders, but I'm not aware of any recent research evidence that they actully work. Any deposits in the injectors etc must originate from contaminants in the fuel and simply shoving more oil-based additive through isn't going to have much effect and might even add to the contamination.

Modern fuels are generally very clean (provided you buy the main named brands). I believe that, for keeping the engine clean, there is no substitute for using good quality fuel, regular and frequent oil changes using high quality oil, keeping the crankcase breather system clean, keeping the spark plugs in good condition and regularly changing the coolant - in other words, good maintenance. It also helps if the car gets a good motorway run at least every few weeks. As I understand it, putting any oil-based additive into the combustion chamber via the fuel is only ever going to produce more combustion products - ie, carbon gum.

Fuel and oil additives for cars are a bit like vitamin supplements for people - they are expensive and are good business for the manufacturers, but there is little evidence that they do any good and they might even do more harm than good.

Stan.
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Old Apr 10th, 2009, 12:37   #17
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Have a read here for the water torture method.

http://forums.turbobricks.com/showth...=water+torture
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Old Apr 10th, 2009, 22:35   #18
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Very interesting! And considering the car only cost £150 dont see I've got anything to lose by giving that a try!!

Where can you get Seafoam in UK though? Or is there an alternative? Have you tried it yourself?
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Old Apr 11th, 2009, 11:22   #19
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I ran it on one of the old engines in the 740 and it did seem to perk it up at the higher rpms'. I only used water where using both water and a carbon remover would of had a greater effect I think.
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Old Apr 11th, 2009, 11:45   #20
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In Australia I it was recommended to use `dry fuel`which helps to remove moisture in fuel which can lead to corrosion in injectors. I have not been able to find it here.
Due to the pattern of my car use, which is low mileage journeys and standing for up to 7 days, I believe using an injector cleaner is beneficial.
The additives release heavy metals such as molybdenum which can help to prolong engine, and ancillaries, life. In conversation with Professorial Engineers and Chemists at my University it is agreed that this will most likely be protective. When we analysed fuel samples we found significant quantities of aromatics, which are hydrocarbons, but very little or no evidence of any heavy metals which would help to negate engine wear.
With 362,000 miles on my engine I will be continuing it`s use.
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