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Cannot open boot

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Old Jun 22nd, 2012, 23:40   #11
copperknob
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fold down rear seats climb into boot carefully pull off felt boot covering panel then remove bolts that hold on latch to lid also disconect multiplug from latch push boot lid up ,,i would then check nsr wiring in grommet for broken wires repair if broken then connect plug back up if not broken cdl gubbed
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Old Jun 22nd, 2012, 23:46   #12
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It's probably rusted shut,Volvo's aren't what they used to be.
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Old Jan 6th, 2014, 13:14   #13
JohnEdwards
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Smile Locked Boot Lid

I have just repaired the boot lid which was locked and could not be opened.

1. Lowered the back seats and crawled into the boot.
2. Removed lining - not easy but with care quite possible
3. Unscrewed 3 bolts retaining the lock; this allowed the lid to be opened a little.
4. Pulled out connector and disconnected wires enabling the boot to be opened completely.
5. Discovered a green/white wire which had broken; temporary repair enable the lock to work and be released.
6. Repaired wire and reassembled.

Took about 2 hours and reading the other blogs seems to have saved £600.

Chuffed
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Old Feb 4th, 2014, 19:22   #14
Trog thou Meatier
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I had the can't-open-the-damn-boot problem. I tracked it down to the release micro-switch & license plate illumination assembly. Seems some corrosion was causing current leakage which was enough to convince the control unit that the switch was permanently closed.

Before you crawl into the boot and start taking the door lining off I suggest you disconnect and then reconnect the harness connector under the parcel shelf. If the lock then opens then you probably have the same problem as me and you've saved yourself a cricked neck and a sore throat from cursing and yelling. Said from experience.

Props to eretron for posting the circuit diagram.
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Old Apr 7th, 2016, 07:18   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnEdwards View Post
I have just repaired the boot lid which was locked and could not be opened.

1. Lowered the back seats and crawled into the boot.
2. Removed lining - not easy but with care quite possible
3. Unscrewed 3 bolts retaining the lock; this allowed the lid to be opened a little.
4. Pulled out connector and disconnected wires enabling the boot to be opened completely.
5. Discovered a green/white wire which had broken; temporary repair enable the lock to work and be released.
6. Repaired wire and reassembled.

Took about 2 hours and reading the other blogs seems to have saved £600.

Chuffed
John, hope you're still an active member

I'm trying to fix my boot as of now. And Im stuck at stage 4. I have unscrewed the three bolts retaining the lock to the lid and of course also disconnected the connector going to the lock. But Ive tried, a lot, to get the lid open. As you say in stage 3, the lid opens up just a little. But how in the world do you get it fully open?
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Old Apr 7th, 2016, 12:13   #16
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Solved my problem by replacing the wiring harness!
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Old May 21st, 2016, 22:09   #17
GekkePrutser
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trog thou Meatier View Post
I had the can't-open-the-damn-boot problem. I tracked it down to the release micro-switch & license plate illumination assembly. Seems some corrosion was causing current leakage which was enough to convince the control unit that the switch was permanently closed.

Before you crawl into the boot and start taking the door lining off I suggest you disconnect and then reconnect the harness connector under the parcel shelf. If the lock then opens then you probably have the same problem as me and you've saved yourself a cricked neck and a sore throat from cursing and yelling. Said from experience.

Props to eretron for posting the circuit diagram.
Sorry for dragging up this topic (and hi, I'm new here Just got my first S40).

But I have the same issue with that microswitch. I already replaced the wiring harness (which, in fairness, needed doing anyway because the previous owner had done a poor bodge job on it).

It worked for a while but then it stopped again, and indeed it opens every time I unhook the cable for a second. I measured the contacts at the microswitch and indeed it is shorted out.

The problem I have now is: How do I get at the switch?? It seems to be completely glued in, as are the cables leading into it from the wiring harness connector. I don't see any way of getting in there without breaking the whole piece that holds the tailgate lighting and boot switch.

Just wondering if you found a way of getting that microswitch out (It looks like a part that costs a couple of quid at Farnell) before I go and order another expensive proprietary module
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Old May 21st, 2016, 22:15   #18
Clan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GekkePrutser View Post
Sorry for dragging up this topic (and hi, I'm new here Just got my first S40).

But I have the same issue with that microswitch. I already replaced the wiring harness (which, in fairness, needed doing anyway because the previous owner had done a poor bodge job on it).

It worked for a while but then it stopped again, and indeed it opens every time I unhook the cable for a second. I measured the contacts at the microswitch and indeed it is shorted out.

The problem I have now is: How do I get at the switch?? It seems to be completely glued in, as are the cables leading into it from the wiring harness connector. I don't see any way of getting in there without breaking the whole piece that holds the tailgate lighting and boot switch.

Just wondering if you found a way of getting that microswitch out (It looks like a part that costs a couple of quid at Farnell) before I go and order another expensive proprietary module
The microswitch is integrated with the number plate lights etc held with nuts within the boot lid once you take the lining off .
Don't bother Bodging it yourself , the number plate light holders corrode as well and the part is remarkable good value from the dealer , called a " Handle " on their parts list .
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Old May 21st, 2016, 22:23   #19
GekkePrutser
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Clan View Post
The microswitch is integrated with the number plate lights etc held with nuts within the boot lid once you take the lining off .
Don't bother Bodging it yourself , the number plate light holders corrode as well and the part is remarkable good value from the dealer , called a " Handle " on their parts list .
Thank you for your quick response, I'll contact the dealer! Indeed the number plate lights are in poor condition as well, I had to scrape the contacts clean to make one of them work
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Old Nov 13th, 2016, 17:59   #20
Vyga
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Default Boot not open

Hi any one can tell what can be I just replaced the wiring harness and lock mechanism
Light on number plate working and boot light on but lock not open i give live to lock and press open buton is open .when disconected wiring hsrness and check 6 pins 4 live 2is dead what can be
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