940 heater control valves

[kiloran]

And just one more thing (I promise!)

The valve does not include the lock spring so you'll need to salvage that from your old valve. It slides in to the "leg" on the LHS of the valve and secures it into the adapter. Part number 1211599-4 according to the online parts catalogue.

[827Roverman]

Originally Posted by Ian21401

That engine bay pipe is what killed my original one. Previous to my ownership someone must have overtightened the hose clip causing the pipe to deform which allowed a leak. The valve itself was still leakproof. There is an image of my old valve somewhere, showing the deformed pipe, in one of my replies to heater valve posts.

That's exactly what happened to my original one, but I was lucky and managed to get a new one off a club member some time ago and got them swapped over, the deformed one we took off was only leaking from the deformed stubs, I did make a start on repairing it, by warming up the stubs and inserting a sleeving of 12mm copper, done one side but not got round to finishing it off, I will do one day even though I have just bought a new one.

[griston64]

You can still buy the Bowden clips new if you needed one

[827Roverman]

Originally Posted by griston64

You can still buy the Bowden clips new if you needed one

Gotta show my ignorance, what are they?

[griston64]

Originally Posted by 827Roverman

Gotta show my ignorance, what are they?

https://www.skandix.de/en/spare-part...clamp/1032723/

[Ian21401]

Originally Posted by griston64

https://www.skandix.de/en/spare-part...clamp/1032723/

I think that that “Bowden Clip” is what kiloran is calling the “lock spring” in post #21.
Is that so? It locks the Bowden cable outer to the valve bracket.

kiloran, by “adapter” do you mean the control housing into which the valve is located and which is secured to the bulkhead? If so, on mine, there are small (fragile) clips on the housing which clip onto the valve body.
Apologies if I am wrong.

[kiloran]

Originally Posted by Ian21401

I think that that “Bowden Clip” is what kiloran is calling the “lock spring” in post #21.
Is that so? It locks the Bowden cable outer to the valve bracket.

kiloran, by “adapter” do you mean the control housing into which the valve is located and which is secured to the bulkhead? If so, on mine, there are small (fragile) clips on the housing which clip onto the valve body.
Apologies if I am wrong.

Yep, the adapter is the plastic plate attached to the bulkhead. I might have misread the parts diagram, it looked like that clip was used to attach the valve to the housing but I've seen photos where the cable routes through it and it acts as the cable stop. I do love a good Bowden cable and adjuster, being a bike fettler.

[Ian21401]

Originally Posted by 827Roverman

Further to my previous post on the Heater Control Valves, I am pleased to say that mine has just landed via Parcelpost, I can confirm that they are for RHD cars, see attached photo's, The one on the left is for a LHD and the one on right is for RHD, so anyone wanting one, grab one while they are on offer. David

Forgot to add, the number embossed on the back of the valve is, 0 928 400 183

827Roverman,
The LHD valve on the left, is the black plastic operating lever straight and has it a nub/pin on the end.
The new valve on the right has a white operating lever which appears to be cranked (same as in the eBay image) with a hole on the end instead of a nub.
I commented upon this in post#14. My old RHD valve has a straight lever with a nub on the end. This may mean that the new style valve is not a direct replacement and some ingenuity will be required as the lever on the old style valve is not directly connected to the operating cable and is moved by a cam bearing on the nub, the cam being moved by a lever on the control housing. I will try to find my original description/how to from 2012 and post it here.

[kiloran]

Plastic lever on the new valve does indeed have a hole in it and it steps down from the pivot point like so: ---__

Range of rotation is approximately from 5 o'clock to 7 o'clock.

[kiloran]

The arm looks about half a cm shorter than the LHD valve in the original post, and on that valve the arm is indeed straight.
Practically I don't think it will matter as there will be enough flexibility in the presentation of the cable to the arm.